Fixed Broadhead Opinions (Another Broadhead Thread)

[HDWRENCH]

You are not tuning your bow, you are just adjusting your sight for different heads. Search some threads by "Rat". He has written some phenomenal posts on here about tuning.

For me, walk-back tuning has been the easiest, and most efficient way to tune my bow ... but I very seldom take any shots over 30 yards. There are many other methods of tuning and everyone has their favorite. And don't assume that just because you had a shop set your bow up, that it's set up correctly.

Tuning is essentially getting your rest and string lined up perfectly. Once that is done, your arrow will leave straight. You don't see any issues when you're shooting field points, but when you screw on a broad head, the slight problems (of not leaving straight) are amplified. Once you get that arrow to leave the bow perfectly straight, as long as you don't change the weight of the tip, you can shoot whatever broadhead you want and have the same POI.

100% agree I bought my Hoyt from CCA it was shooting great , shoot one more arrow and its all over the place . I took it back they did the free tune up on it and back spot on .. Crazy how it can happen.. I am no boq expert by any means I build Harleys for a living .. So I let the guys that do it every day take care of that ..

Then add in a set up that is off for what ever reason spline inserts etc it can compound the issue for sure

[Arrowsmith]

If you can't get a Slick Trick to fly, your bow has some serious tuning issues.

This ^

You most likely have some horizontal nock travel caused by top cam lean. If you bow has a split yoke system you need to yoke tune. If it does not have a split yoke you need to shim your top cam.

Get a bare shaft hitting the same hole as your field points at 20 and your broad heads will hit with your field points.

You will not get the most efficient arrow flight or penetration until you get this corrected. Your arrow is basically coming off your rest pointed to the right (or left). Your fletchings correct this errant flight with your field point so you hit where you are aiming. The fixed blade broad head will not be totally corrected by the fletchings so you will hit right or left of where your field points are hitting.

There is plenty of info out there. Google "yoke tuning"

[el_tejas_gringo]

You are not tuning your bow, you are just adjusting your sight for different heads. Search some threads by "Rat". He has written some phenomenal posts on here about tuning.

For me, walk-back tuning has been the easiest, and most efficient way to tune my bow ... but I very seldom take any shots over 30 yards. There are many other methods of tuning and everyone has their favorite. And don't assume that just because you had a shop set your bow up, that it's set up correctly.

Tuning is essentially getting your rest and string lined up perfectly. Once that is done, your arrow will leave straight. You don't see any issues when you're shooting field points, but when you screw on a broad head, the slight problems (of not leaving straight) are amplified. Once you get that arrow to leave the bow perfectly straight, as long as you don't change the weight of the tip, you can shoot whatever broadhead you want and have the same POI.

I thought adjusting my sights according to where my arrows were flying was tuning. Ive only been in the archery game for a few years, and that's what I thought tuning was. Then this is probably my problem with slick tricks.

I guess it's true that you learn something new everyday.

[el_tejas_gringo]

[QUOTE=Slick8;13492430]I'm a Ramcat man myself but of those you mentioned I'd be inclined to shoot the tricks.

The bigger question is you say you love mechanical but want to add something more dependable....? QUE?

I never said I wanted a more dependable broadhead. I said I am wanting to add a dependable fixed blade to my quiver topaor with my mechanicals.

I may have to give Ramcats a try though. Looks like they are getting a lot of love!

[Duckologist]

I thought adjusting my sights according to where my arrows were flying was tuning. Ive only been in the archery game for a few years, and that's what I thought tuning was. Then this is probably my problem with slick tricks.

I guess it's true that you learn something new everyday.

No sir, you adjust your rest until your broadheads and field tips are flying the same. THEN you adjust your sight to get back to the bullseye!

[Radar]

I thought adjusting my sights according to where my arrows were flying was tuning. Ive only been in the archery game for a few years, and that's what I thought tuning was. Then this is probably my problem with slick tricks.

I guess it's true that you learn something new everyday.

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/blog/paper-tuning-101/

Do this before you change broadheads. You dont need the fancy kit they advertise, just make a cheap set up out of cardboard and printer paper. I try to have my set up eye level for tuning. I aint no expert at any of this, but there is a lot of wisdom on TBH, you just got filter out the bs.

