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Old 11-09-2017, 12:05 AM   #1
trophy8
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Default Blind build tips

Going to build a rifle blind and maybe a bow blind for a new lease. 5x7 or bigger. How high do y'all usually make the windows? And what dimension? Or is it best just to buy Deerview ones? Going to use 3/4" plywood for the floor and 3/8 or smaller for the walls and roof. Any tips you'd recommend or things you'd do differently after you built yours?
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:42 AM   #2
4xBuilder
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Carpet on the floors. (Plywood is too Loud)
At least (1) shelf
Rifle/bow hanger
Invest in a comfortable chair
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:09 AM   #3
gonehuntin
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Pressure treated wood for the floor, siding, and framing
Rubber mat for the floor
2x6 shelves below each window for rifle rest, height below windows depending on sand bags or rest used
2x4 Shelf about halfway down to set binos, range finder, drinks on.
Hooks to keep hearing protection close
Use Deerview windows and doors
Drip edge over each window to divert rain
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:16 AM   #4
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I made my window height based on the chair i was going to be using. Sat in the chair and used a tape to measure where I felt the most comfortable with a gun. I took the stand frame to the property and finished it there so it was easier to move and then moved it in place with the tractor. They get heavy quick.
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:26 AM   #5
jerp
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My old DIY blinds have windows that are only 8" wide by 12" tall. That is plenty big to shoot out of and it lets in less light. (I don't use mesh) I put some channel above and below with a slider to close. That being said, after buying a Krivoman I think Deerview windows are the way to go - I would use them for sure if I was building one. As far as height, the windows in most pop-ups start about 32" from the floor
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:27 AM   #6
Smith2001
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Notches in the corners for your rifle and hooks to hold bino case/flashlights ect.
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:29 AM   #7
Shane
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For a rifle blind, use 2x6s laid flat for the window sills, and put them flat at the same height all along the back wall. Then get another 2x6 cut to match the width of your blind so you can lay it on top of the window sill and back wall 2x6s for a gun rest. Wrap it with carpet. Add sand bags, and you have a bench rest to shoot off of. You can move the rest 2x6 around, wherever you need it in the blind. When it's time to get in and out of the blind, just pick the rest 2x6 up and lay it down or lean it up in the corner to get it out of the way. The 2x6 window sills may good shelves for binos and such too.

Carpet the floors for sure. Paint the interior black.

Last edited by Shane; 11-10-2017 at 10:32 AM..
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:36 AM   #8
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I only enter box blinds every January to help my buddy fill the doe tags.

My priority list in order:

1. Commercial carpet on floor and walls up to the windows
2. Quiet office chair
3. Room to stand up
4. Shelves and hooks
5. Anti-silhouette netting
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:04 AM   #9
kmitchl
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No carpet. Once it gets wet it never dries and rots the floor. 3/8" plywood on the walls minimum.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:33 AM   #10
jerp
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Here's what I like to do for the floor. At TSC you can buy 3/8" rubber mat by the foot off a 4 ft wide roll. Easy to custom cut for the blind's footprint. On top of that I put a cheap piece of carpet that is not screwed/glued down. It will inevitably get dirty from tracked-in grass and mud - when it does, you can just remove it and shake it out or replace it.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:55 AM   #11
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I used spray insulation around all of the interior corners/joints. Helps to keep down any future drafts as the wood dries and prevents an unnecessary moisture from getting in as well.
If you build a door (and don't use a pre-fab, such as Deerview) then install an eye-hook on the inside and install a handle. Handle to pull it closed without catching a finger and an eye-hook to ensure it stays closed.
Build your roof at an angle as well to help rain runoff. I built mine angled from back to front so I can stand up in the back of my blind when I get in and then a shorter ceiling has no impact once I'm seated. I extended my roof over the front of the blind to prevent run-off down the front and into my windows.
Don't skimp on roofing material. I used old galvanized metal panels and they have been awesome. (And it makes for good nap music if it's raining)
If you are concerned about reflective light on the inside, then I would paint the inside either black so light doesn't reflect off the light colored interior wood. (as previously mentioned)
If you are building it on the ground give it legs (at least 6 inches) to contact with the moist ground. (Seems simple but have found it to be very effective)
You can never have too many hooks, shelves, or gun rests. I put a simple coat hook on the back wall to hang my jacket if needed once I'm inside.

The best part of DIY blinds is you get what you want. I have seen all kinds of things, but most important is to have fun. Looking forward to pictures as you progress!
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:05 PM   #12
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Agree with pressure treated wood, especially if you are sitting it on the ground. Here are a few pictures of the gun blinds we built. 4x8 but if I had to do it again it would be at least 5x8.

