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Old 06-06-2017, 04:26 PM   #1
Shake N' Bake
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Default Metal Roof.. Am I crazy????

I'm probably going to attempt to put a metal roof on my house with the help of a buddy or 3. It's a square double wide and square roof, no gables or anything. The roof does have one layer of shingles which I'm planning on leaving and going over. The roof has a few spots that are slightly sagging.

I've called and got prices and I t looks like I stand to save around $1500 - $2000 of I do it myself. I'm pretty hand and a DIY guy, I've built my own shop but this will be a first for me.

Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated!
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:34 PM   #2
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Pop plenty of chalk lines and pull plenty of string lines, once you get out of square it's a PIA.
If your going to run stringers on top of the shingles make sure you leave some gaps every few feet so any moisture has a way to drain out and not build up.
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:46 PM   #3
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Well, you got the handle for it ! You gonna bake in the daytime and have the shakes at night !
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fox1 View Post
Pop plenty of chalk lines and pull plenty of string lines, once you get out of square it's a PIA.

If your going to run stringers on top of the shingles make sure you leave some gaps every few feet so any moisture has a way to drain out and not build up.


Stringers are the plan. Thanks for the advice!
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:41 PM   #5
captainsling
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For $1500-$2000 savings I would hire it done.
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:49 PM   #6
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For $1500-$2000 savings I would hire it done.
This, for 2k let the professionals handle it. That little cash is worth the warranty alone
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Old 06-06-2017, 11:42 PM   #7
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saving 2k isnt worth the work and hassle. let the pros do it. 5k savings would be worth messing with
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:13 AM   #8
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This, for 2k let the professionals handle it. That little cash is worth the warranty alone
Don't think you would get a warranty going over the shingles would you?
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:21 AM   #9
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How pro are the pros? if they just some good old boys then you can do what they do. If they just good old boys there probably is no warranty.

Stringers are the way to go to gain a little air space in between old shingles and new metal, but you have to use the eave and rake trim to seal it all up and make it water tight and looking good again. When metal roofs fail, they usually peal off in a high wind in one piece. We have all seen the videos..... some how you have to make every attempt to fasten the stringers blindly through the shingles and into the framing of the trailer. Probably use a ring shank nail on the stringers at the same time for max grip.

Go on the Mueller INc web site and dig through there literature. Look for a install manual and read the thing front to rear. Most of it will probably not apply for you, buy at the same time it will give you the best understanding of what time to use and how to fasten it. Look at there screw patters and spacing for sure! There is a reason for everything they do!

Make sure and find a good foam closer or ridge vent for under the ridge. I have seen rain blow up a 12/12 pitched roof when the wind and rain is just right. It would be a nightmare on a low pitch trailer roof.

your probably going to cut your electric bill by 1/3 if done correctly.
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:59 AM   #10
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I'd strip it down to the deck, refelt it and then lay your 1x4's down. If it's already sagging you don't want to add more weight to it. I have known some guys to lay sheets of foam board down under the paneling. Just remember to spend some time get the first sheet down correctly and then check every one. You can do it. It's not rocket science.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:32 AM   #11
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Simple roof line roof is easy to do. My dad and I did my roof and it was 40sq. We went with galvalume r panel from Mueller. They said going over shingle was fine for r-panel but not for standing seam. They do have a good install guide. There are lots of good videos on youtube showing how to do it. If you are doing r-panel, it will go up very fast.

I went with Mueller because I only knew of Mueller. They are expensive compared to other companies is what I have learned. I think my materials list was $3500 for the 40sq
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:47 AM   #12
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Recently had a standing seam put on my house. ~26 squares or so. Materials were less than 33%. I paid for the materials out of pocket then payed the installer when completed.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:21 PM   #13
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Recently had a standing seam put on my house. ~26 squares or so. Materials were less than 33%. I paid for the materials out of pocket then payed the installer when completed.
This makes a lot of sense.
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Old 06-07-2017, 03:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake N' Bake View Post
I'm probably going to attempt to put a metal roof on my house with the help of a buddy or 3. It's a square double wide and square roof, no gables or anything. The roof does have one layer of shingles which I'm planning on leaving and going over. The roof has a few spots that are slightly sagging.

I've called and got prices and I t looks like I stand to save around $1500 - $2000 of I do it myself. I'm pretty hand and a DIY guy, I've built my own shop but this will be a first for me.

Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated!
e Teeter; wee 6z6xs

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Old 06-07-2017, 04:35 PM   #15
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e Teeter; wee 6z6xs

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Butt dial. Haha

Thanks for all the input!
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Old 06-07-2017, 04:49 PM   #16
Chuck Webb
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I did this on a 1997 trailer home. Over shingles with screeds. R panel, galvalume. House is much cooler too. Shingle folks said don't do it, that the roof needed to breathe. BS
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:22 PM   #17
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I recently had a metal roof installed. Bought the R panel from Mueller, they sent a guy out to measure and figured exactly what I needed. Had another guy take off the shingles and tarpaper, install new underlayment, treated 2x4 stringers, foam board, and metal. Couldn't be happier with it.
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:56 PM   #18
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Default Metal Roof.. Am I crazy????

I'm no expert but have put on a couple metal roofs. You should have no problems if a few considerations are done correctly. Putting your stringers on the right length apart. All depends on thickness of sheeting. Second is to make sure when you put stringers on that they go into the structural support members of the original roof. Use long deck screws. Third is to make sure the first metal panel is square with your house since the reveals at the edge will show. You can get out of square or adjust but each sheet is like 1/16-1/18 increments. Make sure you order panels precut to correct size. There is a tack strip to join the panels together to keep panels together. Fourth have a ridge vent as you will be capping last. Before capping bend top of the flat areas 90 degrees from ground with bull nose pliers. This helps a lot to keep rain water from being blown over the ridge cap. Predrill laps on sheets where they lap. When screwing down the sheets don't over tighten or burn the rubber gasket.

Three people should be plenty to do this in two days. One person on the ground and two up top.
IMO the these are the most important factors.

Last edited by triple_duece; 06-07-2017 at 06:00 PM..
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:58 PM   #19
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I put the metal roof on my house and saved around $6500 from the best quote that I got from the so called professionals.
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:38 AM   #20
Shake N' Bake
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I'm planning on putting the roof up the weekend of July 8th and 9th.
Couple more questions.

Between the ridge and the eve how far apart should I space the 1x4 Stringers?

Should the 1x4s be treated?
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:11 AM   #21
Joe H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake N' Bake View Post
I'm planning on putting the roof up the weekend of July 8th and 9th.
Couple more questions.

Between the ridge and the eve how far apart should I space the 1x4 Stringers?

Should the 1x4s be treated?
I have heard that the new treated wood reacts with the metal and will cause it to fail

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Old 06-16-2017, 01:06 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake N' Bake View Post
I'm planning on putting the roof up the weekend of July 8th and 9th.
Couple more questions.

Between the ridge and the eve how far apart should I space the 1x4 Stringers?

Should the 1x4s be treated?
Matt Risinger (builder out of Austin) uses regular 1x4's not treated. Im not sure of exact spacing but look at the metal manufacturers screw spacing recommendation. That will give you an idea.

Check out his video...it doesnt say spacing but you can get the idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OB94meyqZNk
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Old 06-16-2017, 08:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake N' Bake View Post
I'm planning on putting the roof up the weekend of July 8th and 9th.
Couple more questions.

Between the ridge and the eve how far apart should I space the 1x4 Stringers?

Should the 1x4s be treated?
Use regular 1x4s. If you use treated and don't use the proper screws that are coated for treated lumber they will rust out over time due the chemicals in the treated lumber.
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Old 06-16-2017, 09:03 PM   #24
Shake N' Bake
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Originally Posted by TxTechBowhunter View Post
Use regular 1x4s. If you use treated and don't use the proper screws that are coated for treated lumber they will rust out over time due the chemicals in the treated lumber.


Thanks! I didn't know that.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:12 PM   #25
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I don't know how many I've done on trailers. It's easy man, just take your time and measure ahead on every sheet. Make 3' center mark at the top and bottom and cheat the sheets ahead or back as needed. As mentioned, use standard #2 1x4's and not treated. Screw them down with 2" deck screws so that it goes through the 1x4, and all the way through the decking. Use 2" again on the roof screws. Cinch them down until the neoprene washer expands but don't over tighten. If and when you do strip one, mark it with a pencil and put come silicone caulking around the screw head. One step that a lot of people don't do is sweep the roof when you're finished. That'll get the small metal shavings off and keep it from rusting around the screw head and causing potential leaks in the future. If you're using R panel DO NOT forget the seal tape on top of the highs at the laps.

The biggest issue that you'll likely face is cutting out around the vents in the roof. Measure several times and take your time when you cut with snips. Caulk around it when finished. Take a piece of the cut off tin to Lowes and match it as close as you can and paint the caulking.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:01 PM   #26
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Did you ever do this?
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:10 PM   #27
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Did you ever do this?
Not yet. I was gearing up to do it in July and realized that was one of my dumber ideas so I decided to hold off and do it after deer season. I've done all the research and gotten prices and I feel pretty comfortable about doing it.

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Old 12-05-2017, 10:34 PM   #28
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Done a couple the same way, piece of cake.
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