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Old 07-11-2018, 03:10 PM   #51
cj_sandman
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Originally Posted by txpitdog View Post
I called around separately from TrueCar offers, and I also quickly realized that anyone calling or walking in to a Honda dealership was offered the TrueCar price. Therefore, TrueCar wasnít anything special, but just another advertising method...and it certainly wasnít going to be the price I accepted.
I wasn't able to tell from your posts, but -- did you actually walk into any dealerships and talk to a live salesperson?
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Old 07-11-2018, 03:29 PM   #52
txpitdog
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I wasn't able to tell from your posts, but -- did you actually walk into any dealerships and talk to a live salesperson?

Three. One poor guy was new and couldnít find his own butt with two hands and a map, the second guy was your typical liar, and the third attempt quickly put us in front of the sales mgr who said he didnít need to sell the car that cheap yet.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:08 PM   #53
Maxlab
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It may not be close but call Gunn Honda in San Antonio and ask for Kieth Keller internet Manager.
They have a bunch of 2019 EX-L for $37,850
The Price You see is what you pay, They were the first dealer ship to start one simple price.
I worked for them about 20 years ago, they don’t play any games. You just pay the advertise price. They are a very high volume Honda Dealership 800-1000 units a month.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:48 PM   #54
BJ DUPLECHAIN
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Dang. I've accepted a new job and my commute is more than doubling. I am about to buy a civic within the month or so and leave the F150 parked in the shop. I've looked online, but haven't been to a dealership yet.
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:12 PM   #55
BlackoutRam2500
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For the people talking about % of profit and car dealerships don't forget that the dealerships get these cars on loan from the manufacturers. If they can't sell them they just send them back. And they also make the majority of their money off of service departments.

I think of it kind of like the movie theaters.... they don't make their money off of ticket sales. They make all their money off of the popcorn. Now that might have something to do with why Honda doesn't want to come off of their prices too much since the cars are supposed to be trouble free.
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:52 PM   #56
TxDispatcher
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I'm not even walking into a dealer to "deal" these days. I'll spend a few free moments in the afternoons after work on websites finding what I want. Then email the dealers who have what I'm interested in and do my "haggling" thru emails. I'll either have a deal I'm happy with and they'll start all of the paperwork before I even go in, or I won't buy from them.

We bought 2 vehicles last year and spent about an hour total in finance signing papers. I've talked to a few folks who have bought the same vehicles who didn't get anywhere near as good of deals that we did, most paid over $10k more (combined prices between the 2 vehicles) than we paid. I feel like we did pretty dang well and I didn't have to play the "let me go see if they'll go any lower" game for hours

A former boss of mine bought a used Ford from a Chevy dealer 7-8 years ago, haggled them down over the course of a week from the low 20's to $18k, and it came down to paperwork time. He stopped before signing and said "I noticed that there's only 1/4 tank of gas in the truck, y'all are gonna fill the tank up, correct?" The finance guy said that they weren't, and my boss stood up to walk out. The finance guy said "you're telling me that you're gonna walk on this deal over 15 gallons of gas?" My boss said "no, I'm telling you that you're going to let me walk over less than $50 for the tank of gas" as he walked out the door. The finance guy hollered for him to come back, and told the salesman to go fill the tank up I just don't have the patience for that, so I do all of my prep work/looking online and the deal thru emails...it's just easier these days
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:52 PM   #57
Maxlab
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Originally Posted by BlackoutRam2500 View Post
For the people talking about % of profit and car dealerships don't forget that the dealerships get these cars on loan from the manufacturers. If they can't sell them they just send them back. And they also make the majority of their money off of service departments.

I think of it kind of like the movie theaters.... they don't make their money off of ticket sales. They make all their money off of the popcorn. Now that might have something to do with why Honda doesn't want to come off of their prices too much since the cars are supposed to be trouble free.
Iím sorry but this is not true. Dealers start paying interest on these vehicles as soon as they hit Dealership itís part of there Floor Plan. They also donít send them back if they canít move them. They are stuck with them until itís sold.
They do make money with the Service Department, but make more on the Sales Floor. Even after the the vehicle is sold, they get a rebate check from the manufacturer called Hold Back. Hold Back can range from $600.00 to over $2500.00 depending on how much the vehicle cost. Add in the F&I where they make a ton of money on the interest rate plus all the other add onís they try to sell. It becomes very profitable. I know a few dealerships that actually will give up most of the Hold Back to move a unit at certain times of the year.
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:55 PM   #58
topduarte
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Buy American. Issue solved
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:58 PM   #59
Mike D
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Originally Posted by Fishndude View Post
Because youíd rather haggle with a used car guy???



