Sizing square tubing for stairs

[RWB]

I need some help from the green screen structural / engineering brain trust. I am going to build a set of stairs like these for my shop but they will pivot at the top so I can winch them up out of the way so I want to limit the weight but want them safe. So my question is what size and thickness square tubing should I use the two side pieces? The length of the tubing will be 14 ft. Thank you for the help.

[ecallarman]

Given that the stairs will only see the weight of a person or two, I would think that 2" X 3/16" or 2" X 1/4" would suffice. Please note that I am not an engineer or structural designer just been in the fabrication business for 20 years. Also, one thing you could also do if you wanted a bit more strength is to get the tubing in A500 grade B which is 50 ksi material as opposed to A36 which is 36 ksi yield.

[scott123456789]

Are you worried about that look? We got stairs for a deer blind made out of c-purloin and it would be much lighter than tubing yet stronger.

[CabezaBlanca]

Are you worried about that look? We got stairs for a deer blind made out of c-purloin and it would be much lighter than tubing yet stronger.

This.

[RWB]

Are you worried about that look? We got stairs for a deer blind made out of c-purloin and it would be much lighter than tubing yet stronger.

Not worried about the look at all as these are just going to be used in the shop to access my storage space. Any thoughts on the size and thickness c-purloin that would work best?

[Big H]

I used 8" c purlin for the sides and step on mine and a cheap harbor freight electric hoist for mine. I made a spring loaded latch at the top to hold the weight until I am ready to lower it.

[Big H]

By the way my stairs are about 12 ft long and I weight over 350 and they are solid.

[DavidH]

I built a stairwell for my son's deer stand out of 6" C purlin --- got the idea from someone on here

[guru27]

I used 8” c pulrin on mine as well and they are solid. I used thick square tube at the top to weld the hinge on, and on the bottom to sit on the floor, it probably would have been fine without that, but I tend err on the side of over building things.

[GrapeApe]

Aluminum I-beam and channel would make it nice and light.

[RWB]

I used 8" c purlin for the sides and step on mine and a cheap harbor freight electric hoist for mine. I made a spring loaded latch at the top to hold the weight until I am ready to lower it.

Thank you very much.....I like the latch idea, how do you reach the latch to release it? I have 16 ft eaves so the latch would be up there.

[guru27]

Thank you very much.....I like the latch idea, how do you reach the latch to release it? I have 16 ft eaves so the latch would be up there.

Mine is only about 9’ tonthe latch, but I just have a rope attached to the handle that easy to reach, and lets you unlatch it.

[Texas Grown]

I'ma guessing someone liked my idea about stairs in the pic above. I built a tower stand for my BNL and nephew two years ago. And guess someone used my idea.








Here's a documented link to the tower build for anyone interested. It's a couple pages.

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613989

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[Texas Grown]

Almost forgot about the OP's question. I used 1" square tube, 14ga., with the 6" ceeperlin. It's more than enough for a man. The more vertical the angle of the ladder, the stronger it will be.

[RWB]

Almost forgot about the OP's question. I used 1" square tube, 14ga., with the 6" ceeperlin. It's more than enough for a man. The more vertical the angle of the ladder, the stronger it will be.

Thank you very much....I really appreciate the input on the actual square tubing you used.