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Old 11-28-2017, 01:46 PM   #51
LFD2037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowpro12 View Post
I wonder if you received mid-labeled 35mm rings
Would they have even tightened initially if they were 1mm too big?
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:14 PM   #52
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I think they would. I have the same scope on two different rifles, there is enough gap between the upper/lower mating surfaces to close 1mm.

I would be curious how much gap there is on yours between the mating surfaces (each side of scope).
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:06 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I’ve never lapped a set of rings and I have several rifles that shoot 1/4-1/2”.


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But what could it possibly hurt?
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:30 PM   #54
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Found the issue. The dang rings broke in half!!!! This is just insane. It appears it's a design flaw. The rail mount pushes into the bottom of the ring and causes an unexpected upward force that it appears the ring couldn't handle. I'm at a loss here.
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:32 PM   #55
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Well there's your problem alright!
Dang.
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:41 PM   #56
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Am I the only one that thinks this does NOT look like billet aluminum?
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:44 PM   #57
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Hard to say due to coating and angle of break. Those 40$ lightweights are looking pretty good now! At least you know what it is.


Sierracharlie out…
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:48 PM   #58
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I believe if they were billet then they would've bent not broke. I believe they are cast even though they tout them as billet.
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:56 PM   #59
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The only upside:
looking @ the ring marks from the paint that transferred onto the scope, it had full ring contact except for where the top & bottom of the rings mated. I'd estimate ~95% contact.
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:15 PM   #60
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That square corner on the side clamp pocket is a weak design, it provided a shear point for the ring. I would get your scope checked out as well, that may have bent the tube and may not be noticeable yet. The reason I say that is I doubt both mounts busted at the same time which could have put the scope in a bind. I would also tell Talley your scope may be damaged from the busted mounts.

Last edited by Radar; 11-28-2017 at 08:18 PM..
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:56 PM   #61
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Definitely not billet. I would not be happy about that at all.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:46 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFD2037 View Post
Found the issue. The dang rings broke in half!!!! This is just insane. It appears it's a design flaw. The rail mount pushes into the bottom of the ring and causes an unexpected upward force that it appears the ring couldn't handle. I'm at a loss here.
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I expect that Tally knew this was an issue which is why they were so eager to get replacements in the mail to you
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:49 PM   #63
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I know the broken rings were your problem, but. You said they screws were loctighted, and they were loose when you got it from the safe. Screws should have still been tight, even after scope was loose, even with blue loctite. If not, most likely oil or grease interfering. Correct this when you redo it. good luck.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:55 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by double bogey View Post
I know the broken rings were your problem, but. You said they screws were loctighted, and they were loose when you got it from the safe. Screws should have still been tight, even after scope was loose, even with blue loctite. If not, most likely oil or grease interfering. Correct this when you redo it. good luck.
You bring up a very valid point. They have never had oil, cleaner, rain, heat, nothing on them. The 2 reasons I can see for them to not be "locked" in @ 22 in/lbs. would be:
the loc-tight I used was 10+ years old (I don't know if it degrades over time)
I didn't get all the factory oil off the screws (I tried w/alcohol but ???)

***EDIT***
From Loctite:
"What is the Henkel shelf life policy for Loctite® products?
The shelf life period for Loctite® products is one year from
date of shipment from Henkel facilities or as indicated by
package labeling. For optimal storage, m
aintain product at a
temperature between 8°C (46°F) to 21°C (70°F). Storage
below 8°C (46°F) or greater than 28°C (82°F) can adversely
affect product properties."

Mine was ~10 years old & stored in my garage in the Texas heat/cold. It was probably trash.

Last edited by LFD2037; 11-28-2017 at 10:01 PM..
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:58 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bboswell View Post
I expect that Tally knew this was an issue which is why they were so eager to get replacements in the mail to you
Yeah, they were VERY eager. The first response I got back was:
"I don't know what happened. Give me your address & I'll send you out a new set today".
I hadn't proven anything w/a picture (yet), a receipt, where I bought them, how much I paid, how old they were or any other information other than they were no longer tight. Either it's the best CS in the business (hopefully) or they have an idea of the situation.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:06 AM   #66
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Is your torque driver off? Seems 22lbs would not break those rings.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:22 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFD2037 View Post
The only upside:
looking @ the ring marks from the paint that transferred onto the scope, it had full ring contact except for where the top & bottom of the rings mated. I'd estimate ~95% contact.
Can you explain your thinking a bit more?