Lmao!!


Donít be silly Jeff.

I usually buy from an individual OR I call up my buddy who owns a car buying service, tell him what vehicles and Iím interested in and what my budget is and then pick up the vehicle after he finds it, negotiates the price and reconditions it.

Easy peasy.


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Old 07-11-2018, 10:51 PM   #60
txpitdog
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Received an email this afternoon. Iím in striking distance. Last opportunity unapologetic offer to dealers that have em in stock tomorrow and then Iím buying. Nothing is guaranteed until the car is in my driveway, but Iíve got the deal where I want it.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:30 PM   #61
Big Ace
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Iím sorry but this is not true. Dealers start paying interest on these vehicles as soon as they hit Dealership itís part of there Floor Plan. They also donít send them back if they canít move them. They are stuck with them until itís sold.
They do make money with the Service Department, but make more on the Sales Floor. Even after the the vehicle is sold, they get a rebate check from the manufacturer called Hold Back. Hold Back can range from $600.00 to over $2500.00 depending on how much the vehicle cost. Add in the F&I where they make a ton of money on the interest rate plus all the other add onís they try to sell. It becomes very profitable. I know a few dealerships that actually will give up most of the Hold Back to move a unit at certain times of the year.
The ole front door and back door. This guy understands it. If you want the best deal on a vehicle be at the dealer at 5 pm on December 31. They will deal or pay the taxes on the inventory. $$$ for you.
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:23 AM   #62
Black Ice
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The ole front door and back door. This guy understands it. If you want the best deal on a vehicle be at the dealer at 5 pm on December 31. They will deal or pay the taxes on the inventory. $$$ for you.


Iíve heard the old last day of the month deal on my last two vehicles. It wasnít what I wanted but it was the best deal I found buying on the last day of the month.


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Old 07-13-2018, 12:25 AM   #63
txpitdog
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Success! Contacted the two dealerships that had the van in stock. Told both that I have a deal with a location that does not have it in stock but I will buy it today if they will match the price. One balked, so hung up with them. The other started with a BS line but then another salesman took over the phone and took the deal. Iíve also been looking for a new F150, and I guess the lady Iíve started talking with on that is sweethearts with the salesman that took my deal. They threw in the protection package as well. Was skeptical when I got there and had my game face on. No BS in sales....but then we got to finance. Who knows how many configurations and pricing options for the extended warranty and protection in case your head gets chopped off unexpectedly and your heirs canít make your note. 45 minutes of that silliness and responded with a ďno thank youĒ. Ok, on to ďbasic payment with no protection you poor ignorant foolĒ. Apparently the best my 806 credit score could muster was 1.5% over the rate Iíd already qualified for before I got there. Now weíre playing hardball. Finance guy flat out said the price of the vehicle was to the extent that they could not go lower than his offer.

Goodbye.

Youíre gonna get up and leave over a few dollars a month?

Yep, Iíll scour the interwebs tomorrow and get a really good deal lined up then come back.

How about I include the extended warranty and chopped off head protection?

Buh-bye

He claimed he couldnít go any lower than 1.0% less but then lowered the cost of the vehicle further to offset the remaining 0.5% higher interest rate. My out the door was less, but lifetime cost of the car after interest was the same as if I got the interest rate I wanted.

I am really curious what the actual bare bones ďNFW are we going any lowerĒ price is, but I think Iím within $300. I think I might have gotten a little more off, but I alienated dealerships to get to where we ended up, so I think I did good.

Huge learning experience on this deal, and Iíve gone from being nervous and without confidence to knowing exactly how this game works and looking forward to grinding out a great deal on my next truck.
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:40 AM   #64
Sunnylab
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I ALWAYS feel like I get ripped off when buying a vehicle. And I buy plenty.
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:45 AM   #65
WItoTX
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I had that same go round. Good work OP. Always feels good when you do your homework and see the fruits of it! It also becomes fun.

Good luck with the truck.
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Old 07-13-2018, 10:16 AM   #66
osochuck
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We get pre-approved through our credit union. This cuts out half of the car sales hassle. Donít let them run your credit multiple times, that drops the score.

