More tuning questions

[TXbowman]

I am kinda getting back into wheel bows. Been playing with trad bows mostly for a few years. Trad shooting showed me how important tuning arrows is. Before when I started with a compound I went to the pro shop, they set up my bow, told me what arrows I needed and cut them for me. They showed me how to sight in and I was good to go. Or so I thought. There was never any tuning done. I'm confused about some things still.

Why adjust a rest to ensure "center shot?" Arent most people using drop away rests anyway?

Does bare shafting work well for compounds?

It seems that a lot of tuning problems can be hidden because even if the arrow is off from being weak, stiff, nock high, etc. you adjust the sight to where the arrow is hitting and don't know any better.

My questions might be very ignorant but I'm trying to learn

[Reedimus]

Google- Easton Tuning Guide

[old killer]

With the rest in center shot and tuning with a bare shaft insures the spine is right. If you can get a bullet hole with a bare shaft 15ft you will have great arrow flight with vanes.
Minor rest adjustments to get good flight will probably be necessary. The center shot of the bow is a factory specification with out the individual archers grip being applied to the bow.

[Rat]

I am kinda getting back into wheel bows. Been playing with trad bows mostly for a few years. Trad shooting showed me how important tuning arrows is. Before when I started with a compound I went to the pro shop, they set up my bow, told me what arrows I needed and cut them for me. They showed me how to sight in and I was good to go. Or so I thought. There was never any tuning done. I'm confused about some things still.

Why adjust a rest to ensure "center shot?" Arent most people using drop away rests anyway?

Does bare shafting work well for compounds?

It seems that a lot of tuning problems can be hidden because even if the arrow is off from being weak, stiff, nock high, etc. you adjust the sight to where the arrow is hitting and don't know any better.

My questions might be very ignorant but I'm trying to learn

Even on a drop away rest the center shot needs to be correct. Center shot is just a starting point though; you will need to tune to the 'dynamic' center of the bow eventually, there are several methods to do this...

Yes, bare shaft tuning works well if you have solid shooting form.

Here is the Easton Tuning Guide Link:
http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/dow...ning_guide.pdf

This is a good place to start.

I also use walk-back tuning and, sometimes, modified French tuning to tune to the 'dynamic' center of the bow.
Wal-back tuning and modified French tuning

Start with a good solid set up first, nock point (on string) level, center shot perfect, peep aligned, sights leveled on all three axis, draw length correct, draw weight correct, arrow spine correct... Start with a good solid set up and good form, this makes tuning much easier.

[TXbowman]

How do you tune the bow corretly if the arrows aren't tuned? Seems like you would have to do that first.
Do you walk back tune before sighting bow in?
Do you adjust the center shot by moving just the rest or nock?
Dumb question here but what do you mean and how do you get sight level on all three axis?

Sorry for all the questions. I really appreciate the patience and yalls help.

[Rat]

How do you tune the bow corretly if the arrows aren't tuned? Seems like you would have to do that first.
Do you walk back tune before sighting bow in?
Do you adjust the center shot by moving just the rest or nock?
Dumb question here but what do you mean and how do you get sight level on all three axis?

Sorry for all the questions. I really appreciate the patience and yalls help.

Arrows - If you build the arrows correctly (inserts in straight, good fletching, good nocks etc) that is all you need to begin. We don't start group tuning the arrows until after the bow is tuned.

Walk Back Tune - You will need to sight in one pin @ 5 or 10 yards; that's all you need for walk back tuning. You will shoot at the exact same spot with the exact same pin but from different distances.

Center Shot - Yes, adjusting the center shot left and right is done with the rest according to the arrow position on the target.

Nock Point - I set the nock point so my arrow is exactly level and right through the center of the Berger hole for fall away and whisker biscuits. For traditional spring loaded rests I start about 1/8" high (arrow points down slightly) for single cam bows; for dual cam bows I advance the top cam a little to 'lift' the arrow or you can make it 1/8" high as well.

Sight - 1st axis (pitch) is set by the mounting screws, no adjusting. 2nd (roll) axis is the level on the scope ring; level the bow (riser to riser) and then make sure the level on the scope is good. 3rd axis (yaw) is done at full draw using a plumb bob. Hang a plumb bob, draw the bow and get low (on your knees) so your bow is angled up at greater than 20 degrees. Line the pins up along the string on the plumb bob and check the level in the scope. Add shims to get the bubble in the level right while drawn (at an angle) with your pins lined up on the plumb bob string.

[TXbowman]

I think all the Apollo missions combined didn't have this much physics involved. Rat, do you have a PhD in this stuff?
Just joking. I am very impressed with your knowledge and appreciate the help. It is all a bit overwhelming and intimidating though.

[Dusty Britches]

With the rest in center shot and tuning with a bare shaft insures the spine is right. If you can get a bullet hole with a bare shaft 15ft you will have great arrow flight with vanes.
Minor rest adjustments to get good flight will probably be necessary. The center shot of the bow is a factory specification with out the individual archers grip being applied to the bow.

This is the man that knows. Senior Pro archer for many years. And he can hunt, too!

[Bowhunter1994]

Great thread

[Rat]

I think all the Apollo missions combined didn't have this much physics involved. Rat, do you have a PhD in this stuff?
Just joking. I am very impressed with your knowledge and appreciate the help. It is all a bit overwhelming and intimidating though.

It can be overwhelming, but it's just like eating an elephant; one bite at a time...

It doesn't all need to be done in one day of shooting. Understand what you are doing and why, read the manuals, watch videos, read forums etc. It is far better to understand why you make an adjustment than to just make adjustments because some one said to do it...

Understanding how my bow and my body work helped me become a better archer and hunter.