Another knife again.

[Bjankowski]

Drop Point Hunter
1084 carbon steel tempered to 58rc 5/32 thick. 7 3/4 OAL the blade is 3 1/4 with my textured finish, thumb jimping on the spine. The handle is black and gray G-10 with Red liners and the scales are fastened with one 5/16 brass corby bolt, and ¼ in flared brass tube making the tube also a mechanical fastener. I don’t like to use pins, they are subject to fail as a mechanical faster is there forever. Handmade leather sheath with tooling. It is razor sharp.

[8pointer]

Looks good

[bps3040]

Nice

[Tomkat70]

Sweet blade

[Mofo]

I'm interested if it is for sale

[R Herline Jr]

good job on a nice knife

[thorshammer]

Really like the red liner choice. Very nice sir.

[Bjankowski]

I'm interested if it is for sale

Yes I have it listed on the classifieds; all my knives are for sale, I've had Jank Custom knives over 20 years.
PM sent

[Mofo]

I just sale the ad. I sent you a pm

[SamHarper]

That's really sharp! (I made a punny!) I like that one even better than the last.

When you say you used the bolt and tube as fastners, does that mean you didn't use any epoxy or anything?

What exactly is that textured finish?

If you have two steels with the same Rockwell hardness, but one has more carbon content than the other (e.g. 1080 vs. 1095), will they also have the same toughness? I'm a little confused about this because everything I've read has said the advantage of more carbon is that it makes harder steel. But if the object of tempering is to reach a particular hardness, and if you can do that with a range of different steels with different carbon content, then what difference does it make whether you use 1080 or 1095?

Say that you harden two slabs of steel--one is 1080 and the other is 1095, and assume they both got fully hardened in the quench. Then, say you temper them both at the same temperature for the same amount of time. Will they both have the same hardness in the end? Or would you need to temper the 1095 at a higher temperature than the 1080 to get them both to the same hardness?

[Bjankowski]

That's really sharp! (I made a punny!) I like that one even better than the last.

When you say you used the bolt and tube as fastners, does that mean you didn't use any epoxy or anything?

What exactly is that textured finish?

If you have two steels with the same Rockwell hardness, but one has more carbon content than the other (e.g. 1080 vs. 1095), will they also have the same toughness? I'm a little confused about this because everything I've read has said the advantage of more carbon is that it makes harder steel. But if the object of tempering is to reach a particular hardness, and if you can do that with a range of different steels with different carbon content, then what difference does it make whether you use 1080 or 1095?

Say that you harden two slabs of steel--one is 1080 and the other is 1095, and assume they both got fully hardened in the quench. Then, say you temper them both at the same temperature for the same amount of time. Will they both have the same hardness in the end? Or would you need to temper the 1095 at a higher temperature than the 1080 to get them both to the same hardness?

Sam Bolts are exactly what they are BOLTS, they screw together, my tubes are flared so they hold tight making them a mechanical fastener... and yes my liners and scales are all epoxied. I hate 1/8 pins you can peen them and they are still a poor fastener. They make small corby bolts look just like pins... As far as textured finish; I can't tell you how I do that, I'd have to kill you if I told you. It's something that I've learned over the years and it's penetrated with hot bluing, I won't share that, it's something I do different than anyone else.

I don't have time to answer your temper questions, I suggest you read some materials on metallurgy it's a pretty complex question that requires some specific and technical answers.

Metallurgy is the most overlooked and the most important element in knife making new and some old timers do not have a clue about so they are basically putting out JUNK that look like knives.

[SamHarper]

Thanks for sparing my life, Bjankowski! :-) I don't want to know now!

I've been reading a ton of stuff on metallurgy lately. Interesting stuff. Haven't gotten an answer to my questions yet, which of course that could be because I haven't understood everything I've read.

Thanks!

[Bjankowski]

Thanks for sparing my life, Bjankowski! :-) I don't want to know now!

I've been reading a ton of stuff on metallurgy lately. Interesting stuff. Haven't gotten an answer to my questions yet, which of course that could be because I haven't understood everything I've read.

Thanks!

Yes and no; each steel has and you know different properties so one may require a higher or lower tempering temp depending on how each element reacts to heat... I have worked with so many different steels that I know that when I'm fully quenched at 65 or + Rc, I know how long to temp each one. Best thing to do is record each of the steels you work with and occasionally breaking a blade in half after tempering to make sure there isn't any grain growth in your process.

[paintman]

Nice bob