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Old 03-18-2017, 01:15 AM   #1
Briar Friar
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Default Bear Kodiak Longbow Mid-Latter 50s

65" unstrung
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Last edited by Briar Friar; 03-18-2017 at 01:21 AM..
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:20 AM   #2
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Handwritten data
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:22 AM   #3
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Dual shelved
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:23 AM   #4
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US patent and limb fracturing.

When rapped, it still resonates to at least a six Mississippi count.
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Last edited by Briar Friar; 03-18-2017 at 01:26 AM.. Reason: RapSpake
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:24 AM   #5
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Missing emblem
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:32 AM   #6
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Not alot of apparent wear on notches.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:33 AM   #7
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Balances at 32 1/2" ish
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:35 AM   #8
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Right love
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:36 AM   #9
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Left love
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:39 AM   #10
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Leather grip. No stitching apparent. Kinda stinky.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:50 AM   #11
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I purchased this instrument of art about two weeks ago from http://www.rmsgear.com for $200ish plus tax. Im waiting on a proper string before shooting. The string loop notches need loops that are roughly the size of a dime, sharpie marker diameter...or smaller.
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Old 03-18-2017, 05:34 AM   #12
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Just my .02 here bud, but those linear cracks in the glass would have me a little concerned about shooting it. Ecspecially the ones from the tip down and through the belly. Neat Bows, and I think most would be surprised about the performance they can give. I love my Dual Shelf Polar. Good Luck
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:11 AM   #13
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it is what it is, Id shoot it
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:37 AM   #14
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That's a bear polar model here's some good information on them.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimate...;f=14;t=003321


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Old 03-18-2017, 09:06 AM   #15
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I'm not trying to be insulting but make sure the scratched off emblem is facing you when strung and shot. The other thread looks it's strung backwards and could be camera angle etc. The string groves in this thread look right. And string with somewhat normal sized loops should work if there is nothing wrong with the bow. The angle of the string nock makes sure of it.

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Old 03-18-2017, 09:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briar Friar View Post
65" unstrung
In this pic, when the bow is strung, the string should be on the opposite side than where the measuring tape is!

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Old 03-18-2017, 10:25 AM   #17
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its not strung thats backset
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:27 AM   #18
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I think bish just meant if it were strung the string would be on the opposite side of the tape

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Old 03-18-2017, 10:58 AM   #19
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roger
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Old 03-18-2017, 11:24 AM   #20
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How about when strung properly, the bow data written on the riser should be on the left.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkincaid View Post
That's a bear polar model here's some good information on them.

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimate...;f=14;t=003321
Thank you! I gather its a '54 Polar. More mid and less latter 50's. I bought it as a beater bow to learn to shoot a longbow. This is my first longbow. It seems that dual shelved bows arent very popular. Bear makes a modern dual shelved bow but in the Phoenix youth model. As an ambidextrous novice archer this dual shelved beast is much more desireable for learning than owning two centercut longbows (and as I gather and could be disputed more condusive to developing EFOC arrows).

Please pardon my novice bow photography.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dry Bones View Post
Just my .02 here bud, but those linear cracks in the glass would have me a little concerned about shooting it. Ecspecially the ones from the tip down and through the belly. Neat Bows, and I think most would be surprised about the performance they can give. I love my Dual Shelf Polar. Good Luck
Thank you for your concern. Is there any way to remedy those linear cracks and/or know someone who does reparations?...in central Texas.

Its is going to get shot as soon as I get a proper string.
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:58 PM   #23
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Unfortunately there is only one guy I know that does some refinish work. He is no magician, but very good. If those cracks are through the glass there is not much that can be done. If they are just superficial, and a lot of bows are, then it will be fine. Make sure you shoot arrows that are not to light for the bow. At 49 lbs try to shoot at least 450 grains of total arrow weight. I have lost a GOOD bow due to shooting an arrow that was not right for an older bow when I first started. The top limb de-laminated, basically like a dry fire. Hard lesson learned, not all advice is good.
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:11 PM   #24
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RMS sent a 16 strand B50 flemish twist. I strung day before yesterday and been letting the string stretch. Shot yesterday and today. I set brace at 8" before shooting today and it settled to 7 1/2" after 15-20 arrows.

