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Old 02-28-2017, 10:07 PM   #1
DWA
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Default How many of yall?

How many of yall actually bareshaft tune your trad bows?

I have a problem im trying to fix. With my bareshafts.
They show weak but my fletched arrows fly good. Im about to pull my hair out over it. But im starting to think i wont be shooting bareshafts at pigs so i should just let it be
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:09 PM   #2
Bisch
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I paper tune, and have always had great results along with great performance!

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Old 02-28-2017, 10:12 PM   #3
DWA
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How far away are u shooting at paper?
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:56 PM   #4
Felix40
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Always bare shaft my arrows. Can you cut a half inch off to see if that helps? It doesnt take much sometimes. My bare shafts will group with fletched arrows out to 30. Its nice to know that my arrows will fly good even if the feathers get wet.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:05 AM   #5
Draco
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Never.
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Old 03-01-2017, 01:14 AM   #6
CRM_95
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I'm always hesitant to tell folks anything about tuning because my experience is limited... but for me bare shaft tuning is a pain. My bow shoots bare shafts like darts a lot of times. But there's quite a few times it doesn't, and I think it's a form issue on my part. I think I'm just not consistent enough to make a bare shaft fly perfect every time. I know every time I shoot one I'm nervous for some reason. It sounds easy when you read about it but when you try to apply it, it's not. At least for me anyway.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:51 AM   #7
fwood
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I bare shaft tune, but sometimes it might be a while before I get around to doing it for a particular arrow. Fletching can fool you. Bare is a little weak or stiff, your fletched shafts fly just fine. Trim the weak shaft 1/4" at a time if you can. Sometimes might have to go up in spine and start over if the arrow gets too short or reduce point weight. It's a process that can take several sessions.
If I get nervous about it, I move closer to the bale. I start at about 7 or 8 yards and work back to 40.
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Old 03-01-2017, 07:34 AM   #8
Bisch
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Default How many of yall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWA View Post
How far away are u shooting at paper?


I start at 6'. Shoot and adjust till I get the bullet hole. Then move back to 15' and verify all is still the same.

Then I fletch some arrows and shoot some broadheads to verify they fly to the same aim point as field points.

Then I go hunting!

Bisch
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Old 03-01-2017, 07:40 AM   #9
DRT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRM_95 View Post
I'm always hesitant to tell folks anything about tuning because my experience is limited... but for me bare shaft tuning is a pain. My bow shoots bare shafts like darts a lot of times. But there's quite a few times it doesn't, and I think it's a form issue on my part. I think I'm just not consistent enough to make a bare shaft fly perfect every time. I know every time I shoot one I'm nervous for some reason. It sounds easy when you read about it but when you try to apply it, it's not. At least for me anyway.
Truth.
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Old 03-01-2017, 07:54 AM   #10
hammackc
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Never have, arrows fly good, broadheads hit the same

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Old 03-01-2017, 08:22 AM   #11
SwampRabbit
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I do. It is just one tool of many in the tool box.

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Old 03-01-2017, 09:14 AM   #12
Selfbowman
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Never. If they fly good they are good for me. If they are flopping or hitting the target wrong you have the wrong arrow for that bow. Arvin
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Old 03-01-2017, 09:30 AM   #13
Thorsten
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My two bits, I bare shaft at 10 yards whenever I make changes to my setup.

To keep broad heads and fingers apart with my DL, I need full length shafts leaving me to play with spine, point weight and brace to get to where I'm a tad weak before fletching.
Most important is still shooting your broad heads to have sufficient fletching to stabilize. I get away with 4x3' parabolic on my field points, but go 4x4' or even 5' for margins with the sharp ones.

As y'all probably have experienced, before our form is consistent, any tuning is just frustrating, but regardless of form, shoot a few before making changes and settle!
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:27 AM   #14
Caddo
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Majority of the time, no. I will resort to bare shaft tuning if I'm have trouble getting good flight out of a particular shaft type or bow.

