Taxidermist Airbrush Stand

[HainesNYT]

A friend of mine asked me to throw together a stand that she could have multiple mounts on so she could do all her airbrushing at the same time. Well, I through nothing together and I tend to over-engineer. Open to advise and input, especially from any of the many taxis on here.

Basic plan...using oil field pipe...this, X 4


Base is a wheel from an old grader...fairly heavy and wide. 2 3/8 pipe as an upright with two, 2 7/8 sleeves. The top one is for the four mounts, all individually adjustable. The bottom one is for a place to put the airbrush and supplies....I could really use input (and pics) on this bottom shelf-thingy.

[HainesNYT]

I have asked her for specific information, like measurements...we are having a tough time communicating as I don't know exactly what she needs, and she doesn't know what I am capable of building for her.....if that makes sense??

I need to know what height range each mount should operate in? Like should the mount be adjustable from 3'-5'? Should I make two mounts operate in that range and two in the 3.5'-4.5' range? I think she is about 5.7'

[HainesNYT]

I case it wasn't clear :/ the 2 sleeves have zerks and are greaseable so they can be rotated.

Not sure I there is such a thing as too much adjustability, but it is sure hard to add it after it is done.

[HainesNYT]

I hope this gives a bit more perspective. The top horizontals come out 6", the bottoms, 5".

[HainesNYT]

[Texastaxi]

Here's mine.



The base is 48 X 48 and on casters.
44" from the floor to the heads.
It has 4 slots, and will swivel at the upright so you can spin it from head to head.
The resistance from the pipe in pipe is the perfect amount to keep it from going all loosey goosey when it turns.
The heads are the same ones that go in my regular mounting stand so I can move a wet mount from the mounting stand to the drying/finishing stand.

[HainesNYT]

Here's mine.
The base is 48 X 48 and on casters.
44" from the floor to the heads.
It has 4 slots, and will swivel at the upright so you can spin it from head to head.
The resistance from the pipe in pipe is the perfect amount to keep it from going all loosey goosey when it turns.
The heads are the same ones that go in my regular mounting stand so I can move a wet mount from the mounting stand to the drying/finishing stand.

Awesome, thanks for the input and photo. So each head/slot isn't vertically adjustable, do you ever find that to be a problem/ inconvenience? The universal heads for the different stands is brilliant!! Makes tons of sense.

What do you use for holding/hanging your airbrush (I have ZERO airbrush experience). Is there ANYTHING you would want to be able to keep close while painting...that I should add to the bottom sleeve/tray/shelf?

Again, thank you...I appreciate the professional input

[Texastaxi]

No, the heads don't adjust vertically. I've never had an issue with that.

My airbrush just sits on my workbench that's nearby with all my paints.

I have two mounting stands, that finishing stand, and 4 other sockets thar just mount to the wall, that all take the same head. I have 10 heads, as well as a few other attachments that will work on the stands. I don't unscrew a head until it's ready to go out the door.

I've also mounted my cape stretcher to the base of that stand. That's the red fingers and bottle jack that you see at the bottom.

[BO-N-ARO]

Nice design. How does it do with just one mount? Just be sure it is stable and will not fall over. The round base would make it easy to roll around.

[HainesNYT]

I have two mounting stands, that finishing stand, and 4 other sockets thar just mount to the wall, that all take the same head. I have 10 heads, as well as a few other attachments that will work on the stands. I don't unscrew a head until it's ready to go out the door.
.

I can see the universal heads being the way to go. I have repaired a few stands in the past and refurbished a several I bought at an auction (everybody thought they were poorly built engine stands). I will have to ensure I use all the same materials from here on out. Thank you!

[Texastaxi]

I can see the universal heads being the way to go. I have repaired a few stands in the past and refurbished a several I bought at an auction (everybody thought they were poorly built engine stands). I will have to ensure I use all the same materials from here on out. Thank you!

Mine are a bit overbuilt, but when I built the first one, I just used some pipe that my step-dad had in his scrap pile. It ended up being 1 1/2" and 2". So all the subsequent stands and sockets that I made were the same size.

1" and 1 1/2" will work just as well.

The first round, I used smallish bolts (with a short piece of pipe welded to it for a "T" handle), and a nut welded over a hole in the larger pipe.

I upgraded one of my mounting stands with some pieces that I designed and drew up; then Ol Thumper cut for me on his CNC plasma.

Here's some pictures of both.

[HainesNYT]

Nice design. How does it do with just one mount? Just be sure it is stable and will not fall over. The round base would make it easy to roll around.

That is a good question. The vertical pipe is welded to a horizontal pipe that is welded near the bottom of the wheel. A strategically placed sand bags, or two, would probably be more than adequate to counter a single heavy mount. I will keep an eye on that, thanks for the input.

[HainesNYT]

Mine are a bit overbuilt, but when I built the first one, I just used some pipe that my step-dad had in his scrap pile. It ended up being 1 1/2" and 2". So all the subsequent stands and sockets that I made were the same size.

1" and 1 1/2" will work just as well.

The first round, I used smallish bolts (with a short piece of pipe welded to it for a "T" handle), and a nut welded over a hole in the larger pipe.

I upgraded one of my mounting stands with some pieces that I designed and drew up; then Ol Thumper cut for me on his CNC plasma.

Here's some pictures of both.

AHHHH! I am glad you brought this up. This lady I know is a kind of dainty thing to begin with...I know she kept a "cheater-bar" handy for sliding over the bolt TEE so she could get them tight. Most of the commercial stands seems to be very thin-wall and the bolts were 5/16" or 3/8"...so the thin wall female pipes (heads) all seem to be crushed/dimpled. I figure that was too much PSI...so, I went to larger diameter bolts, 1/2" and now to 5/8". She complained about being able to get one of them tight now. I don't think the bolt should be able to "damage" the head it is tightening, and feel that it is simply a leverage issue. What are your thoughts on bolt diameter?

Thanks for the link. I love the ability to change angle!

[Texastaxi]

I think the ones I have now are 1/2". Yes, on the bought stands, they use some very light weight pipe. Hell, I wouldn't even call it pipe, it's tubing! I think going to a bigger bolt, and longer handle is just going to make a bigger dimple. You should build her some new heads, using some real pipe (I think mine are sch 40) and upgrade all her bolts to have longer handles. In that head that "improved" head, I can tighten any bolt with one hand, easily. I still haven't put any nice handles on those bolts though.

[HainesNYT]

I think the ones I have now are 1/2". Yes, on the bought stands, they use some very light weight pipe. Hell, I wouldn't even call it pipe, it's tubing! I think going to a bigger bolt, and longer handle is just going to make a bigger dimple. You should build her some new heads, using some real pipe (I think mine are sch 40) and upgrade all her bolts to have longer handles. In that head that "improved" head, I can tighten any bolt with one hand, easily. I still haven't put any nice handles on those bolts though.

Ok, roger that...I think i will stick with the 1/2" bolts then.

Cmon man, I think someone even offered to turn some pretty wood for your handles!!!