Carpenter help - baseboards

[bowfishin fool]

I have a somewhat simple question, but I’m not sure as to the proper technique.

I’m installing all new baseboards in my house. The boards I bought are 14’ long. But I have a few wall lengths that exceed 14’. What is the proper way to tackle said walls?

Im thinking I can butt two boards together but you will see a very obvious and imperfect joint. Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

I am also Considering mitering both pieces with complimentary angles and lapping them in a sense..


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[bsills]

90 degree cut will help them be less obvious. Nothing helps hide the joints better than caulk and new paint.

[Outbreaker]

90 degree cut will help them be less obvious. Nothing helps hide the joints better than caulk and new paint.

This is what we did when I worked as a trim carpenter in college.

Cut joints as tight as possible.

Measure 2x cut 1x.

[Charles]

Caulk is your friend.

Cut the joints at an angle like you mentioned. Plan the joint to be located in a less obvious location, like behind a piece of furniture.

[Texastaxi]

Mitering the joining ends is the proper way to do it.

[BigWes]

I have a somewhat simple question, but I’m not sure as to the proper technique.

I’m installing all new baseboards in my house. The boards I bought are 14’ long. But I have a few wall lengths that exceed 14’. What is the proper way to tackle said walls?

Im thinking I can butt two boards together but you will see a very obvious and imperfect joint. Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

I am also Considering mitering both pieces with complimentary angles and lapping them in a sense..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not a carpenter, but I've seen it done in a few high dollar homes. It seems that when the joints are mitered at complimentary angles, like you mentioned, that the joints are tighter than a 90 degree cut, maybe it's just an illusion, just seems tighter. Make the overlapping board point toward the closer corner. That will make it less visible also. Then caulking to cover any other visible joints.

[Quackerbox]

Mitering the joining ends is the proper way to do it.

Yep.

We replaced ours last spring. Wife came home with some fancy stuff thats like 6" tall. I cut them at 45s at the joints. IMO a quality saw helps and will need less caulk

[cbd10pt]

A professional painter will make either joint practically disappeared.

[Mudslinger]

45 degree cuts on both ends.

Just remember, "pookie and paint make a carpenter what he ain't!"

[Walker]

45 degree cuts on both ends.

Just remember, "pookie and paint make a carpenter what he ain't!"

I trimmed houses in my early days. 45° cuts is the way to do it.

[Bassdeer]

Scarf Joint, cut a 45, youtube is your friend if you need help.

[RWB]

as others have said mitter the butt joints so even if it shrinks you will not see a clear gap. One other thing I do which I am sure a real carpenter would not have to is I make my fist cut a little long then test fit and trim till its as tight as possible.

[Grulla]

45 degree cuts on both ends.

Just remember, "pookie and paint make a carpenter what he ain't!"

45 degree is the proper way .. caulk and putty are your buddy

[sweetinlow660]

This thread had used the most eloquent language I've ever heard used for construction talk. Basically just miter joint the ends of the trim pieces using 45 degree angles then caulk it or putty if it's stain grade

[Mjjust]

I always do a 22.5 degree miter. That way the joint is still “overlapped” yet less likely to push past each other when board swells or shrinks in length through normal cycles. Not as critical with mdf baseboard as real wood but all wood shrinks and swells some