The build of 289 cubic inches of awesomeness

[Brooks]

My very good friend Paul has a 1966 Mustang. This car is being completely restored. It started as floor pan replacements and escalated from there. This is the car as it sits today waiting for the engine.

Car came with a 289 2 barrel auto. We are keeping the 289 but ditching the auto and the 2 barrel.

A ton of work has gone into the car at this point but I am focusing on the engine build in this thread.

Monday we should start the engine build. It will be an overview mostly because there are so many details when building an engine.

[Texas Stalker]

That's gonna be sweeeeet!

[Bowtech38]

Could build it after the shelby 289 used in the hertz rent a racer.

[TexasandKansas]

I wish this was in the classifieds instead of the DIY forum. Looks sharp

[Brooks]

I wish this was in the classifieds instead of the DIY forum. Looks sharp

I could be wrong but Im pretty sure he will never sell it and if he does he will come to me first… so sorry.

[thorshammer]

Tuned in.

[Ride_Klein]

That's cooler than a 50 lb block of ice. Thanks for sharing

[Fooshman]

Fun times.

I need to get mine going, but the problem is mine ain't going without some turbos on it.

[Brooks]

Fun times.

I need to get mine going, but the problem is mine ain't going without some turbos on it.

I have a feeling this car will have enough power for my good friend.

[Brooks]

Ok today we go the short block built.

We started with gapping the rings.

We are using Keith Black pistons and by there instructions the top ring has to be gapped .0065 x the bore (4.030) .026195". We shot for .0265.

With the rings prepped and installed it was on to cleaning the block. It needs to be surgically clean. You can't ever get it too clean. Did I mention the block needs to be CLEAN.

[BIGTERRY75]

Nice car.

[Brooks]

Cleaned with soap and water then the cylinders are wiped down with ATF to get any left behind dirt and to keep the metal from flash rusting.

Cleaned and dried now ready for assembly.

[Brooks]

Time to install crankshaft. We have ARP main studs and crank bore has been line honed so we don't expect any issues here. Crank was dropped in (not literally) then main caps put into place and nuts were hand tightened. The thrust bearing set and all caps were torqued to spec. Crank spins freely

[bobc]

Gonna be nice! I'm in so I can see y'all make it look easy. Hell, I hate changing a starter.

[Brooks]

Time for some pistons all 8. 8 pistons in a 90' V configuration makes music to my ears. I use short sections of fuel line to cover the rod bolts and keep from scratching the rod journals of the crank. A small nick seems inconsequential but it can have detrimental effects on the engine.

As we get ready to torque to rod bolts notice we have both rods installed and a feeler gauge in between them to take up the slack. This is to keep the rod square and not displace the bearings during the torque process.