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Old 05-25-2017, 06:55 PM   #1
DaveC
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Default FORD 6.7 DIESEL PSA - Intercooler pipe failure

I'm sure this topic is old news for some of ya, but for those in the blind-


The plastic Cold side intercooler pipe going up to the turbo has a tendency to fail when it gets old and brittle from the engine heat.


Mine let go two weeks ago at 103,000 miles while towing my fifth wheel through the Kerrville hills. I heard the noise then the truck downshifted through the gears to first.


I was luckily 2 miles from the rest area and able to limp in there via a duct tape band aid job.


Once there I dropped the trailer and limped it back to the ford dealer in Kerrville and was able to buy the part for $169.
(its $110ish on ebay)


They told me they keep seven or so in stock since they sell quite a few of them.


I slapped it on in under 15 minutes and was back on the road (just the necessary part, not the full 2' section they sell you as one unit- the bolt on intercooler portion was to hard to get to without more extensions- I'll replace that section later)



I know personally of one other person this has happened to under a load and there is a thread on powerstroke.org asking "where you were when your intercooler pipe failed"- so this is a somewhat common occurrence.


My PSA is this- if your 6.7 ford is at ~100k+ on mileage and you plan on loading it down anytime soon you might consider replacing this part

pre-failure or at least have a better understanding of what the noise you heard under the hood was when it goes "Poof" and walks your gears down to first.


There are aftermarket metal jobs out there for $350-500, or you could just replace the factory one for ~$110 when it gets some age on it (if you aren't buying it through the dealer ) .


Luckily mine failed on a Weekday, if not I'd have been stuck or had to pull some more redneck ingenuity out of the hat. I read of one guy who patched his with a rubber hose and has you to replace it months later.


Oh and BTW, this was the first issue with this truck ever- never been in the shop for any repair besides one Co sensor that was replaced under warranty and the somewhat mandatory periodic coolant checks.

I have replaced the worn out body bushings and shocks myself.

Here are the pics to show you what I'm referring to-

Broken Piece-



The zip tie is not OEM.



Where it is under the hood-


Last edited by DaveC; 05-25-2017 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:23 PM   #2
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Thanks for the info! I have 87k on my 6.7l, may come in handy.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:39 PM   #3
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I had it replaced w/ the full metal job when i did my delete...glad I made it without this failure! Good PSA though...might save someone some real trouble.

I do know a few guys that have actually put the replacement in their toolbox for when it happens. It's not if, it's when with this.


JWB '04
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:50 PM   #4
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I'm not. To mechanically inclined when it comes to motors, is this pretty easy DIY ? I have a '14 with 100k

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Old 05-25-2017, 07:51 PM   #5
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I'll need this sooner or later. '13 with 50k
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonA View Post
I'm not. To mechanically inclined when it comes to motors, is this pretty easy DIY ? I have a '14 with 100k
Very easy.

The factory model uses some sort of spring tension clip you can see in the installed picture.

To replace one that didn't blow off for you, you would pull up on or disengage this clip then unbolt the clamp you can barely see in the third pic, left hand corner. Replace with new and rebolt- tightly- the inside to next piece it clamps to has a metal collar inside so torque down on this pretty good or it will come apart here next (according to the parts jockey at the ford dealer).

The full length piece is a lot longer, one more section of pipe past this first connection- but not the section that fails, so replacing it is not as crucial.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
Very easy.

The factory model uses some sort of spring tension clip you can see in the installed picture.

To replace one that didn't blow off for you, you would pull up on or disengage this clip then unbolt the clamp you can barely see in the third pic, left hand corner. Replace with new and rebolt- tightly- the inside to next piece it clamps to has a metal collar inside so torque down on this pretty good or it will come apart here next (according to the parts jockey at the ford dealer).

The full length piece is a lot longer, one more section of pipe past this first connection- but not the section that fails, so replacing it is not as crucial.

Thanks
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:42 PM   #8
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I have had this happen to me twice on my 2011. I'm contemplating putting a large hose clamp on it to help reduce some of the stress. Totally aggravating. Between this and the dadgum sensors in the exhaust.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargus View Post
I have had this happen to me twice on my 2011. I'm contemplating putting a large hose clamp on it to help reduce some of the stress. Totally aggravating. Between this and the dadgum sensors in the exhaust.
Twice , the hose clamp does sound like a good Idea.

My exhaust sensors have been a non issue since 92,000 miles .

Last edited by DaveC; 05-25-2017 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 05-25-2017, 10:14 PM   #10
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Great info! I'm at 97K on my 15 and pull regularly so I will do this as PM
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Old 05-25-2017, 10:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
Twice , the hose clamp does sound like a good Idea.

