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Need help with fireplace smoking

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    #31
    Originally posted by PEC View Post
    Check damper position ( i know that sounds lame). Most inserts have an inlet air. Should look like a dryer vent outside. Make sure that is not plugged by a rat or bird nest. Triple and double insulated pipe takes a bit to get warm. So start with small fire and doors nearly closed.
    I know exactly the inlet you are referring to and it is on the right side of the brick. I have no even looked at it to see if it is open. Thanks for your help.

    The house was built in 2007 and the fire place had never been used when we moved in.

    It does not have doors, just the wire screen things.

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      #32
      Originally posted by pyrobow View Post
      Not unusual for a fire brick fire place to smoke the first couple of minutes, until the heat gets a good draft started. Start your fire at the back of the box until it warms up a little. That should take up the start up smoke.

      If you house is sealed up good that will cause it to smoke a little. 70's houses are not usually sealed that tight but you might try a slight opening of a window to relieve the vacuum created by a sealed house.

      The rule of thumb on chimney height is 2' above the peak or 2' above the closest roof structure within 10' level. This can vary because of trees of terrain around the house
      This has been my fix. I crack the back door slightly for the first 5 minutes of the fire going and no longer have an issue. It used to be bad. Smoke detectors going off and such. Once I cracked the door I've yet to have the problem.

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        #33
        Thanks fellas I really appreciate all of the suggestions. Learning has occurred! I am going to:
        * start the fire at the back of the fireplace (I had been doing it in the front)
        * slightly open a window
        * make sure the fire gets hot quickly

        Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
        Everyone so far is at least a little bit right.

        If your fireplace is a real masonry (made out of fire brick with a smoke shelf and steel damper) then it will have clay flue tile chimney liner. If the opening is 36" those flue tiles should be 13"X13", if it's 42" they should be 13"X17". In Wilco you will probably have to get them from Acme. I have stacked them on top before and secured with Liquid Nails Const. Adhesive. Need to establish that that is the type FP you have first though.
        I will check on this. Thanks a bunch for your help. So extending the flue will give it a better chance of having a good draft, right? I just left a message for Rusty at Acme.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Mayhem View Post
          I know exactly the inlet you are referring to and it is on the right side of the brick. I have no even looked at it to see if it is open. Thanks for your help.

          The house was built in 2007 and the fire place had never been used when we moved in.

          It does not have doors, just the wire screen things.
          Fireplaces NEVER draw as good on the north side of the house. I don't know why, but the all of the worst ones I ever worked were on the north side of the house.

          I don't care what the 10/2 rule says, that flue is not tall enough for your house.

          There should be a little lever inside your fireplace on one side or the other to open the outside air....but they rarely help.

          Nearby trees make everything worse.

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            #35
            Originally posted by 35remington View Post
            Thanks fellas I really appreciate all of the suggestions. Learning has occurred! I am going to:
            * start the fire at the back of the fireplace (I had been doing it in the front)
            * slightly open a window
            * make sure the fire gets hot quickly



            I will check on this. Thanks a bunch for your help. So extending the flue will give it a better chance of having a good draft, right? I just left a message for Rusty at Acme.
            Yes. The advice about building your fire at the back is sound, also clean out the ash before, and build your fire on top of the wood rack.

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              #36
              We tried several things...ended up putting a chimney fan on it. It was combination of chimney north side of house and not tall enough. Cost some money but works.

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                #37
                I believe the 10/2 rule has more to do with potential sparks exiting the flue than drafting. Actually, it's a 3/10/2 rule: must extend 3 feet above the roof penetration on the shortest side, and the top of the chimney must be 2 feet higher than any portion of the building structure within 10 feet. Need a fast, hot fire to start and a window open a little.

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                  #38

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