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My 2nd TD Recurve Build

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    My 2nd TD Recurve Build

    About this time last year I build my first bow. If you do a search you can find the thread. It was a learning process with many mistakes made along the way. In the end the bow shot well....right up until I had an area of the lower limb delam. There were some small suspicious foggy spots on the limb that I was not sure the cause of. One of them grew slowly and eventually caused the limb to fail. My guess is that the problem was caused by using an oil based stain on the laminations. I wiped them down well with alcohol after staining and no residue showed on a white rag but apparently it was a bad idea. Now I know.

    So it was time to try again so I could take a diy bow on our elk hunt this year. I tried to apply everything I learned last time and push myself for a better end product.

    This bow would be made from some walnut I got at an estate sale and some maple I cut in chandler, tx. Once again the bow would be essentially a copy of a bob lee. This time even more so than last time. For this bow I build a form based off of a bob lee limb.

    I built the form to utilize clamps rather than a fire hose. Some people have great results with this but I can't say I loved it. I have fire hose now to use on the next build. I actually had one limb that was note useable due to some micro bubbles under the glass in the deep part of the curve. I had to order more glass, grind more lams, add another clamp to the curve and try again.

    The last bow I built I had felix40 order all of the supplies (except riser wood) from binghams for me. This build, I ripped and ground my own lams on a homemade lam grinder that I frankensteined from craftsman 4x36. I also made a jig to cut wedges on the table saw. j

    These limbs I used parallel lams rather than a parallel and a taper. Why? Well because as best as I could tell with a micrometer, bob lee uses parallels. I based my stack off of measuring a 49# limb and a 58# limb and figuring out the measurement per #. I added the what was needed to the 58# measurement for a target weight of 64#s.

    I did not have any walnut large enough to make a riser from one solid piece so I laminated 3 together.
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    #2
    I decided to make things difficult and do a radiused inlay on this riser, so I laid out some lines.
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      #3
      I cut the radius on the bandsaw, saving the line, and then went to the line with my frankensander/ lam grinder/ edge sander. This was a very time consuming process. Playing a game of thousandths by hand is very frustrating. The results I quit at were not perfect but plenty good enough for me. Next time I will use a router table and jigs.
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        #4
        Here is the final block glued up and cleaned up.
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          #5
          Now it is time to cut the limb pads where the limbs will bolt on. I built a sled for the tablesaw from mdf with mahogany runners. It is very simple and works well. To get the pads where I wanted in relation to the curves, I used spacers against the jig fence.
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            #6
            I decided to put some maple overlays on the pad areas. The decision was mainly cosmetic but it will also strengthen the riser. I used the wedges cut off as a counter angle to give me parallel clamping surfaces to attach limb pads. I attached them to the rear of the riser with a couple small drops of super glue. Afterwards they can just be knocked off with a sharp blow.
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              #7
              Riser block cleaned up
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                #8
                starting to look like something
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                  #9
                  Holes were drilled and tapped for inserts. Inserts were installed and then I started shaping the riser. I do majority of shaping with a dremel and a 4 way file.
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                    #10
                    Looking good!

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                      #11
                      Let's jump to the limbs. I ripped lams to about 1/8 inch on table saw and then ground them from there. My setup is very primitive. I do not have a micro adjust fence. I clamp the fence on one side and then make tiny marks in front of it. I make a couple of passes and then advance it a mark or a half a mark. I check how much it is changing with micrometer. When I get close to desired thickness, I start removing material in very small increments. The last few thousandths I walked in by making multiple passes at the same setting.

                      God sure makes pretty wood.
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                        #12
                        Looking good! Following

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                          #13
                          I won't bore you with glue application and lamination

                          wrong pic somehow
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                            #14
                            Awesome!!! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

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                              #15
                              Not a bad forgery
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