My exhaust sensors have been a non issue since 92,000 miles .
Yea, it's frustrating. The Ford house used to sell just the broken short piece, but now only sell the entire assembly. I would like to hear more about the metal replacement. A part number would be fantastic!

Yea, the sensors became a non-issue after the $55 part left me in limp mode on more than one occasion. I couldn't risk it leaving me stranded with a load.
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Old 05-25-2017, 10:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargus View Post
Yea, it's frustrating. The Ford house used to sell just the broken short piece, but now only sell the entire assembly. I would like to hear more about the metal replacement. A part number would be fantastic!

Yea, the sensors became a non-issue after the $55 part left me in limp mode on more than one occasion. I couldn't risk it leaving me stranded with a load.
Here's a quick google search result-

http://www.xtremediesel.com/intercooler-upgrades.aspx

Lots of good reading on the product descriptions, some require a tuner, others don't.
pick up hp & torque do to better airflow.....hmm

Last edited by DaveC; 05-25-2017 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 05-25-2017, 10:40 PM   #13
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Great info. Thanks for sharing. I've got 143k on mine
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Old 05-25-2017, 10:45 PM   #14
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Mine failed at 50k miles.... p.o.s. part
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Old 05-25-2017, 11:01 PM   #15
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Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit For 2011-2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel 6.7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLF23W..._qM6jzb1RHBKA0

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Old 05-26-2017, 12:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by systemnt View Post
Cold Side Intercooler Pipe Upgrade Kit For 2011-2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel 6.7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLF23W..._qM6jzb1RHBKA0

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Just now trying to grasp all of this- the link you posted would still utilize the stock throttle body plate (butterfly valve in housing between turbo and intercooler).

I've seen some pics online of people cleaning theirs when the connecting pipe blows and they are covered in soot. Even from EGR deleted trucks.

The kits that replace the butterfly valve connection bolt up instead of sliding on and are running ~$100-150 more than the ones that use the stock mount onto the throttle body.
The ones being sold to replace the throttle body say tuning is required to bypass the throttle body.
Easy enough- maybe. Is a regular tuner that deleted the DPF and EGR already no longer utilizing the throttle body plate?

something like this one-
https://www.amazon.com/Intercooler-U...D8K280Q66B3JYK

I'm liking this one-
http://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-6-7l...ade-XD229.aspx
they are also running 10% off for memorial day so once I find out about the tuner I might be on the hook.

Last edited by DaveC; 05-26-2017 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:46 AM   #17
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Good to know. Going to have my BIL order me one today so I can keep it in the toolbox. I am at 150K on my 2012 with no issues at all with the truck so far.
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:08 AM   #18
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Thanks for the info, haven't heard of this yet.
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:18 AM   #19
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Thanks for the heads up! Just cracked 100k on my 12 without a problem so far.
REALLY want to get it deleted but not sure which way to go.
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:23 AM   #20
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Im good, thanks though. Got me a roll of duct tape in the tool box
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:40 AM   #21
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Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 05-26-2017, 08:04 AM   #22
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looks like the plastic coolant line y fitting on the 6.7 cummins. why they make these parts out of plastic is beyond me. I replaced mine with an aftermarket billet aluminum
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Old 05-26-2017, 09:52 AM   #23
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Happened to me on my '13 about a month ago at 115k miles. Pulled into a little shop in Moulton, TX at about 8:30am and they were able to get the part and have me back on the road after lunch. Haven't done so yet but I will probably buy a spare just to keep in the tool box if it happens again. About everyone I know that owns a 6.7 has had it happen, which I figured out after it happened to me.
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Old 05-26-2017, 01:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Sweet View Post
Im good, thanks though. Got me a roll of duct tape in the tool box


The roll of duct tape might work if it blows on the pipe itself, but where mine blew I couldn't get a complete pass around the collar so it would pop back off if I sped up too much. Made a nice growl with it off.
It stayed on while driving 35 on the hazard lane of I-10, once I hit Kerrville traffic it kept popping off. I'm guessing there is back pressure on the pipe when shifting gears / boost is fluctuating.


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Old 05-26-2017, 03:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
The roll of duct tape might work if it blows on the pipe itself, but where mine blew I couldn't get a complete pass around the collar so it would pop back off if I sped up too much. Made a nice growl with it off.
It stayed on while driving 35 on the hazard lane of I-10, once I hit Kerrville traffic it kept popping off. I'm guessing there is back pressure on the pipe when shifting gears / boost is fluctuating.


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I was just kidding about the duct tape. Id rather have it resolved before getting to that point.