Get your own financing.

Then we email for out the door price. In and out under 1-1/2hrs including test drive. Three vehicles like that. Works great.


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Old 07-19-2018, 09:46 AM   #67
Big Ace
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Originally Posted by txpitdog View Post
Success! Contacted the two dealerships that had the van in stock. Told both that I have a deal with a location that does not have it in stock but I will buy it today if they will match the price. One balked, so hung up with them. The other started with a BS line but then another salesman took over the phone and took the deal. I’ve also been looking for a new F150, and I guess the lady I’ve started talking with on that is sweethearts with the salesman that took my deal. They threw in the protection package as well. Was skeptical when I got there and had my game face on. No BS in sales....but then we got to finance. Who knows how many configurations and pricing options for the extended warranty and protection in case your head gets chopped off unexpectedly and your heirs can’t make your note. 45 minutes of that silliness and responded with a “no thank you”. Ok, on to “basic payment with no protection you poor ignorant fool”. Apparently the best my 806 credit score could muster was 1.5% over the rate I’d already qualified for before I got there. Now we’re playing hardball. Finance guy flat out said the price of the vehicle was to the extent that they could not go lower than his offer.

Goodbye.

You’re gonna get up and leave over a few dollars a month?

Yep, I’ll scour the interwebs tomorrow and get a really good deal lined up then come back.

How about I include the extended warranty and chopped off head protection?

Buh-bye

He claimed he couldn’t go any lower than 1.0% less but then lowered the cost of the vehicle further to offset the remaining 0.5% higher interest rate. My out the door was less, but lifetime cost of the car after interest was the same as if I got the interest rate I wanted.

I am really curious what the actual bare bones “NFW are we going any lower” price is, but I think I’m within $300. I think I might have gotten a little more off, but I alienated dealerships to get to where we ended up, so I think I did good.

Huge learning experience on this deal, and I’ve gone from being nervous and without confidence to knowing exactly how this game works and looking forward to grinding out a great deal on my next truck.
You should've asked him for his "BUY" rate was. That would've blown his mind. Not that he would've shown it to you. They get you qualified for a certain interest rate. Let's say 2% for 60 months. Then they get you to sign for 4% for 60 months. That 2% that he overcharges you goes to the dealership. Plus they get a kickback from the bank for using that bank.

It is best to be prequalified with your bank for a certain amount, interest rate, and loan term. Go to the dealer and get the best price. Don't be afraid to walk out a few times. I usually tell them, skip the bs and give me your best price. I will give you one shot. I always leave when they tell me the price. 9/10 call me within an hour. I tell them on the phone, I told you to give me the best price and that I would give you one shot. They always come up with some BS story and try again. Now that you have the price that you want. Don't let them know that you are preapproved. Don't let them add anything on in terms of dealer add ons. Tint, chip, vin etching, low jack, floor mats, bed liner etc. Go into the finance office and decline everything. Let them run your credit. Let them offer you a rate. Sometime they beat your rate. If not, pull out your preapproval paperwork and call the bank. Or if you really want to jack them up. Take their rate if it includes incentives such as $500-$1000 rebate. As soon as you leave the dealer make the first payment. Refinance with your bank the same day. Win/win for you.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:02 AM   #68
BitBackShot
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I can't expend that much effort trying to save a few hundred dollars.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:24 AM   #69
WItoTX
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Take their rate if it includes incentives such as $500-$1000 rebate. As soon as you leave the dealer make the first payment. Refinance with your bank the same day. Win/win for you.
The rebates using their financing usually have penalties for doing what you said. I just bought a car two months ago. I am required to keep the loan until December. After that, I will just pay it off.

It's sad when you have cash to buy a car, but its cheaper to jump through the hoops of financing it for a certain time to save $1500.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:57 AM   #70
Big Ace
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The rebates using their financing usually have penalties for doing what you said. I just bought a car two months ago. I am required to keep the loan until December. After that, I will just pay it off.

It's sad when you have cash to buy a car, but its cheaper to jump through the hoops of financing it for a certain time to save $1500.
Most of the time the dealer will tell you that it is mandatory to keep the loan x number of months. Read the fine print. No prepayment penalties are just that. I've had finance managers lie to my face several times saying this same thing. I look through all of the paperwork before I sign it. If I don't like something then I don't sign it. If there are prepayment penalties then I don't sign it. Ever.
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