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Need Carbon Arrow Guru Help

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    Need Carbon Arrow Guru Help

    Ok my bows are 55# @ 28". My draw is just under 27" so I'm drawing between 50-52 lbs. My arrows are 29 1/4" Gold Tip Traditionals 3555 with the standard Gold Tip insert and 240 grains up front counting the points. That makes my total arrow weight 530 grains. These things shoot like darts out of my longbow but I'm having trouble getting them to fly correctly out of my recurve. My recurve is quite a bit faster than my longbow so I'm wondering if I need to go with a stiffer arrow? I have played with the brace height from 7" all the way up to 8.5" but it shoots better at 8". I really don't want to use less weight in the tips because I would like to stay around the 10 gpp for better penetration. Could it be possible that I need to go with 5575 with only drawing 50-52#?
    Last edited by Featherflinger; 06-01-2012, 11:36 AM.

    #2
    I have some 5575 that you can try....I think they will work

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      #3
      You could go to a lighter, yes I said lighter and stiffer arrow and bump your tip weight and your tw should be somewhere close to what you have now only your foc will be increased dramatically

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        #4
        I shoot 50# @ my 29 1/2" DL and I use 55/75's cut to 30 1/2" with 250 up front. Total arrow weight is 517 and they shoot bullet holes through paper.

        Everyone is different and what works for one guy will not for another. the only way to know for sure is to try a couple and see.

        Bisch

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          #5
          And I would say the 5575 would be a better arrow based on what your describing.

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            #6
            If 480 grains is perfect for a 48# bow , then why wouldn't it be even better from a 53# bow? Faster arrow , less drop. That 10 gpp gets blown way out of proportion. I have had more pass throughs since dropping to 7.5 gpp I still have 21% foc as well

            I would drop 25 grains and see if it straightens up.

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              #7
              If you don't have it, do a google search for Stu Millers Dynamic Spine Chart. I am still playing with it and learning the in's and out's of that program, but several people who recommended it to me said it takes quite a bit of guess work out and gets the just about spot on.

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                #8
                I've got a buddy with some 5575s close to the weight of my current ones that I'm going to try. I guess my main concern with the weight is that I don't want to have to make huge adjustments going from my longbow shooting 530 grains to my recurve shooting a totally different weight. I know my longbow shoots perfect at 530 grains and I get some wabble at 520 grains. So if I have to shoot 2 completely different sets of arrows then ideally I'd like to keep them close together. I appreciate the input. I'm glad I'm at least thinking on the right track.

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                  #9
                  I found the link for you:

                  This calculator was developed to aid the traditional archer in defining the appropriate arrow setup to match a given bow design.  That formulas are derived primarily from modern deflex/reflex longbow and recurve designs based on actual shooting experience coupled with basic engineering principles. 

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                    #10
                    Try putting 145 grain points on your 3555 and they should fly fine out of your recurve. If you want to keep the high FOC you will need to go to 5575. Or you could pad your shelf on your recurve.

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                      #11
                      Ok I'm trying the least expensive way first. I decided to replace the insert (11.4 gr) and 140grains of weights with just a 100 grain insert since I already had a dozen. That will make it 200 grains up front including the point and 480.6 total. They actually shoot really well out of both bows. I'm not sure why they shoot good out of my longbow now and they didn't before but we'll see how it goes. I also have some 125 grain points (505.6 total) I'm going to try as well. So much for the simplicity of shooting traditional bows.

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                        #12
                        Yep, if you don't want to reduce point weight, you're gonna have to bump up in spine.

                        Rick

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                          #13
                          i also use stu milles arrow spine calculator! works quiet well for me. everytime i tried it it was very close! For finetuning i use bareshaft and paper tuning...

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