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    Split/3 Under

    I have a question I would like to ask the Tradional TBHer's.... I recently purchased a used Black Widow and was wondering how would you tell if possible, if the bow was tillered for split finger or 3 below?

    #2
    What is the tiller on your bow?

    I've bought two different brand new bows from BW.
    One I bought to be tillered for split, the other I bought to be tillered for 3 under.

    Guess what? They are both tillered +1/8"

    Don't worry about it.
    Any bow tillered between 0 & +1/4" can be tuned and shot either way just fine.

    Rick

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      #3
      Measure the distance between the fadeout on the limb and the string on each limb. If the measurement is the same, it is tillered fro 3-under. If the measurement is 1/8" to 3/8" more on the top limb, then the bow is tillered for split finger.

      Bisch

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        #4
        Originally posted by Bisch View Post
        Measure the distance between the fadeout on the limb and the string on each limb. If the measurement is the same, it is tillered fro 3-under. If the measurement is 1/8" to 3/8" more on the top limb, then the bow is tillered for split finger.

        Bisch
        This is correct, and it does make some difference, but that difference is nothing that can't be overcome with tuning.

        Where & how you place your hand on the grip makes 10 times more difference than tiller does assuming the bow isn't ridiculously off tiller.

        Rick

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          #5
          Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
          This is correct, and it does make some difference, but that difference is nothing that can't be overcome with tuning.

          Where & how you place your hand on the grip makes 10 times more difference than tiller does assuming the bow isn't ridiculously off tiller.

          Rick
          Agreed!!!!!! I am shooting a passaround bow off another site right now that the top limb is 1/8" less than the bottom and it still shoots lights out.

          Bisch

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            #6
            The top end is 1/8 different. It's shooting good, just not great yet. I have more work to do on arrow tuning.

            Thanks for the help Rick and Bisch...

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              #7
              Mike, I shoot 3 under, yet even with my adjustable ILF rigs I always wind up right on or close to a 1/8" positive tiller for my best results. Consequently, with my current bow at a 1/8" positive tiller, I can shoot it both 3 under & split finger without changing the tune.

              In other words, I'm betting you can shoot that bow 3 under no problem.

              Rick

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
                Mike, I shoot 3 under, yet even with my adjustable ILF rigs I always wind up right on or close to a 1/8" positive tiller for my best results. Consequently, with my current bow at a 1/8" positive tiller, I can shoot it both 3 under & split finger without changing the tune.

                In other words, I'm betting you can shoot that bow 3 under no problem.

                Rick
                I shoot it split finger and my 14yr old son shoots 3 below. When I stand behind him and watch him shoot, the flight is perfect. Had him shoot a bare shaft, it's perfect. When I shoot it split, I have a small amount of kick. We both have 27" draw. The bow is 57# @28. Shooting 29"heritage 250's. 220 gr on the tip. (Insert and field point)

                I thought maybe I'm pinching with the tab or he is only drawing to 26" and I need go up to heritage 150's.

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                  #9
                  That's not unusual at all.

                  Most of the time there will need to be a little different nocking point height between 3 under & split, with the 3 under being the higher by a tad.

                  The reason for that is - shooting 3 under, you are place your fingers on the string closer to the bottom limb tip, thus gathering more of that bottom limb. This will often, but not always throw the limb timing off some. All you have to do is raise the nocking point to where your finger placement & draw on the string brings the limb timing back to where it needs to be.

                  This is also true of hand placement on the grip as well.
                  Generally the more heel pressure you apply with your hand on the grip, the higher your nocking point will need to be. There again, the heel pressure is lending itself to causing the bottom limb to act stronger throwing the limb timing off. The higher nocking point & finger placement on the string brings that timing back into balance.

                  Hope that made sense.

                  Rick

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                    #10
                    Besides the nock point being a little higher for a 3 under shooter on a split till I will add something that I notice. To me a split tillered bow feels a little different on the draw when shooting 3 under, which of course makes sense due to the fact that the limbs are working a little different. Everyone is a little different on their preferences. Myself, I shoot 3 under and only like a split tiller bow. I am not a fan for how the draw feels on a bow tillered 3 under. Maybe I over analyze things at times, but I know what I like.
                    B

                    P.S. like they said 3 under on a split tiller bow is fine. Just need your nock point a touch higher. I usually set my nock point 1/2" over center for myself. Have gone as high as 5/8" over for proper flight.

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                      #11
                      Rick is 100% right IMO. Grip pressure (high vs. low) and nock height setting can compensate for a lot of variation in tiller.

                      Having said that, the vast majority of shooters aren't good enough to tell the difference anyway, and should never even worry about it.

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                        #12
                        +1^^^^ lol

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