LD
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:14 AM   #15
Featherflinger
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I bare shaft at about 20 yards and trim until they hit the same as field points. If they're a tad on the weak side it's ok (unless your arrow is eradic with broadheads). After I bare shaft I shoot fletched arrows with field points and broadheads to make sure everything is perfect. The broadheads will magnify any imperfections in your arrow spine and you can make appropriate changes as needed.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:42 AM   #16
caughtandhobble
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Personally, bare shafting is the easiest tool that I have found in bare bow shooting.

Like stated above, form has to be consistent in order to get reliable results.

Like Bisch, I always paper tuned when I had an archery shop around the corner from my house. I even made a frame that stayed in my way on every project I ever started in the garage. Once I discovered "Bare Shafting" I never looked back. On the rare occasion that I make a road trip to an archery shop I always shoot paper and chronograph just for fun. For the record, every time that I have shot paper, I do get bullet holes. Every time I shoot thru the chrono, my bows are still slow

Some people like to tinker, some don't. I always thought I liked to tinker before I met "Lil John" he is a mad scientist tinkerer, lol. OK, I like to play to the point I tinker too much. Sometimes I screw up a near perfect set-up to try something new. I will say that I have learned from tinkering but most of the time if I would've just listened to Bisch or Rick I would have saved some time.

Yes, I Bare Shaft tune and love it!!!!
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:43 AM   #17
Phillip Fields
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Featherflinger View Post
I bare shaft at about 20 yards and trim until they hit the same as field points. If they're a tad on the weak side it's ok (unless your arrow is eradic with broadheads). After I bare shaft I shoot fletched arrows with field points and broadheads to make sure everything is perfect. The broadheads will magnify any imperfections in your arrow spine and you can make appropriate changes as needed.
Same way I do it.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:32 PM   #18
JEFFRO
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NEVER, I do the math add 1 inch and fine tune..
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Old 03-05-2017, 11:40 PM   #19
Maddog20/20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWA View Post
How many of yall actually bareshaft tune your trad bows?

I have a problem im trying to fix. With my bareshafts.
They show weak but my fletched arrows fly good. Im about to pull my hair out over it. But im starting to think i wont be shooting bareshafts at pigs so i should just let it be
I always bareshaft my arrows to tune. What I generally do (assuming I'm changing arrows) is order a multipack with different spines (can't remember if it's 3Rivers or Lancaster that sells those) . You want to shoot them until you get a fairly regular pattern of which is weak and which is stiff. The problem is that you have to have a bulletproof form and release to get a truly meaningful measurement bareshaft.

You want to choose the one closest to true while still a little weak. If it's only a little weak, you don't even need to cut it and you can just fletch it because those feathers will straighten it out nicely or you can adjust it with your tip weight.

If you go too stiff, you can always increase the tip weight, but that's kind of hard to get right.

Either way, if they're flying true fletched I suppose that's all that really matters. I get a little too meticulous with my arrow building and that makes it take way longer than it should, but even with mine (Easton trads), I'm never able to get a perfectly true arrow bare shaft. It's probably inconsistencies in my release, but either way, like you, they fly straight when I fletch them so it's game on!
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Old 03-06-2017, 04:56 PM   #20
gettin closer
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I just got some new arrows in on Friday and bare shaft tuned them on Sunday. This is the way I learned and never have tried paper tuning. With feathers, they can correct the flight before your eyes notice a change or improper flight. That is there job. They also distract from what the shaft is doing. If you get them bare shaft tuned just right, you will ultimately have better pennitration and speed as energy is not being used to straighten the flight of the arrow. Feathers will also make the spine stiffer. (Not considerably but just a pinch. So if you are bare starting and are a hair on the weak side. Once you add feathers, you are dead on. Again, this is talking about a hair difference.)
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Old 03-18-2017, 11:35 PM   #21
steve morton
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I usually have a couple of arrows that will not shoot consistently when i get a new batch and I use them for varmit control retaining the others for hunting.
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