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Arrow what do i change

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    Arrow what do i change

    A few months before we moved i was working on an arrow set up for my samick sage 45@28"
    Ive never put a scale to it, and i know these bows can be off.
    I bought the gold tip traditional tuning kit with 4 arrows.
    Before my target got destroyed and we moved i had started to settle on this set up.
    28" 3555 gold tip traditional so 240.8 grains
    165 Eskimo Broadhead
    Insert with 15 or 20 grain weights added
    3 right helical feathers
    This set up seemed to produce the best flight from what i could tell. But foc and dynamic spine calculators say this set uo is wrong by alot. Am i missi g somethin?

    #2
    Your arrows are cut to your exact draw? Or are you drawing less then 28". Because most of those 3555 and 5575 etc. are spined at the higher number. So 180 up front reduces spine by 15 or so, so if your arrows are 55 dropped down to 40 and your not pulling a full 28 that means the draw weight is less so it is a perfect match. If it shoots well then don't worry about the calculators, those are just theory.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Tracker0721 View Post
      Your arrows are cut to your exact draw? Or are you drawing less then 28". Because most of those 3555 and 5575 etc. are spined at the higher number. So 180 up front reduces spine by 15 or so, so if your arrows are 55 dropped down to 40 and your not pulling a full 28 that means the draw weight is less so it is a perfect match. If it shoots well then don't worry about the calculators, those are just theory.
      Thanks. When i ordered the arrows i didnt realize cutting them down would be part of the tuning process and i also didnt have a way to cut them down. I ordered the arrows and had them cut to 1" past the shelf.
      I went to tuning from there.
      Thanks for the heads up about the calculators, one of my jobs involves getting parts to within .001" or less and i tend to try to.get other things exact that dont really need to be.

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        #4
        Which calculator did you use? I used the one on 3rivers and it's pretty gosh darn close matching up my samick to the arrows I chose. The arrow charts themselves were way off. The 3rivers calculator took into account the center cut of the riser, the string, draw length, etc.

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          #5
          At the risk of annoying the engineers and scientists in the crowd, it's just not that precise. If your arrow is going where you're looking when you release it at a decent hunting distance 15 - 20 yards, the balance point is about 2/3rds of the way down the shaft and the total weight is giving you 9 to 11 gr per pound of draw, you're good and should stop tinkering. Now if you want to be the IBO world champion there's more to the arrow tuning than that, but if you want to be a hunter or shoot 3D for fun, leave it where it is. Don't let perfection become the enemy of successful function.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Fuzzy Dog View Post
            At the risk of annoying the engineers and scientists in the crowd, it's just not that precise. If your arrow is going where you're looking when you release it at a decent hunting distance 15 - 20 yards, the balance point is about 2/3rds of the way down the shaft and the total weight is giving you 9 to 11 gr per pound of draw, you're good and should stop tinkering. Now if you want to be the IBO world champion there's more to the arrow tuning than that, but if you want to be a hunter or shoot 3D for fun, leave it where it is. Don't let perfection become the enemy of successful function.
            So VERY true. All the calculators are models and some do and don't account for alot of the variables involved. And even so, they can't account for you! As an engineer, just remember, it's a model.

            It reminds me alot of engineering an antenna. There are some really good modeling apps out there, but at the end of the day, they can't model the building and soil that sit underneath that radiating element and if you cut it according to the model, you'll be dissapointed when you can't get that stupid wire and transmission line to tune. But then again, you should be happy when you get SWR within 1.3:1... trying to get closer will drive you CRAZY!!!

            Try to enjoy the process and not get frustrated by it. If you "play" with it, you'll learn from it and you'll be smarter for it.

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              #7
              Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like im on the heavier end of the 11 grains per lb. Im going to start practicing/shooting more.
              As my form and shooting get better can it effect my arrow set up? Is there anything in form that could change arrow flight and call for a different spine?
              Again thanks for the help and timw

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                #8
                If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

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                  #9
                  The sage is center shot and affords alot of tuning room making it great for a wide range of spines. Hopefully you got a quality fast flite string for it and trashed the stock one. Those arrows should be fine

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Dkincaid View Post
                    The sage is center shot and affords alot of tuning room making it great for a wide range of spines. Hopefully you got a quality fast flite string for it and trashed the stock one. Those arrows should be fine
                    I actually do do.still habe the original string. Any recommendations on where to get one and what length of string am i supposed to get?
                    Wil a different string make much of a difference or.just last longer?

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by doublearrow View Post
                      Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like im on the heavier end of the 11 grains per lb. Im going to start practicing/shooting more.
                      As my form and shooting get better can it effect my arrow set up? Is there anything in form that could change arrow flight and call for a different spine?
                      Again thanks for the help and timw
                      Well, I am no expert, but two things come to mind and that is draw length (if you change your anchor) and how you release your arrow (plucking, exapansion, dead release, yada, yada) will cause your arrow to become weaker or stiffer. I don't notice these as much with a fletched arrow when it comes to flight, but where it impacts is noticeable. However, if you bareshaft, you can see the difference between proper expansion and when you creap a little and/or dead release. Not only does the arrow fly higher vs lower, but you can see the arrow kick differently because of dynamic spine, which results in left to right shifts.

                      Long story short, I wouldn't worry about it too much. The key is to have some fun during this process, and letting go is sometimes required... surprisingly enough, letting go tends to make you more accurate - something about being relaxed or something...

                      Originally posted by doublearrow View Post
                      I actually do do.still habe the original string. Any recommendations on where to get one and what length of string am i supposed to get?
                      Wil a different string make much of a difference or.just last longer?
                      A string should theoretically make a difference. How noticeable, I personally do not know because I just bought the Fast Flight string when I ordered my sage. Ideally, it should make your current arrows seem weaker, because the string results in a faster flight (better power effeciency yada yada yada.) I purchased my string at 3riversarchery.com and ordered the 58" string fast flight flemish string for the sage. Also, there are some string builders on this forum (something I still want to try some time.)

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