Filters - Which ones, Why and When?

[WyoBull]

There has always been a lot of discussion in photography circles about the use of filters, which ones to use and in what situations does one use them.

I thought I would start a thread on this subject and am interested to hear your input.

I use an 81A warming filter 80% of the time, especially when photographing wildlife because I like the warming effect it has on the animals and general overall scene.

I use a polarizer less frequently but do so mainly around water when I either want to take the glare away on the water, or keep it in depending on the look I want to capture.

Occasionally 3 will use an enhancing filter if I am photographing flowers or fall landscape which has a lot of red in it. This filter really makes the reds pop.

What I have used in the past but not currently is a Skylight 1A filter and that was mainly to just protect the front of the lens.

What filters do you use, why and in what situations?

[Shane]

Hey Scott, I missed this thread somehow originally. I am planning on buying a few more filters, so I'm trying to read up. I think I've settled on the Cokin Z-Pro system, but still trying to decide on what filters to get with it. I've never used an 81A, but I've seen some info on them. Do you have any examples of your shots with that one? Also, how 'bout the enhancing filter?

Thanks!

[AtTheWall]

I need to pick up several enhancing filter. I have some regions between Harper and Doss that are ate up with redrock buttes/bluffs and ravines. I shot that area several years ago exploring the scenic potential and I certainly want to revisit with a filter made for those scenes.

I've always wanted a decent filter kit and it's taken time to get there. During my travels around the State, I always have one eye out for shot potentials, most particularly in the Hill Country region, West Texas and down into South Texas (it's close to home). Knowing I can lean on a filter for a look will make my travels way more productive.

My photog thoughts, as I roll the State for photography material, eyes roaming for scenes etc are:

Is the composition right? It caught my eye...so thats more than half of the requirement.

What is the best lighting for this particular location? Morning, high light, cloudy or evening? What is the best light direction angle for his scene? What filter or effect do I need? Is it better in winter brown, fall red or spring - summer?

Thats how I roll. I can always come back and shoot static scenes. It extends my photography experience and gives me something to plan for.

[WyoBull]

Shane, thanks for responding. I will post some stuff when I get back to the house.

[predatoraddct]

This is a great post. I use a cir polarizer sometimes and uv filters for protection. But other than that I am clueless so I will be watching this thread!

[WyoBull]

Yesterday Shane made a great suggestion in posting some pictures taken with different filters so we could see the differences. I thought about that and how best it might be done so I spent a couple hours this morning photographing two different scenes with different filters. Since my wife and daughter scoffed at the idea of being my model for all of you to see, I had to use my lab Kolbi for one of the tests, hope you don't mind! haha

All shots are posted exactly the way they came out of the camera, except for resizing to be able to upload here. There was no post processing done at all on these photos because I wanted everyone to be able to see the effects filters have, though often times very subtle. I have put the EXIF data for each photo with the photograph.



Photo #1 - 35-70 - NO FILTER
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:05:48.1
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: 35-70mm F/2.8 D
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/800 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off






Photo #2 - 35-70 - UV Filter
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:07:49.6
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: 35-70mm F/2.8 D
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/750 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off






Photo #3 - 35-70 - Enhancing Filter
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:10:01.4
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: 35-70mm F/2.8 D
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/500 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

Notice how the reds "pop" in the photo much more than in the other shots with different filters? You can really see it if you look at the small plant in the photo with the red flowers. If you have reds in your scene that you want to stand out, this is a great filter for that purpose. I believe the most effective use of this filter is in the fall when the leaves are changing. The Aspens come to mind back home in Wyoming when the leaves start changing to yellows and reds.






Photo #4 - 35-70 - Circular Polarizer
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:11:45.2
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: 35-70mm F/2.8 D
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/250 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off






Photo #5 - 70-200 - 81A Warming Filter
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:15:31.6
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 70-200mm F/2.8 G
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/800 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

Notice how this filter produces a much warmer picture than the other filters used in this experiment yet it was shot with the same settings. The application I like best for the 81A warming filter is with wildlife and sometimes people. In addition to this filter, if you also set your white balance on cloudy or shady (Nikon speak, not sure how Canon designates these two settings), you can get photos that literally have an extreme sun warmth glow to them.






Photo #6 - 70-200 - 81A Warming Filter - Kolbi
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:17:26
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 70-200mm F/2.8 G
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/500 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

Notice the warmer tone and feel to this photo as compared to the next one that was shot with no filter at all. I like my photos warm and with a higher degree of color saturation. For this experiment I did not bump up the color saturation as I normally would, I set it back to the "Normal" setting.






