Favorite Broadhead

[HDWRENCH]

Magnus. I just sent 5 back that had all killed several animals each. Hard to beat when they just send you new ones. Really good warranty.

Have an old Martin Hatfield TD 50 lbs and shoot magnus they work very well . Never tried much else as well if its not broken I see no reason to try and fix it

[Briar Friar]

My favorite broadhead is the one that flies well...and hecho en Los Estados Unidos.

I slayed a couple critters last year with the 175grain VPA three blade. I think theyd do you well. Ill use them again when I can tune back to them.

Good luck MIHunter.

[SwampRabbit]

Already answered in post 21. Didn't mean to start anything, just asking what broad heads you all like to shoot traditional style (since this is a trad category).

I just picked up a Sarrels Yukon longbow, 50#, and I'll be shooting carbons to start. I've shot a longbow before, I just upgraded (Thanks Bob!).

Hey bud.

Sorry about that. Just something that has been brewing. There is a history of some new folks getting some not so great equipment advice that has cost them some money and heartache in the past year or so... and I just couldn't let it go on this one.

There was nothing wrong with your question, and sorry that it blew up a tad. One of my first posts on the trad forum over 4 years ago about shooting off a shelf blew up into something about using binoculars at the stake at TBOT shoots, etc... I was obviously very confused as to why my simple question blew up... but there was something brewing beneath the surface and my genuine question flipped a switch for a discussion that needed to be had.

Again apologies.

My response about using a Simmons Tiger Shark actually wasn't directed at Gary/DRT. He has his own mind made up on what he is going to try. That recommendation was to you.

I started off using Stingers and quickly moved to Zwickey Deltas. About a year or so later, I actually learned how to properly sharpen a Zwickey! After that, I really wanted to switch to a head that didn't lose so much weight when sharpening them properly, so I finally went the route of the Simmons heads. There are plenty of folks on here that were using those heads and I was somewhat skeptical, but I gave them a try. Unlike some of the vented heads I had used before, these heads proved to be very tough. They also held a really good edge and I found a good way to sharpen them inexpensively in both time and money. I didn't really take a hard look at them to realize how big of a cutting diameter they have. they fly great and the widest part of the blade doesn't really have a lot of surface area for windage, which is why I think they do a decent job. With the critters I have hit, I have had a pretty good blood trail... even for what I'd consider very marginal (aka bad) shots.

Nothing wrong with Zwickeys and I still have a bunch that I'll have in my quiver for smaller things like raccoons and dillers, etc... but at 50#, I'd definitely recommend giving the simmons sharks a good look (I am running 48# at my draw.)

[clayree]

I've always been a Magnus fan. They have performed well for me.

[ballgame]

I'm guessing by flat, you mean that you orient your main blade horizontally rather than vertically.

I also do the same and mainly for flight reasons as well. I'm pretty sure the reason behind that is a concept called "tillering." If you have ever sailed a boat and used to tiller to move your transom to the left or right, you can see the effect that I'm referring to. When you finger release an arrow, that arrow is going to bend back and forth horizontally. It dampens down over time and eventually gets out of "whack" as the arrow starts to rotate... but the biggest forces come when you first release. Well if your blade is set vertically, that blade acts just like a tiller in water (but in air) and steers a lot more. If you orient your blade horizontally, you don't get that effect as the blade "cuts" through the air.

Back when I shot a compound, I had some tuning issues (essentially weak spine) that my broadheads would hit higher if I had them laying horizontally (on a compound/center shot with mechanical release, the arrow deflects up/down vs left/right on a finger release.) So I would orient my broadheads vertically to avoid the "tillering" effect.

that is correct. Main blade horizontal.

[ballgame]

I dont think a Rage would have killed this pig!

* Just having a little fun with the Drama....

[Flint knapper]

I love my Ribbtec 160 grains for my wood shafts!

[MIHunter]

Non worries all, I appreciate everyones input. I was just going to buy a pack of a couple different ones and see what flies best. I also appreciate everyones reasoning behind what they shoot. I think I'll get a pack of Landsharks, VGA & Magnus to start with!

Now the next question. Sharpening them blades? Best videos to watch, stones, etc? Lets see where this takes us??? LOL. Love TBH!!!!!

[SwampRabbit]

Non worries all, I appreciate everyones input. I was just going to buy a pack of a couple different ones and see what flies best. I also appreciate everyones reasoning behind what they shoot. I think I'll get a pack of Landsharks, VGA & Magnus to start with!

Now the next question. Sharpening them blades? Best videos to watch, stones, etc? Lets see where this takes us??? LOL. Love TBH!!!!!

For straight edge blades I was using a file and leather strop. Never did find a video that sharpens the way I was eventually taught (file parallel to edge).

Now that I switched to simmons sharks, which are concave, I use a RADA sharpener with a leather strop and they work really easy. Pretty much use the RADA for all knives now too

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[TJShockler]

I’ve shot buzzcuts ,cutthroats and vpas . My favorite head is these 3 blade 250 grain vpas . 52 pounds at my draw , 636 grain arrow and these heads haven’t given me any reason to switch . Good luck on your choice , lots of great heads out there


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[The Monk]

Ahhh controversy...I'm gonna go with the Larry H's Abowyer 200 gr this year when delivered,good match for my ACS CX and FMJs,... going back to the beveled heavy's...Boneheads were sold out..yikes ..they looked cool anyway...Until then , Grizzly's prior w real good luck, busts through shoulders and a pigs skull even... and tried the 3 blade Woodsman's too a few years back as well but..have some curled, bent, tips to show for it ,glancing off bones,n misses hitting rocks,look like elf shoes... but dropped a few critters,...killed a pig with a tiny little fixed 3 blade G5 last winter ,messin around,flew great, attached to a heavy carbon,didn't go far at all.. and have some discontinued BIG WIDE Scirrocos glued to some cedars ,look wicked,but have not killed anything with 'em.Facts are from my experiences ...Razor shavin' sharp , fixed blades, and delivered to your chosen location usually gets er done for me,....we're blessed with choices and opinions...hope your's drops em within site!!

[Draco]

I'm guessing by flat, you mean that you orient your main blade horizontally rather than vertically.

I also do the same and mainly for flight reasons as well. I'm pretty sure the reason behind that is a concept called "tillering." If you have ever sailed a boat and used to tiller to move your transom to the left or right, you can see the effect that I'm referring to. When you finger release an arrow, that arrow is going to bend back and forth horizontally. It dampens down over time and eventually gets out of "whack" as the arrow starts to rotate... but the biggest forces come when you first release. Well if your blade is set vertically, that blade acts just like a tiller in water (but in air) and steers a lot more. If you orient your blade horizontally, you don't get that effect as the blade "cuts" through the air.

Back when I shot a compound, I had some tuning issues (essentially weak spine) that my broadheads would hit higher if I had them laying horizontally (on a compound/center shot with mechanical release, the arrow deflects up/down vs left/right on a finger release.) So I would orient my broadheads vertically to avoid the "tillering" effect.

I shoot the Zwickey Deltas which is a pretty wide head, glued onto the 100 gr. steel inserts. While I've tried multiple heads over the last 55 years, I've stayed with them most and still shoot them now.

On orientation, I still do it the way I learned and which was pretty standard then. I orient them so the edge is angled to be in alignment with the corner of the shelf. The idea was that the arrow flexes up from the shelf and out from the side plate and this lets the blade slice through the air and not grab air to plane off. I doubt it makes any difference but it always made sense to me.