Welding Aluminum (boat hull)

[BtheBuck]

Got a good deal on a boat., but it has a leak on one side. The guy I got it from tried to use flex seal to fix it, and it did not work

The other side was actually welded in the past.

Anyway, I am not a welder and I hear aluminum is not easy. Where could I get this fixed. What should I expect to pay? North of DFW

bad side:





good side:

[miket]

I think I paid about $150. I can burn a rod ( but not great at it ) so I tried it myself and everyone is right, it is very, very hard. Doesnt act like steel at all. I couldnt even keep it lit.

[AgHntr10]

wait a minute....you mean to tell me I shouldn't build an airboat out of flexseal now?

[Graysonhogs]

PM Sent

[quackaholic1]

I knocked a hole in an all weld boat one time.. Don't ask how... LOL I went to Auto Zone and bought a gallon of roll on bed liner. Turned boat upside down, prepped the bottom and rolled it on.. It worked great. I had the boat 10 more years then sold it. Its still going strong, not leaks at all. Total cost around $100. Easy to do.

[BtheBuck]

PM Sent

replied- thanks

[BtheBuck]

Ttt

[Ecoboost]

$20 or a 18 pack? If you were closer that would be my going rate!

[DRT]

I had mine done at a fab place here in Saginaw. That was a few years ago. But there at a lot of fab shops that weld aluminum. It's not that difficult. I did it when I worked for the city. The right gas with your wire welder and you are good to go.

Gary

[SaltwaterSlick]

Your issue is that the base metal may not be thick enough around the leak to weld dependably. Each side where the bow appears to be formed is welded. The weld on the other side looks like it may be "factory"... But also in that pic, there are rivets in the side of the boat. That is an indication that it is not a welded hull (partial weld at best). That also means the side metal may be thin. Most all welded hull aluminum boats have at least 0.100" thick material as base metal. Riveted boats often are in the range of 0.060-0.080 thick. It takes a REALLY good welder with a heli-arc machine to get a good strong weld on that stuff. That MAY not be such a good deal for you! Before I paid anything for the boat, I'd take it to a good shop that does professional welding on aluminum and get their opinion.

[Texas Grown]

Want to see a boat burn up? Who ever welds it needs to remove the foam inside first, both the floor and the side in that area. Or it will catch fire, melt, and/or cause a welding mess. I've done enough Structural Warranty repairs on Tracker boats to know. Your keel is the other most likely place that a weld will split.

Best way to check it for other leaks when making that repair, including rivets that need tightening up, is to fill it with water. Then get underneath and mark the leaks with a Sharpie. Then drain the boat and let it dry before doing the repairs. Once the repairs are done, leak check it again. If you happen to have a rivet leaking, I would not except anything that leaks more than 1 drop per minute at the least. Rivets will wallow out the holes they are in over time from vibration and flex of the aluminum. And sometimes crack around the rivet hole due to stress. Repair welds should not leak at all. Even if it is a rivet hole that has to be welded. That too, needs the foam removed on the inside before welding.

Is there a sticker about aluminum welding on the outside of one of transom corners about "Wells"?

[BtheBuck]

Want to see a boat burn up? Who ever welds it needs to remove the foam inside first, both the floor and the side in that area. Or it will catch fire, melt, and/or cause a welding mess. I've done enough Structural Warranty repairs on Tracker boats to know. Your keel is the other most likely place that a weld will split.

Best way to check it for other leaks when making that repair, including rivets that need tightening up, is to fill it with water. Then get underneath and mark the leaks with a Sharpie. Then drain the boat and let it dry before doing the repairs. Once the repairs are done, leak check it again. If you happen to have a rivet leaking, I would not except anything that leaks more than 1 drop per minute at the least. Rivets will wallow out the holes they are in over time from vibration and flex of the aluminum. And sometimes crack around the rivet hole due to stress. Repair welds should not leak at all. Even if it is a rivet hole that has to be welded. That too, needs the foam removed on the inside before welding.

Is there a sticker about aluminum welding on the outside of one of transom corners about "Wells"?

good point. I will check for the sticker when I get back in town tomorrow. thanks for the info