Photo #7 - 70-200 - No Filter - Kolbi
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:20:13.5
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 70-200mm F/2.8 G
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/640 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

Obviously, this is the absolute best way to shoot if you you do a lot of post processing just because there is nothing between the high quality glass you shoot and the subject. I have always used filters and should probably think more about taking them off once in a while when I am in the field.






Photo #8 - 70-200 - 81A Warming Filter and Circular Polarizer - Kolbi (not stacked, this is a Moose Peterson filter that combines both the warming and circular polarizer in one filter... very cool)
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:23:09.0
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 70-200mm F/2.8 G
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/320 sec - F/5.6
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

One thing I did not do in this experiment for this particular photo is overexpose due to the polarizer filter. I wanted to shoot everything the same for the experiment. Because of that, this photo is a little dark due to underexposure. Where this filter works really well is with wildlife on very bright days with harsher light conditions.






Photo #9 - 70-200 - UV Filter - Kolbi
Nikon D200
2009/04/05 09:25:53.8
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 70-200mm F/2.8 G
Focal Length: 70mm
Exposure Mode: Aperture Priority
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/2000 sec - F/2.8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode I (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Auto
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

To me, a UV is good as a protective filter for the front of your lens. While it does cut some UV rays, I cannot see any difference between shooting with this filter and the ones where I shot with no filter at all. It is a must have however for lens protection.






Well, I know this is a lot of information to wade through and compare but I definitely can see differences between the shots using different filters and what it tells me after completing this little experiment is how important filters are in addition to composition, lighting etc. in helping stir emotion and feeling within your audience.

I would really enjoy your feedback, examples and experience you have with filters as we can all learn from one another in sharing our passion for photography, weather as a novice or paid professional.

[WyoBull]

One thing I forgot to insert in my above post was the photo I took of the different filters I used in the experiment. The Enhancing filter actually has a little more of a majenta color to it than you can see in the photo below.
What is more interesting to me is the difference between the UV and 81A Warming filter.

[Casey]

I use a circular polarizer occasionally and a neutral density. I don't have any side by side comparisons, though.

[Shane]

Great post, Scott! Excellent work in comparing and contrasting the different filters. That's helpful.

I'd be interested to see the same shots done with auto white balance, like you did them, and then a 2nd set with a set WB on all shots (neutral, cloudy, whatever...). It's hard to tell here, but the white markings in the bricks appear to have a little less of a blue cast in the warming filter shot. Makes me wonder how WB is affected and what types of changes are needed when changing filters.

Not that you need to set up again and take several more shots! It'll likely be a little different on my camera anyway. I just need to get some more filters and experiment.

[WyoBull]

Great post, Scott! Excellent work in comparing and contrasting the different filters. That's helpful.

I'd be interested to see the same shots done with auto white balance, like you did them, and then a 2nd set with a set WB on all shots (neutral, cloudy, whatever...). It's hard to tell here, but the white markings in the bricks appear to have a little less of a blue cast in the warming filter shot. Makes me wonder how WB is affected and what types of changes are needed when changing filters.

Not that you need to set up again and take several more shots! It'll likely be a little different on my camera anyway. I just need to get some more filters and experiment.

Thanks Shane! I have done some little experiments on my own in the past with shooting the same shot with different white balance settings. If I can find them, I will post them because the differences are amazing. What I do use, especially in the early mornings is the cloudy or shade white balance setting because it really magnifies that early morning glow from the sun. I have attached one here where I used the cloudy white balance setting earlier in the morning.
Also, though I did not do it here, within the white balance setting you can then customize even further by over or underexposing the white balance. A lot of customization but hard to to on the fly depending on your subject matter.

Nikon D200
2007/09/16 08:01:21.4
JPEG (8-bit) Normal
Image Size: Large (2592 x 3872)
Color
Lens: VR 80-400mm F/4.5-5.6 D
Focal Length: 80mm
Exposure Mode: Programmed Auto
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/200 sec - F/7.1
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Custom
White Balance: Cloudy
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode III (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment: (C)SCOTT GALLINGER
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

[WyoBull]

Here are a series of 4 pictures with white balance settings of Shade, Cloudy, Direct Sunlight and Automatic. Not exciting picture but was just experimenting with difference WB settings outside my house. From these 4 pictures, the most accurate color of the brick on my home is with the Auto WB setting. From most of the research I have done and with a lot of practice, the Auto WB setting is going to be the most accurate in probably 95% of shooting situations (my 2 cents worth).