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Old 11-10-2017, 12:07 PM   #13
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Now here is the new bow blind Iím currently building. It is 6x7 because I wanted it really big in case my daughter wanted to join. Only one window that will accommodate a bow or crossbow.

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Old 11-10-2017, 12:29 PM   #14
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We have built several of various sizes. I have two favorites
8 foot across the back
4 foot sides
2 foot corners
4 foot across the front
7 foot tall.
Room for 4-5 easy.
Sliding windows.
Carpet
Cut out notches for guns
Plenty of shelves
Hooks for coats bios and bows
Plenty of room to lay down and take a nap.
Make wooded covers to put over windows during the off season. Keeps windows nice and wasp and bugs out.

This is our old water tank that sprung a leak.
Room for 5
Deer view windows
Astro turf floor
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Last edited by Abcdj; 11-10-2017 at 12:31 PM..
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:35 PM   #15
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Here's the tank blind in place. Just another oil tank by a pump jack in the middle of an oat patch.
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:14 PM   #16
RobinHood
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Default Blind build tips

Dang yíall build some heavy blinds
I rip 2x4ís for the framing and after allís finished, itís still heavy.
My windows are 39Ē from the floor.



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Old 11-10-2017, 05:41 PM   #17
Dspivey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane View Post
For a rifle blind, use 2x6s laid flat for the window sills, and put them flat at the same height all along the back wall. Then get another 2x6 cut to match the width of your blind so you can lay it on top of the window sill and back wall 2x6s for a gun rest. Wrap it with carpet. Add sand bags, and you have a bench rest to shoot off of. You can move the rest 2x6 around, wherever you need it in the blind. When it's time to get in and out of the blind, just pick the rest 2x6 up and lay it down or lean it up in the corner to get it out of the way. The 2x6 window sills may good shelves for binos and such too.

Carpet the floors for sure. Paint the interior black.
Awesome idea. This will definitely help with the confidence for the little ones.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:15 PM   #18
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I would frame it out with galvanized metal and then add 1/2 treated plywood and then put R Panel for the roof will last forever. What most people spend on wood and overkill they could build a metal frame stand.
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:35 PM   #19
R.W.T
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No plywood, use smart siding
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:19 PM   #20
trophy8
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Good info fellas. Thanks!!

Anybody built one you can take apart to transport? How did you do it and still seal up tight?
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Old 11-11-2017, 09:19 AM   #21
RobinHood
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Added shelves to my last blind under each window for my homemade sandbags. Lol
Sure helped in steadying the shot.



Oh, and a urinal is a MUST!

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Old 11-11-2017, 04:53 PM   #22
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Default The last one I built

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...d.php?t=604803
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Old 11-12-2017, 05:47 AM   #23
trophy8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammerdown View Post
Holy crap. I like it haha.

What was your total cost to build? And how did you power it?
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Old 11-12-2017, 05:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trophy8 View Post
Holy crap. I like it haha.

What was your total cost to build? And how did you power it?
If I remember correctly I have right at a grand in it. The power system is just a deep cycle trolling motor battery, solar panel, and a couple 12v DC outlets and USB outlets.
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Old 11-12-2017, 05:51 AM   #25
trophy8
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Nice!!
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:25 AM   #26
Abcdj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trophy8 View Post
Good info fellas. Thanks!!

Anybody built one you can take apart to transport? How did you do it and still seal up tight?
The first picture of mine was built at home, tore down and reassembled.. It's a beast
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Old 11-12-2017, 10:03 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trophy8 View Post
Good info fellas. Thanks!!

Anybody built one you can take apart to transport? How did you do it and still seal up tight?
I have built several. These are all metal except the treated plywood floor. They breakdown into 4 walls, roof, floor, base/legs and stairs. Pictured is one my wife and I set up on a step hillside. I built the legs where they are adjustable to 2 ft for this purpose. Everything is screw or bolted in the field.







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Old 11-12-2017, 10:17 AM   #28
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On another note I like making things that will last. If you use wood for an exterior I would suggest that you cover it with 30lb felt paper to keep the rain from getting to it.

This is a blind that I built 27 years ago that I just moved. It's still in good shape after all those years. Still the original paint on the felt paper, the box holds a 12V deep cycle battery and 25lb propane cylinder.

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Old 11-12-2017, 06:14 PM   #29
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Tag
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Old 11-12-2017, 08:46 PM   #30
Dale Moser
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Put wheels under it....
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...d.php?t=270926


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Old 11-12-2017, 09:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sendit View Post
I have built several. These are all metal except the treated plywood floor. They breakdown into 4 walls, roof, floor, base/legs and stairs. Pictured is one my wife and I set up on a step hillside. I built the legs where they are adjustable to 2 ft for this purpose. Everything is screw or bolted in the field.

















What doors and windows do you use?
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