[Texastaxi]

there is a lot of wisdom on TBH, you just got filter out the bs.

Indeed there is.
If you compiled everything in these forums written on tuning, you'd have a book the size of a dictionary. There are so many guys on here that know SO much about making a bow shoot that it'll make your head spin.

Jacob, here are a FEW posts to get you started on getting your bow shooting well.
Everyone starts where you're at. Don't be afraid to ask questions. There are a more than enough people here to get all the help you need, plus more.

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35929&highlight=tuning

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666138&highlight=tuning

http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581451&highlight=tuning

The first one has been the easiest for me, and since I don't ever shoot that far, if I do a walk back tune to 60 yards, I'll be golden within 40. It's very easy to do, and will help you with the problem you're having.

[HDWRENCH]

I do the walk back method and it works so easy . Never bothered with paper . and to be honest My bow after CCA did the tune was like 99% spot on in fact it most likely was me the shooter vs the bow HA HA .

[Texastaxi]

I do the walk back method and it works so easy . Never bothered with paper . and to be honest My bow after CCA did the tune was like 99% spot on in fact it most likely was me the shooter vs the bow HA HA .

This has been my experience too ... when a COMPETENT shop sets up your bow, it's gonna be close enough for most of us. They do so many, they can get it right, most of the time without even shooting it.

[critter69]

Wow can't believe all the ram cat votes, out of two heads that I have seen fail the most ( brake, lose blades, broken ferrals, while passing through an animal) ram cats are number one. The other is American broadhead sonic and Liberty. I have seen much better performance with that style of head in the exodus. It seems to be a ram cat on steroids. Another head you may look at is ( if you don't mind spending a little money on a great head) are the German kenetics. They have a 125 gr. That's 1 1/2 inches, and a 175 gr. That's an 1 7/8. But very well made. Thats about mech. Size holes from a great fixed blade head.

[Mudslinger]

Wow can't believe all the ram cat votes, out of two heads that I have seen fail the most ( brake, lose blades, broken ferrals, while passing through an animal) ram cats are number one. The other is American broadhead sonic and Liberty. I have seen much better performance with that style of head in the exodus. It seems to be a ram cat on steroids. Another head you may look at is ( if you don't mind spending a little money on a great head) are the German kenetics. They have a 125 gr. That's 1 1/2 inches, and a 175 gr. That's an 1 7/8. But very well made. Thats about mech. Size holes from a great fixed blade head.

Never broken a ferrule, had a few broken blades and I have used them here in TX on whitetail, hogs and exotics, Colorado on a 345" bull elk with 2 full passthrus and in Africa on a lot of Plains game!

Been using Ramcats for a LONG time too!

[kd350]

Wow can't believe all the ram cat votes, out of two heads that I have seen fail the most ( brake, lose blades, broken ferrals, while passing through an animal) ram cats are number one. The other is American broadhead sonic and Liberty. I have seen much better performance with that style of head in the exodus. It seems to be a ram cat on steroids. Another head you may look at is ( if you don't mind spending a little money on a great head) are the German kenetics. They have a 125 gr. That's 1 1/2 inches, and a 175 gr. That's an 1 7/8. But very well made. Thats about mech. Size holes from a great fixed blade head.

Same here with them breaking. They are okay until they snap at the insert. These are two different heads with the same results





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[Terry]

G-5 Stryker and DRT

[Duckologist]

G-5 Stryker and DRT

I wasn't impressed with the stryker blood trails.

[Mudslinger]

Same here with them breaking. They are okay until they snap at the insert. These are two different heads with the same results

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What are you guys hitting after a shot or during the shot? Like I have said on many occasions, I have used these heads for a long, long time and I have shot a bunch of critters, missed some critters and I have neve ever broken a ferrule. I am not shooting a light arrow either so mine are packing a pretty good punch, 420 to 595 grains aver the years being shot out of a 70# bow @ 29". These statement really baffle me. Not saying it did not happen, but after all I have done with them it has never happened to me.