Nikon D200
2006/01/06 12:08:30.6
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 24-120mm F/3.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 62mm
Exposure Mode: Programmed Auto
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/250 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Vivid
White Balance: Shade
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode III (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: Medium high
Image Comment:
Long Exposure NR: Off



Nikon D200
2006/01/06 12:08:39.8
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 24-120mm F/3.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 62mm
Exposure Mode: Programmed Auto
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/250 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Vivid
White Balance: Cloudy
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode III (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: Medium high
Image Comment:
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off



Nikon D200
2006/01/06 12:08:49.6
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 24-120mm F/3.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 62mm
Exposure Mode: Programmed Auto
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/250 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Vivid
White Balance: Direct sunlight
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode III (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: Medium high
Image Comment:
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off



Nikon D200
2006/01/06 12:09:02.7
JPEG (8-bit) Fine
Image Size: Large (3872 x 2592)
Color
Lens: VR 24-120mm F/3.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 62mm
Exposure Mode: Programmed Auto
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/250 sec - F/8
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Vivid
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode III (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Normal
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: Medium high
Image Comment:
Long Exposure NR: Off
High ISO NR: Off

[Shane]

Right on the auto WB being the most accurate. I quit messing with any other WB setting a good while ago. Plus I shoot in RAW, so if auto ever isn't right, then I fix the rare pic in post processing.

What I was curious about is how the different filters change the white balance of the image. If you pick one WB setting (besides auto) and then shoot a scene with different filters what happens?

Not sure if I'm making sense or not. Like I said, it's probably going to vary some from camera to camera anyway, so I'll need to get my own filters on my own camera and do some experimenting like you've been doing. That's great stuff.

[WyoBull]

Right on the auto WB being the most accurate. I quit messing with any other WB setting a good while ago. Plus I shoot in RAW, so if auto ever isn't right, then I fix the rare pic in post processing.

What I was curious about is how the different filters change the white balance of the image. If you pick one WB setting (besides auto) and then shoot a scene with different filters what happens?

Shane,
My experience has been and it proves out in the photo of Kolbi that I did earlier in the thread with the camera on Auto WB and then using the 81A filter, that the filter "warms" the image but not near as extreme as using Cloudy or Shade WB settings.
Using cloudy with the 81A filter just amplifies the warmness.

Citing an example from yesterday, I dropped by Zilker Park Botanical Gardens here in Austin to take some shots of the flowers. I knew the light was not right but I was going to take some shots of the red flower with the enhancing filter to post on this site with the intention of showing you the difference. Long story short, I had my camera on Vivid+ saturation level and auto WB. The flowers did not even look real they were so saturated because of the Vivid+ setting in addition to the enhancing filter. They looked horrible so I trashed them!

As you know, there are so many settings on these DSLRs that one can easily blow an image out trying to get creative.

I have never done a lot of post processing but would like to get more into it with Photoshop. I have always heard it takes forever to learn it, and I just have not made that leap yet. I need to though and any advice/suggestions you can give, in a pm if you would like, would be much appreciated.

[Shadow]

The circular polarizing one can be difficult to post comparisons on as it depends on how much you turn it as to how much it actually affects the picture, it's adjustable so to speak.

I have also used the UV filter but have not noticed any ill affects on any of my pictures, indoors or outdoors. It might affect bright colors but I'm not sure.

[Shane]

Scott, do you shoot in RAW, RAW+JPEG or in JPEG? If you shot the red flower pic in RAW, you can change the WB and saturation and everything else in post processing. The RAW file captures what comes through the lens while the camera applies your settings to a JPEG preview on the LCD screen. But when you put the RAW file into your processing software, you get to start all over with the adjustments and settings without losing anything.

When I first got my DSLR, I shot in RAW all the time because I wasn't sure yet how I should have everything set on the camera. As I spent a little time setting the adjustments in post processing, I learned what changes one way or the other in all the different adjustments did to a picture. Changing the white balance, the saturation, the contrast, the sharpness, and everything. It gave me some ideas on how to set my camera if/when I want to shoot JPEGs. That can save a little time in post processing.

But another time saver is that I learned to just shoot auto white balance and get a good exposure in camera RAW and not worry about the saturation, contrast, sharpness stuff in camera. I have my Photoshop and Lightroom settings adjusted to my most common liking, and I have those settings as my default settings. I apply the settings to a batch of pics VERY quickly as they are downloaded. It doesn't take much longer than just downloading JPEGs. Probably the little bit of extra time has more to do with the size of the RAW files vs. the smaller JPEGs. No big deal. Plus I still have my "negatives" in the RAW files that I can go back and process differently later without any loss of data or quality.

If I have a set of pics that have odd lighting or something and my default software settings aren't the ticket, then I spend a couple of minutes on one of the pics to get the settings I need. Then I apply those settings to the rest of the batch.

RAW is the way to go, IMO. Whatever effect a filter has will show up in the unprocessed RAW file, of course, because the filter changes things on the front end of the lens before the light hits the sensor. But once the sensor creates the digital RAW file, your options are limitless.