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    Floating anchor point?

    I was watching a archery video yesterday to try to improve my form and I believe the guy mentioned my problem, I have a floating anchor point.
    By this I mean I do not use a kisser button nor do I center the string on my nose so I am going to be off just a little everytime I shoot.
    When I got home last night the first thing I did was pull back my bow to see where the string is when I am at full draw and the string is beside my nose.
    If I align the string in the center of my nose I cannot see thru the peep if I am holding at my anchor point on my jaw.

    What do I need to do to get to where I can shoot with the string in center of my nose and still be able to see thru peep?
    Would a hand held release help this?

    #2
    It would help if someone could take a pic when you are at full draw and include it.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by az2tx View Post
      It would help if someone could take a pic when you are at full draw and include it.
      I will see what I can do,might be difficult since I live alone.

      Comment


        #4
        I shoot the same way. I am on an archery only lease and when the other guys watched me shoot they informed me I have terrible form. I learned to shoot by myself and never really knew correct form. Fortunately, poor form and all, I am one of the best shots out there. So unless you are having accuracy problems, I wouldn't worry to much.

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          #5
          Originally posted by ChrisB View Post
          I shoot the same way. I am on an archery only lease and when the other guys watched me shoot they informed me I have terrible form. I learned to shoot by myself and never really knew correct form. Fortunately, poor form and all, I am one of the best shots out there. So unless you are having accuracy problems, I wouldn't worry to much.
          Same here, I just started trying to shoot without knowing anything and I mean anything. I can remember trying to anchor on my chin,LOL

          Comment


            #6
            I agree, I've been shooting for over 35 years without any problems with a floating anchor. I've shot 300, 60x's with a floating anchor. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if your shooting ok now.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tree stand View Post
              I agree, I've been shooting for over 35 years without any problems with a floating anchor. I've shot 300, 60x's with a floating anchor. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it if your shooting ok now.
              I am barely a decent shot. I rarely ever shoot what would be considered a group.

              Comment


                #8
                This is my un-educated, yet very experianced opinion- you bow isn't setup correctly. 3 things, either the draw is too long or too short, or your peep/d-loop is in the incorrect position.

                You should draw to the wall, along with tree stands comment. Actual anchor point isn't as important as the string hitting your chin and nose while looking through the peep. This probably isn't the correct term- triangulation, the triangle from the bow to your face, and your face to the string isn't correct. There is also the triangle formed by your drawing arm as well as your bow arm.

                Simple huh?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Razorback01 View Post
                  This is my un-educated, yet very experianced opinion- you bow isn't setup correctly. 3 things, either the draw is too long or too short, or your peep/d-loop is in the incorrect position.

                  You should draw to the wall, along with tree stands comment. Actual anchor point isn't as important as the string hitting your chin and nose while looking through the peep. This probably isn't the correct term- triangulation, the triangle from the bow to your face, and your face to the string isn't correct. There is also the triangle formed by your drawing arm as well as your bow arm.

                  Simple huh?
                  I agree, go have the bow set up for you. When I started, I would buy a used bow and start shooting it. I would adjust my form to fit the bow. I could hit that way but wasn't very consistant. I bought a new bow, and had it set up correctly for me and my shooting went to a brand new level

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks I believe you both are correct. I will be taking a trip to a bow shop as soon as I can.
                    I wish there was a New Breed dealer close just in case the draw length needs to be changed and I have a feeling it will need to be changed.
                    Might just buy a new bow.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Shorter A to A bows sometimes make it tough to touch the string to your nose. The trend lately is toward such bows. The older , longer bows were easier to get a good nose to string contact IMO. I switched to a kisser because of that several years ago. That may help you get a repeatable anchor point.

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                        #12
                        An anchor point is not the goal. The goal is to have an anchor point that allows you to have the same sight picture on every shot. You can have no anchor point and still group if you have the same sight picture on every shot. You can have a solid anchor and have poor groups if you have a different sight picture on every shot.
                        One of the keys is to have the same procedure on every shot. Draw, anchor, acquire your sight picture and paint it over your target.
                        That is easy if your set-up fits you properly. Mostly refering to Draw length and peep height. The peep height is best determined by drawing at 30 to 40 yards and anchoring with your eyes closed. When you open your eyes you move the peep till your sight is centered in it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The anchor point is like a cheek weld on a rifle, all the parts need to fit to achieve accuracy. Now accuracy is relevant, for some with a rifle putting 5 shots in a basketball at 200 yards is great, to some putting 5 shots into a tennis ball at 500 is acceptable.

                          I've seen the same thing with a bow, some think a 6 inch group at 20 yards is good enough, some shoot 2 inch groups at 80 yards. Which one do you think has a better fit, form and anchor point?

                          I have a lot of hunters come thru the ranch every year and the majority of them shoot a bow that doesn't fit them, most have draw lengths that are too long. I did the same thing until I was in my mid thirty's and started hanging out with world class archers.
                          I went from 31" to 29.5"

                          This is what a proper anchor looks like and you can't do it unless you are shooting a bow that fits
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by az2tx View Post
                            The anchor point is like a cheek weld on a rifle, all the parts need to fit to achieve accuracy. Now accuracy is relevant, for some with a rifle putting 5 shots in a basketball at 200 yards is great, to some putting 5 shots into a tennis ball at 500 is acceptable.

                            I've seen the same thing with a bow, some think a 6 inch group at 20 yards is good enough, some shoot 2 inch groups at 80 yards. Which one do you think has a better fit, form and anchor point?

                            I have a lot of hunters come thru the ranch every year and the majority of them shoot a bow that doesn't fit them, most have draw lengths that are too long. I did the same thing until I was in my mid thirty's and started hanging out with world class archers.
                            I went from 31" to 29.5"

                            This is what a proper anchor looks like and you can't do it unless you are shooting a bow that fits
                            Thanks for posting this. I have no doubt now that I need to change my draw length. I guess the only way to know what draw length to set it at is to shoot bows with different draw lengths

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Fordman View Post
                              Thanks for posting this. I have no doubt now that I need to change my draw length. I guess the only way to know what draw length to set it at is to shoot bows with different draw lengths
                              The best way is to have someone who truly knows how to fit a bow help you, the problem is most of the guys in the pro shops don't do this.

                              So many people are onto speed these days so if they have someone who buys a bow with an IBO speed of 340 fps and the guy only really has a 27 inch and shoot 265 fps with 400 grain arrow he want to know where all the speed went.
                              So a lot of guys want to shoot longer draws for more speed.

                              Look on line, there are some formulas that will get you close, you can also look at the form pro shooters use.

                              Comment

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