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    #16
    walkback tuning is the way to go, paper tuning is not all that it is cracked up to be, try this before you go and change a bunch of stuff
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      #17
      Originally posted by atexx2 View Post
      walkback tuning is the way to go, paper tuning is not all that it is cracked up to be, try this before you go and change a bunch of stuff
      How does walk-back tuning address high and low issues?

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        #18
        This should help. Feel free to ask or pm questions. Even if you decide to shoot mechanicals set you bow with fixed and don't worry about paper!!
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          #19
          Soap Box for me here.............bullets holes in paper don't kill animals.

          Tune your bow. The Slick Tricks are not your problem.

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            #20
            Never had a problem with Slick Tricks!

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              #21
              Originally posted by rocky View Post
              How does walk-back tuning address high and low issues?
              Do you not agree with having a well tuned bow?
              Do you paper tune your bow's and leave it at that?

              It might help get the bow tuned. If you shoot the arrows alternating and you are getting two different groups with the ST's being 12" low then you might want weigh the BH and the FT.

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                #22
                Originally posted by atexx2 View Post
                Do you not agree with having a well tuned bow?
                Do you paper tune your bow's and leave it at that?

                It might help get the bow tuned. If you shoot the arrows alternating and you are getting two different groups with the ST's being 12" low then you might want weigh the BH and the FT.
                Seriously, in what manner does walk-back tuning address high and low issues.?

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                  #23
                  Rocky is right!! Paper tuning nor walk back tuning does nothing for highs and lows. I can have a great tear in paper but the bow can still be out of tune. I recently shot through a chrony and the bow was faster with the rest out 1/16" out further on the riser, but the paper tear was perfect where the customer had it. We shot the bh at 60 yds, guess what, we moved the rest away from the riser a 1/16"!!

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by rocky View Post
                    Seriously, in what manner does walk-back tuning address high and low issues.?
                    Rocky, you are right, it does nothing for the windage.

                    So what is your suggestion to fix his problem?

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by atexx2 View Post
                      Rocky, you are right, it does nothing for the windage.

                      So what is your suggestion to fix his problem?
                      I am confused, my bad, what i should have posted was that walk back tuning does nothing for elevation.

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                        #26
                        Now that we have that cleared up, let me explain my method.
                        Tuning a bow is not rocket science, but is not always simple and with obvious answers.A bow simply returns to brace, and all we can do is interfere.
                        I start with visually lining the arrow up square, and inline with the bow itself.
                        The trick to this is taking an overall view of the lines of the bow and not just one visual or measurement.
                        What I do next, depends on cam style. If I have a dual cam bow,(cam and 1/2 included) I time by hand-drawing the bow until cams roll over as close to the same as I can feel.
                        (in my opinion, trying to use a draw-board is a waste of time due to forces vs hand-drawn are different).
                        Now, with arrow square and straight out the bow,and a Bodoodle Pro-Lite mounted, I shoot paper, making cam-lean adjustments for left right tears, and micro-time cams ( which will be inevitable due to adjusting cam-lean), and slight horizontal rest movements, due to riser torque.( when retiming cams, I will adjust nock point accordingly)
                        Once I achieve bulletholes, I install rest of choice and at this point, I have eliminated the bow from the equation, and can focus on rest timing, horizontal positioning, and nocking point that works for a drop-away.
                        I hate to manipulate center-shot or nock-point to accomodate any particular rest, but with some drop-aways it is required.
                        With binary cams, same process, but can eliminate cam-lean(unless excessive, and if so limbs will have to be replaced) and micro-timing. I visually time the cams with limbs.
                        Single cams are easy, done the same way as far as rest positioning, and only have to check idler lean and cam rotation.( cam lean requires cam bushings,a limb swap or replacement).
                        Now it's time to broadhead tune,and 3children has posted that method.
                        Keep in mind that this is the Reader's Digest version, and after tuning thousands of bows in my life, (lots of dual cams) I have seen things that make me scratch my head occasionally, and even I know when to use my phone to call a friend that has way more knowledge than me.
                        As you can see, I don't strictly rely on paper tears, but papertuning is very important in chasing tuning issues that walk-back tuning doesn't address.(even hand positioning)
                        Last edited by rocky; 03-24-2010, 06:36 PM.

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                          #27
                          Good info here! Paper tuning drives me to drinking! I have always broadhead tuned by moving the rest till I get close!

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                            #28
                            and even I know when to use my phone to call a friend that has way more knowledge than me.

                            wait a second, i go to you cause you already have all the knowledge. now you tell me that there is someone else who has more than you when it comes to bows. i'm at a loss.

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                              #29
                              Should you adjust your rest from side to side first or your sight?

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                                #30
                                Stick to mechs..I've been in the same boat and finally decided it's not worth the hassle. (i was just trying to save money since trics are so cheap) If you have a bow that produces a good KE you should shoot mechs anyway in my opinion..if you can push a bigger blade through an animal and get a better trail plus they fly great it's a no brainer.

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