Planting deeper?

[BlakeJ]

For bigger seeds like peas, soybeans, etc, how do you guys like to plant them? (Without a planter)

Is a cultipacker going to get those bigger seeds deep enough?

[Boomerang]

Uniform depth yields a better germination. Too deep for any seed size, the plant can not reach the surface. Lose soil and wet enough, any seed will germinate on the surface. Birds are a problem for shallow seeds.

[Top Of Texas]

Where is the property (region or county)?
What equipment do have access to for field prep?
Do you know soil type/texture? (Sand, loam, clay?)
Acres in plot?

Even though you didn't ask, I always feel the need to warn, remind, folks that unless you intensively farm a food plot that your efforts will most likely not have an impact on the productivity/growth of the deer. Depending on where your'e at, unless you intensively farm it, then the old saying is true "You can grow them when you don't need them, but you can't grow them when you do need them". I just don't like to see a guy investing time and money in something that won't have the expected benefit.

That doesn't mean that the deer won't use it, but if you get enough rain to grow the "non-farmed" plot, then there's also enough rain to grow good natural forage. The real benefit to deer growth and development comes when your plot provides good nutrition that's not available in the pasture.

Now, if you're doing it to attract deer, that's different, I just like for folks to have realistic expectations. If this is what you're shooting for, I still need answers to the questions above in order to provide meaningful recommendations.

Sorry for the unsolicited sermon.

[Drycreek3189]

I have had excellent results discing enough to loosen the soil, then set my disc gangs almost straight. This leaves shallow " grooves " in the seedbed. Broadcast your seeds and drag. Cultipack after if you want, but I never have simply because I don't have a cultipacker. I have no problem growing wheat, oats, cow peas, or soybeans like this. For small seeds, I do the same, except I drag it smooth, plant, then drag it again. It ain't rocket science provided you have your soil amended correctly, put out the proper fertilizer, and the proper amount, and get the moisture you need.

[BlakeJ]

Bell county river bottom soil.

I'll get it rototilled first, then I'll have a small disc and cultipacker to use. For the bigger seed I'll probably disc in my fertilizer right before I'm ready to plant, seed, then cultipack.

[Top Of Texas]

Bell Co, river bottom...Sounds like soil should be somewhere around a clay loam, so soil is probably dark and firm but not rock hard with dirt clods, correct? If so, I wouldn't use the cultipack in attempt to cover seeds. Rather, after field prep, I would recommend broadcast inoculated seeds, then light shallow disk (which will cover seeds), then cultipack to maximize soil to seed contact. If you do this with deep and appropriate soil moisture (grab a handfull of soil, squeeze and release, if soil holds shape it's perfect), then you should have plants up within 10 days. The advantage of moist soil planting over dry soil planting is that your plants get a head start on the weeds, so when it rains your plants are already up and going. If dry planting, then you're waiting on rain, and plants and weeds come up together.

The species you listed can be planted relatively deep, so light, shallow disk works well for covering.

[BlakeJ]

Yes, not super dark soil though.

My disc is a fixed 20 degree single row pull behind, so I worry a little about getting them too deep with it. I could not stack any weight on it and it should be a fairly light discing.

[Top Of Texas]

You said "small disc", what is diameter of disc blade?

[BlakeJ]

16"

[BrianL]

Drag harrow is a really good cheap piece of equipment for covering seeds after you disk. I would disk, then drag seeds.

[Top Of Texas]

16"