bare shaft tuning help

[LeanMachine]

I've always paper tuned previously but have been convinced that bare shaft tuning is superior. I educated myself on the bowmaker website. Great info.

My question is do his instructions apply to shooting canted or not? I'm shooting at 58# recurve, 28" draw, full length goldtip 3555s, and 125 up front. My fletched shafts are hitting the mark at 20 yards and seem to be flying well. It does seem like sometimes i see the nock end kicking up though. Bare shafts group well but hit about 8-10 inches low of fletched shafts at 20 yards. I am shooting with a typical cant. So what does this tell me? I guess my biggest question is do my adjustments need to take into consideration the fact that i shoot with a cant. Is 8 inches low, really 8 inches low and 4 inches right? Know what i mean?

[agtex42]

You can definitely bareshaft tune with a cant in your bow!

I've tuned this way with both styles of shooting (straight up and canted) and have found that it's critical to cant to the same angle every time to avoid false indications during the tuning process.

I've had the best results by just tuning to what the groups indicate rather than worrying about multi-axis corrections with a canted bow. You should be right on the money after moving your nockset down just a hair.

[Ron]

I bare shaft tune with a cant all the time. I want to tune the way that I would normally shoot.

I agree that you might need to move your nok down a little

[huntinpool]

Shouldn't effect much by canting.

[LeanMachine]

Ok thanks guys.

[RickBarbee]

I don't know if this will make sense or not. It does to me.

Regardless of CANT:

1 - Always think of your nock set in a 90 degree relation to the shelf.
2 - Always think of your arrow spine in a 90 degree relation to the strike plate.

Example as shown in picture.

Hope that helps.

Rick

[ShaBow]

I'm thinking your arrows are weak(just by your draw length and weight)) if you are drawing the full 58#'s!How do your BH's fly?

[RickBarbee]

I'm thinking your arrows are weak

I agree

Rick

[caughtandhobble]

I'm thinking your arrows are weak(just by your draw length and weight)) if you are drawing the full 58#'s!How do your BH's fly?

x3

[ShaBow]

I'm thinkin you are probably gonna have to start with a 400 spine(with those GT's its 5575) full length arrow and play with length, tip weight,and BH!But since you already have those I'd start cutting ONE of them down(or 2 one bareshaft and one fletched is how I do it) and see how it acted until It was as short as it could go for your draw.Then if that's not it go to the full length 5575 or 400 spine arrow!

[LeanMachine]

I havent had a chance to get back to this thread. I agree that i should probably be shooting a 5575. I shot them for years and I switched to 3555s at some point because they were visibly flying better for me. I was digging around to see if i still had one lying around to shoot but all my 5575s where broken.

How do the 3555s fly with broadheads? I have not shot them since last season. I paper tuned them to bullet holes last year (cant pull it off now) and broadheads where flying well. I took a pig and a buck with them last season.

Rick, that's EXCACTLY what i was thinking. Thanks for confirming. I wasn't able to find any other info confirming my theory.

Thanks for the info and ideas guys. This bare shafting business is all new to me.

[Wayne Meuir]

Couple of suggestions:
Do you know HOW you are canting the bow and if you are torguing the string or not?
Here's how to find out, courtesy of the Rod Jenkins class I just attended:
Make a big loop out of a string. It has to be long enough to hook between your thumb and forefinger of your bow hand and then grasp the other end of the loop with your tab/glove as you do your bowstring. Hold your bow arm up in your normal shooting position including the degree of cant that you normally shoot. Now pull the other end of the loop back and anchor it the same as you do your bowstring. String needs to be short enough at this point to be taught. Now, without moving your head, look down at the string and see if both sides of the loop line up with each other directly under your eye. If they are crossed, you are torquing the string. Almost everyone in the Rod Jenkins class was torquing the string.
According to Rod, the correct way to cant the bow is to shoot it the same as you would if you were shooting it perfectly vertical and bend at the waist to get the cant that you want. That way you do not change the relationship of your eye to the string/bow/target.
I think what a lot of people do is hold there head vertical and anchor on their face in a normal fashion and then cant the bow to the right (right handed shooters) in order to get the upper limb out of the way and open up the visablilty of the target but they wind up torquing the string.

[LeanMachine]

I performed the test. I find that the ticket is in matching the angle of the head to the amount you cant. When i first draw back, the strings are crossed. But as i drop my head into shooting position (how G. Fred Asbell recommends), it matches the angle of my cant and the strings line up.