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Old 05-26-2017, 03:34 PM   #26
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Got me paranoid now, at 115k on my 2011, afraid to look. Guess I better either get a spare or have a metal one put on. Wife says I am going to be buried in the truck, lol. Hope it lasts a longgggg time. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MySRT8U View Post
looks like the plastic coolant line y fitting on the 6.7 cummins. why they make these parts out of plastic is beyond me. I replaced mine with an aftermarket billet aluminum


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This is mine, on a '03 F350..6.0.

It broke, at 12,000 ft. Elevation, going up Boreas Pass into Breck, CO.

Dumped all my coolant, cost 450.$ " with my Volunteer Firefighter discount " to get wreckered down the mountain.

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What a pain in the arse that was. Had to drive 150 miles round trip to Silverthorne to get the parts.

I had a good support staff. Thank you to Jefferson-Como Vol. Fire Department.

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Old 05-28-2017, 10:13 AM   #28
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I need to do this when i delete i guess

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Old 05-28-2017, 12:28 PM   #29
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I just replaced mine this morning because of this thread. I bought the one from amazon. Not to hard except the clamps they provide are a little to small to make it easy.
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Old 05-28-2017, 03:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloodtrailer28 View Post
Thanks for the heads up! Just cracked 100k on my 12 without a problem so far.

REALLY want to get it deleted but not sure which way to go.


Go Spartan! Spartan Phalanx
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:39 PM   #31
DaveC
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Default FORD 6.7 DIESEL PSA - Intercooler pipe failure

Well guys I just finished installing the XDP aftermarket pipe.




I'll admit it was more of a PIA than it should have been.
The path the directions said to go didn't work out, I had to find my own way.

That being said, the factory new pipe with a couple hundred miles on it that started this thread will be up for sale after I put a few trips on this set-up to prove it works.
If anyone wants to buy it for a back- up for theirs.
I'll post it in the classifieds later or pm me now if you want first dibs.


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Old 06-06-2017, 03:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
Well guys I just finished installing the XDP aftermarket pipe.


I'll admit it was more of a PIA than it should have been.
The path the directions said to go didn't work out, I had to find my own way.

That being said, the factory new pipe with a couple hundred miles on it that started this thread will be up for sale after I put a few trips on this set-up to prove it works.
If anyone wants to buy it for a back- up for theirs.
I'll post it in the classifieds later or pm me now if you want first dibs.


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It looks like a giant PITA to do. Did it actually require any tuning?
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WItoTX View Post
It looks like a giant PITA to do. Did it actually require any tuning?


Yes, this model does, but my H&S is already taking care of that part.


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Old 06-06-2017, 04:33 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
Yes, this model does, but my H&S is already taking care of that part.


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Gotcha. I got an H&S too. Good to know its as simple as just installing then.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:30 AM   #35
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Used new pipe now for sale if anyone wants a back-up for 1/2 price-

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...0#post12513410
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Old 06-18-2017, 02:13 PM   #36
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Good Info

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Old 06-18-2017, 07:40 PM   #37
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This is good to know. Thanks for the heads up!

Can you do this with basic tools?
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:48 PM   #38
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Was riding in buddy's 2011 Power Stroke...heard the pop, knew exactly what it was. Being that we were on our way to Matagorda late on Thursday afternoon, we limped to Loves, grabbed some Gorilla tape, wrapped the crap outta it, and rolled. Worked until our way back, which unfortunately got us back to Sugarland and started giving problems. It was 10 o'clock so a long wait on a tow truck and an Uber ride back to Tomball got me home around 2 in the morning. Moral of the story...either get the conversion kit or carry a spare!!!


JWB '04
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:57 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar_HOYT View Post
This is good to know. Thanks for the heads up!

Can you do this with basic tools?


If by THIS you mean replace the broken factory piece with a factory replacement then yes, a screwdriver or needle nose pliers to pull the clip and an open end wrench or deep well socket to loosen and tighten the clamp.

If by THIS you are referring to a full replacement, then the same as above plus some extensions for a deep well socket some more wrenches and maybe the right sized Allen wrench depending on what replacement you go with.

All still basic tools, depending on how well equipped your tool box is.

My full replacement install involved my left forearm cleaning dirt from my engine I didn't know was on it. I came away quite filthy.


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Old 06-24-2017, 12:49 PM   #40
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Default FORD 6.7 DIESEL PSA - Intercooler pipe failure

SMH . . . Mine just blew this morning on a taco run. Knew exactly what it was because I had read this thread earlier this week. Still waiting on the factory replacement. 12' with 65k


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Old 06-24-2017, 01:04 PM   #41
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My new ones sitting in the box at home..be putting it on tomorrow
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Old 06-24-2017, 02:12 PM   #42
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Got the new new ordered from power stroke plus or something like that for about 90 with shipping included. Not bad. Good thing I can use the work truck in the mean time.


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