I see pressure spots not even distribution.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:25 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFD2037 View Post
Found the issue. The dang rings broke in half!!!! This is just insane. It appears it's a design flaw. The rail mount pushes into the bottom of the ring and causes an unexpected upward force that it appears the ring couldn't handle. I'm at a loss here.
Wow.
Let us know how the warranty claim goes. Hopefully they’re not the kind of company that tries to weasel by pointing the finger.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:26 AM   #69
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Those look cast and not billet to me. I don't like that design at all. A deep notch like that with square corners is weak structurally.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:33 AM   #70
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Scope gremlins for sure. Seen it happen a million times.
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Old 11-29-2017, 05:56 PM   #71
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Sounds good, get yourself some new blue Loctite, use brake cleaner to clean everything before install. Break cleaner from auto zone is cheaper than gun products. Keep off of plastics or wood finishes though. Should be safe, but sucks to find out it wasn't. The blue (medium strength) allows you to remove the screws without heat. They actually make a purple for small screws, which is what I like to use on scope mounts, but blue is fine. Don't use red, you will need to use heat to remove the screws. Good luck

Edit to add: I would remove the base and redo those screw also.
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Old 11-30-2017, 09:59 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
Can you explain your thinking a bit more?

I see pressure spots not even distribution.
I had already tried wiping some of the "paint" off the scope. In person you can look @ the fine detail & see it was mated very well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
Wow.
Let us know how the warranty claim goes. Hopefully they’re not the kind of company that tries to weasel by pointing the finger.
It seemed to be going good but they haven't responded to my last 2 emails & I haven't received the new rings yet (day 3 of 2 day shipping).
Quote:
Originally Posted by double bogey View Post
Sounds good, get yourself some new blue Loctite, use brake cleaner to clean everything before install. Break cleaner from auto zone is cheaper than gun products. Keep off of plastics or wood finishes though. Should be safe, but sucks to find out it wasn't. The blue (medium strength) allows you to remove the screws without heat. They actually make a purple for small screws, which is what I like to use on scope mounts, but blue is fine. Don't use red, you will need to use heat to remove the screws. Good luck

Edit to add: I would remove the base and redo those screw also.
I will be removing the 20 MOA base & cleaning the screws & threads REAL good then use new blue loctite.
On a side note:
BLUE Loctite (242) now comes in a RED bottle!!! Not sure why but it does.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:52 AM   #73
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It's now been 7 days since they said they were mailing me new rings & since they replied to one of my emails. Their CS isn't looking so good anymore!
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:59 PM   #74
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I've never been a big talley fan. Not buying them at all now lol. Seekins and nightforce for me!!
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:10 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFD2037 View Post
It's now been 7 days since they said they were mailing me new rings & since they replied to one of my emails. Their CS isn't looking so good anymore!
Weird. They've always been above top notch for me.

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Old 12-04-2017, 03:22 PM   #76
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Love the Talley rings on my hunting rifles. I’ve never used their tactical rings. I use Seekins.


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Old 12-04-2017, 04:13 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFD2037 View Post
It's now been 7 days since they said they were mailing me new rings & since they replied to one of my emails. Their CS isn't looking so good anymore!
They have been very responsive via phone call for me.
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:40 PM   #78
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as far as Loctite it comes in varying bottle colors, the color of the actual locktite is the strength of it. As long as you shake it well locktite should be good for about 5 years.
As for the torqueing you can get any torque wrench calibrated I am not sure to cost. Also never tq something then back of then torque again unless a manual says so that is used for really high tq's
These comments are based on my 15 plus years of aviation mechanic experience working with tq's and locktite
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:39 PM   #79
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They replied to my email saying the person that said they'd mail me some last Monday didn't know the FDE ones were in metal finishing & not available. They are over-nighting me a black set & when the FDE's are finished they'll send me a set of those. They still haven't answered my questions I asked, though.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:01 PM   #80
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Looks like the compression lock on the lower ring also exerts pressure on the lower ring housing at the break point when mounted to your base. Just looking at them without the base they both look fine with the machined surfaces perfect, when on the base you can see the gap at the bottom and the more you tighten the screw more pressure against the ring....???
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:18 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger_Roger View Post
Looks like the compression lock on the lower ring also exerts pressure on the lower ring housing at the break point when mounted to your base. Just looking at them without the base they both look fine with the machined surfaces perfect, when on the base you can see the gap at the bottom and the more you tighten the screw more pressure against the ring....???
Kind of appears that way to me as well. It's a Talley 20moa rail.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:24 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I’ve never lapped a set of rings and I have several rifles that shoot 1/4-1/2”.
My boss drove his BMW for 50k miles without changing the oil and traded it in for a Land Rover.
I don't drive a beemer, but I still change my oil.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:31 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
My boss drove his BMW for 50k miles without changing the oil and traded it in for a Land Rover.

I don't drive a beemer, but I still change my oil.


I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with it, I just don’t do it and it has been fine with my rifles.


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Old 12-06-2017, 10:07 AM   #84
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I removed the rail, cleaned all bolts to remove any oil and reinstalled everything w/new Loctite 242. Torqued everything to Talley's spec's again, except I did the ring to rail nuts at 60 instead of their recommended 65 in./lbs. I'll give it 72+ hrs. to set up then take this rig out and see if the scope still functions properly. I'll post back with my findings and what Talley says about the broken FDE ones I'm sending back to them.

Last edited by LFD2037; 12-06-2017 at 10:11 AM..
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