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#1 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgetown Texas
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Going to build a rifle blind and maybe a bow blind for a new lease. 5x7 or bigger. How high do y'all usually make the windows? And what dimension? Or is it best just to buy Deerview ones? Going to use 3/4" plywood for the floor and 3/8 or smaller for the walls and roof. Any tips you'd recommend or things you'd do differently after you built yours?
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#2 |
Four Point
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: San Antonio
Hunt In: Real County
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Carpet on the floors. (Plywood is too Loud)
At least (1) shelf Rifle/bow hanger Invest in a comfortable chair |
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#3 |
Ten Point
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Turlington,Tx
Hunt In: Freestone,Navarro,Llano
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Pressure treated wood for the floor, siding, and framing
Rubber mat for the floor 2x6 shelves below each window for rifle rest, height below windows depending on sand bags or rest used 2x4 Shelf about halfway down to set binos, range finder, drinks on. Hooks to keep hearing protection close Use Deerview windows and doors Drip edge over each window to divert rain |
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#4 |
Ten Point
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Tomball, Texas
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I made my window height based on the chair i was going to be using. Sat in the chair and used a tape to measure where I felt the most comfortable with a gun. I took the stand frame to the property and finished it there so it was easier to move and then moved it in place with the tractor. They get heavy quick.
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#5 |
Pope & Young
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Aledo
Hunt In: Shackleford Co.
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My old DIY blinds have windows that are only 8" wide by 12" tall. That is plenty big to shoot out of and it lets in less light. (I don't use mesh) I put some channel above and below with a slider to close. That being said, after buying a Krivoman I think Deerview windows are the way to go - I would use them for sure if I was building one. As far as height, the windows in most pop-ups start about 32" from the floor
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#6 |
Six Point
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Texas
Hunt In: South Texas
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Notches in the corners for your rifle and hooks to hold bino case/flashlights ect.
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#7 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Abilene, TX
Hunt In: Mismatched camo
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For a rifle blind, use 2x6s laid flat for the window sills, and put them flat at the same height all along the back wall. Then get another 2x6 cut to match the width of your blind so you can lay it on top of the window sill and back wall 2x6s for a gun rest. Wrap it with carpet. Add sand bags, and you have a bench rest to shoot off of. You can move the rest 2x6 around, wherever you need it in the blind. When it's time to get in and out of the blind, just pick the rest 2x6 up and lay it down or lean it up in the corner to get it out of the way. The 2x6 window sills may good shelves for binos and such too.
Carpet the floors for sure. Paint the interior black. Last edited by Shane; 11-10-2017 at 09:32 AM. |
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#8 |
Ten Point
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond/Sugar Land
Hunt In: Birds @ Eagle Lake. Elk, Pronghorn, Nigai, Carribou, Deer @ TX, CO, MO, WY, & Alaska. Bass TX & MO.
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I only enter box blinds every January to help my buddy fill the doe tags.
My priority list in order: 1. Commercial carpet on floor and walls up to the windows 2. Quiet office chair 3. Room to stand up 4. Shelves and hooks 5. Anti-silhouette netting |
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#9 |
Ten Point
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Montgomery, TX
Hunt In: Edwards Co
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No carpet. Once it gets wet it never dries and rots the floor. 3/8" plywood on the walls minimum.
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#10 |
Pope & Young
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Aledo
Hunt In: Shackleford Co.
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Here's what I like to do for the floor. At TSC you can buy 3/8" rubber mat by the foot off a 4 ft wide roll. Easy to custom cut for the blind's footprint. On top of that I put a cheap piece of carpet that is not screwed/glued down. It will inevitably get dirty from tracked-in grass and mud - when it does, you can just remove it and shake it out or replace it.
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#11 |
Four Point
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fulshear
Hunt In: Live Oak and Lavaca County
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I used spray insulation around all of the interior corners/joints. Helps to keep down any future drafts as the wood dries and prevents an unnecessary moisture from getting in as well.
