As many of you know I hand forge 99.9% of my knives. I get lots of requests for a build along. So...
Cut off small segments of the spring. I usually start with small 4"-5" segments to make a 10-12" knife
1st heat
straighten the curved cut off
Pretty straight
shaping round stock to flat bar
one down, one to go
time to start forging the blades
shaping the tip on the Utility knife
shaping the tip on the Scalper
Spine side of the blade is thinned a bit, causing the curve you see. The cuttining edge will be on the inside of the curve.
Thinning the cutting edge on the Utility . See? no more curve.
Same thing on the Scalper.
Bevels are forged and now the blades are curved in opposite direction. Time to do a little straightening.
Blades straightened pretty close to final shape. Now time to work on handles
Using the cross peen to stretch out the handle a bit
handles stretched, flattened and shaped
a little detail hammering to get rid of most of the hammer marks on the handles, put my mark on the blades and a few passes on the grinder before normalizng
Break time!
Cut off small segments of the spring. I usually start with small 4"-5" segments to make a 10-12" knife
1st heat
straighten the curved cut off
Pretty straight
shaping round stock to flat bar
one down, one to go
time to start forging the blades
shaping the tip on the Utility knife
shaping the tip on the Scalper
Spine side of the blade is thinned a bit, causing the curve you see. The cuttining edge will be on the inside of the curve.
Thinning the cutting edge on the Utility . See? no more curve.
Same thing on the Scalper.
Bevels are forged and now the blades are curved in opposite direction. Time to do a little straightening.
Blades straightened pretty close to final shape. Now time to work on handles
Using the cross peen to stretch out the handle a bit
handles stretched, flattened and shaped
a little detail hammering to get rid of most of the hammer marks on the handles, put my mark on the blades and a few passes on the grinder before normalizng
Break time!
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