This bow has no emblems on the belly. It looks like the "Polar" emblem had been on the upoer limb on the belly. A patent emblem is on the lower limb back and a small (quarter sized) Bear Archery emblem in the upper limb back. I havent set a knocking point or installed string silencers. There is quite a bit of bow reverberation after the shots. Just shooting. Im happy with (a few) pie plate sized kill box hits at fifteen yards.
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Last edited by Briar Friar; 03-30-2017 at 12:20 PM.. Reason: PresentTenseSpake
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:13 PM   #25
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Lower limb back patent emblem
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:14 PM   #26
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Upper limb back Bear emblem scratched off
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:15 PM   #27
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Upper limb belly
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:19 PM   #28
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Lower limb belly

The tiller seems to be greater on the upper riser fade than on the lower riser fade. Not sure if this is positive or negative tiller. Shooting with full length Beman Centershot 400s with 75gr brass inserts and 145gr field points.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:05 PM   #29
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the Tiller is correct it was Know as "chesty" back in the day
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:31 PM   #30
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Respectfully, let me ask about your string.

I think the terminology is confused, and from the pictures, it appears your bow is strung "backwards". The Back of the bow traditionally refers to the side that faces the target. Let's call that side A for this discussion. The belly is the side of the bow that faces the shooter. Call it side B. The string should run on side B (shooter's side, or belly).

Normally the stickers, emblems, and data are on the belly side, side B, facing the shooter as one draws. In your later photos it looks like the bow is strung, but the stickers, side B, are facing the camera; and I don't see a string. If so, then you are strung backwards. It is a common mistake, especially with bows that have such drastic backset or reflex.

You mentioned reverberation. The bow is flexing against its glue joints and is tillered to unspring in a different direction. This may be the cause of your excess vibration.

If I am reading your descriptions incorrectly, accept my apologies. I am work and don't have a lot of time. But you want to make sure an older bow like that is not shot backwards. It could shorten the usable life of your bow. Double check, just to be sure.
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Old 03-30-2017, 07:18 PM   #31
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simply put the tip overlays should be "outside" if that is the case then the Bow is properly strung. decal placement could be Changed from year to year or a Monday/Friday Bow
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:43 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TejasNW View Post
Respectfully, let me ask about your string.

I think the terminology is confused, and from the pictures, it appears your bow is strung "backwards". The Back of the bow traditionally refers to the side that faces the target. Let's call that side A for this discussion. The belly is the side of the bow that faces the shooter. Call it side B. The string should run on side B (shooter's side, or belly).

Normally the stickers, emblems, and data are on the belly side, side B, facing the shooter as one draws. In your later photos it looks like the bow is strung, but the stickers, side B, are facing the camera; and I don't see a string. If so, then you are strung backwards. It is a common mistake, especially with bows that have such drastic backset or reflex.

You mentioned reverberation. The bow is flexing against its glue joints and is tillered to unspring in a different direction. This may be the cause of your excess vibration.

If I am reading your descriptions incorrectly, accept my apologies. I am work and don't have a lot of time. But you want to make sure an older bow like that is not shot backwards. It could shorten the usable life of your bow. Double check, just to be sure.
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.co...d.php?t=637753

Kinda covered this ground already. I initially strung the bow backwards. This '54 Polar Longbow has no emblems on the belly and all emblems are on the back for whatever reason. On the 70s Kodiak Magnum Im shooting it has the patent and Bear archery emblems on the belly and not on the back. The Kodiak Magnum emblem is on the back. This threw me for a loop...literally and figuritively. Thank you for noticing and mentioning it.

Last edited by Briar Friar; 03-31-2017 at 10:44 AM.. Reason: EmblemSpake
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:49 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Restless View Post
the Tiller is correct it was Know as "chesty" back in the day
Thats awesome! Chesty Puller!? I forsee the rebirth and rechristening of a Polar!

Chesty Poller. Chesty Polar. Chesty Puller.

Oorah!
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