If you build a door (and don't use a pre-fab, such as Deerview) then install an eye-hook on the inside and install a handle. Handle to pull it closed without catching a finger and an eye-hook to ensure it stays closed. Build your roof at an angle as well to help rain runoff. I built mine angled from back to front so I can stand up in the back of my blind when I get in and then a shorter ceiling has no impact once I'm seated. I extended my roof over the front of the blind to prevent run-off down the front and into my windows. Don't skimp on roofing material. I used old galvanized metal panels and they have been awesome. (And it makes for good nap music if it's raining) If you are concerned about reflective light on the inside, then I would paint the inside either black so light doesn't reflect off the light colored interior wood. (as previously mentioned) If you are building it on the ground give it legs (at least 6 inches) to contact with the moist ground. (Seems simple but have found it to be very effective) You can never have too many hooks, shelves, or gun rests. I put a simple coat hook on the back wall to hang my jacket if needed once I'm inside. The best part of DIY blinds is you get what you want. I have seen all kinds of things, but most important is to have fun. Looking forward to pictures as you progress! |
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#12 |
Ten Point
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Hunt In: Navarro County
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Agree with pressure treated wood, especially if you are sitting it on the ground. Here are a few pictures of the gun blinds we built. 4x8 but if I had to do it again it would be at least 5x8.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#13 |
Ten Point
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Hunt In: Navarro County
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Now here is the new bow blind I’m currently building. It is 6x7 because I wanted it really big in case my daughter wanted to join. Only one window that will accommodate a bow or crossbow.
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#14 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Paris Tx
Hunt In: Wilbarger county U.S.A.
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We have built several of various sizes. I have two favorites
8 foot across the back 4 foot sides 2 foot corners 4 foot across the front 7 foot tall. Room for 4-5 easy. Sliding windows. Carpet Cut out notches for guns Plenty of shelves Hooks for coats bios and bows Plenty of room to lay down and take a nap. Make wooded covers to put over windows during the off season. Keeps windows nice and wasp and bugs out. This is our old water tank that sprung a leak. Room for 5 Deer view windows Astro turf floor Last edited by Abcdj; 11-10-2017 at 11:31 AM. |
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#15 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Paris Tx
Hunt In: Wilbarger county U.S.A.
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Here's the tank blind in place. Just another oil tank by a pump jack in the middle of an oat patch.
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#16 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbus, Colorado County
Hunt In: Fayette, Colorado and Duval Counties
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Dang y’all build some heavy blinds
![]() I rip 2x4’s for the framing and after all’s finished, it’s still heavy. My windows are 39” from the floor. ![]() ![]() |
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#17 | |
Ten Point
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bulverde
Hunt In: McCulloch County
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#18 |
Ten Point
Join Date: Sep 2012
Hunt In: Sonroa, Comfort
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I would frame it out with galvanized metal and then add 1/2 treated plywood and then put R Panel for the roof will last forever. What most people spend on wood and overkill they could build a metal frame stand.
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#19 |
Ten Point
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: sanantonio tx
Hunt In: rocksprings tx
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No plywood, use smart siding
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#20 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgetown Texas
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Good info fellas. Thanks!!
Anybody built one you can take apart to transport? How did you do it and still seal up tight? |
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#21 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbus, Colorado County
Hunt In: Fayette, Colorado and Duval Counties
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Added shelves to my last blind under each window for my homemade sandbags. Lol
Sure helped in steadying the shot. ![]() Oh, and a urinal is a MUST! ![]() |
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#22 |
Six Point
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Deer Park TX
Hunt In: Marquez, Jewett Tx and Kansas
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#23 | |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgetown Texas
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What was your total cost to build? And how did you power it? |
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#24 |
Six Point
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Deer Park TX
Hunt In: Marquez, Jewett Tx and Kansas
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#25 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgetown Texas
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Nice!!
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#26 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Paris Tx
Hunt In: Wilbarger county U.S.A.
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#27 | |
Ten Point
![]() Join Date: May 2016
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#28 |
Ten Point
![]() Join Date: May 2016
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On another note I like making things that will last. If you use wood for an exterior I would suggest that you cover it with 30lb felt paper to keep the rain from getting to it.
This is a blind that I built 27 years ago that I just moved. It's still in good shape after all those years. Still the original paint on the felt paper, the box holds a 12V deep cycle battery and 25lb propane cylinder. ![]() |
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#29 |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Montgomery County
Hunt In: Where ever I can
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Tag
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#30 |
Pope & Young
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Wise Cty
Hunt In: Young Cty
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Put wheels under it....
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...d.php?t=270926 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#31 | |
Pope & Young
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Montgomery County
Hunt In: Where ever I can
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What doors and windows do you use? |
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#32 |
Nubbin' Buck
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Southeast Texas
Hunt In: South East Texas and the Texas Hill Country
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Thanks for all the information. I really like the urinal idea.
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#33 |
Spike
Join Date: Aug 2017
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Good advice
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