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    Tuning

    Hoyt crx 32
    Dl- 28"
    Lbs- around 55 ish
    Arrows - 27" fmj 400 spine
    100 grain heads.

    Started with a French tune- split the string.
    Then went to bare shaft tune- adjusted knocking point/ rest. Arrows were showing weak so reduced poundage. Arrows continued to show weak ( about 4-5 inches right of fp)
    Decided to check broad heads.
    Top 2 are the fp- bottom 2 broad heads.
    I used 2 different heads that I would be using this year. Magnus buzz cut and the Magnus stinger.

    Would you call this good or should I keep on tweaking? Are my arrows still weak even though I'm getting close to same impact points with fletched and broad heads?

    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    #2
    How far was the shot?

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      #3
      This is at 20

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        #4
        I'll go out and shoot it at 30 here in a bit

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          #5
          First, I would lower your nocking point ever so slightly to get them hitting the same level. The fact that your BHs are hitting left gives the impression of either the rest being a bit off or the spine being too stiff. Try increasing draw weight slightly to see if that corrects you left to right. If that doesn't work, try moving your rest to the right in small increments

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            #6
            There's my confusion- bare shafts were hitting several inches right indicating a weak shaft. Broad heads hitting less than an inch left.

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              #7
              I'd move the rest a hair then.

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                #8
                ok at 30 they show weak again and a bit low. i raised the rest and moved it out from the bow a little. ill shoot again in a bit. tough with this heat, can only shoot a couple groups at a time before i am drenched and need to come in and cool down.

                hoping to get this squared away today so i can fine tune my sights.

                Comment


                  #9
                  A stiff shaft can show weak when bareshaft tuning. Using a bareshaft after you've set center shot should be done with the yokes. This is a very tedious tuning method things have to be perfect form especially.

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                    #10
                    Check for cam leaning and timing issues on the cams

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                      #11
                      My groups are getting worse as the day goes on. First time to shoot at 30 this year. After a couple adjustments I think I'm getting closer.

                      Broad head and field point in line ( left 2 arrows) broad head and field point touching ( right 2 arrows)
                      Click image for larger version

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                        #12
                        One twist in the right yoke and one out of the left will put them together

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by hoyt21 View Post
                          One twist in the right yoke and one out of the left will put them together
                          i do not own a press. was trying to avoid taking it in. may need to though. I've always been able to shoot arrows touching or within an inch out to 40 yards. for some reason haven't been able to do that with this bow. either something is off (me or the bow) or it just doesn't like me. i put a kisser on. anchor feels consistent.

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                            #14
                            Bare shaft is not an easy thing. Your grip has to be good and constant. Your draw lenth has to be right.

                            When bare shaft tuning you need a press. No way around it. There are things you have to set up. Cams in sync. Cam timing. And yes this is two different things. Then Set level knoc to start with. Set center shot. Once this is done then you need two to three fletch arrows and two to three bare shafts. You need to and weight on the knoc end of shafts to match weight of fletchings. Then do your sight shot at three feet. To split string. Once done I shoot all the fletch and bares to make sure all same

                            Then go shoot all arrows at 20 yards and get back with us

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by enewman View Post
                              Bare shaft is not an easy thing. Your grip has to be good and constant. Your draw lenth has to be right.

                              When bare shaft tuning you need a press. No way around it. There are things you have to set up. Cams in sync. Cam timing. And yes this is two different things. Then Set level knoc to start with. Set center shot. Once this is done then you need two to three fletch arrows and two to three bare shafts. You need to and weight on the knoc end of shafts to match weight of fletchings. Then do your sight shot at three feet. To split string. Once done I shoot all the fletch and bares to make sure all same

                              Then go shoot all arrows at 20 yards and get back with us

                              i just drew back in front of the mirror. the bottom cam stop goes against the string/cable, and the top stop never touches. its maybe 1/2 off. gonna head to the shop.

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