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    #16
    edwardv, are you also selling the palmer too or is that Rabidbowhunter?

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      #17
      I am thinking of selling my Sarrels Bobcatt II Recurve. Its 55#@ 28", it was the bow featured in the Texas Parks and Wildlife magazine article on Traditional Bows a few years back. Im looking to get $450 if anyones interested

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        #18
        Have you already tried shooting any bows? And finding out what draw weight you can comfortably draw back? Or have you already found out you can draw back heavy bows no problem? I dunno about anyone else... but I had to work up to 55#'s when I first started out... Because I couldnt control it at all from not learning form with a lighter bow..

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          #19
          I didn't seem to have a problem with my buddy's 50# so I don't think 55# would be that much more. I haven't shot much recurve though. My compound is set at 69# and I shoot it daily. I know that there is no let off and such on a recurve though.

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            #20
            from the looks of it the sarrels bows aren't take down are they?

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              #21
              Originally posted by coloradoman View Post
              from the looks of it the sarrels bows aren't take down are they?
              He makes takedown bows but this one is not

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                #22
                it is easier to make the transition from a compound to a recurve than to a longbow. then when you get your form established it is much easier to move to a longbow. I tried a longbow when I first started shooting traditional & I didn't like it nearly as much. But now years later that is all I shoot. (longbow hat is)

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                  #23
                  If you shoot 29 inches with a compound, your draw length with a string bow will be +/- 28 inches I'd guess. General rule of thumb.

                  I got serious about shooting a recurve in 2007 (3 pigs and 1 deer, but was carrying my PSE on day #1 of elk and shot the calf at 16 yards with a compound) after shooting recurves on and off for almost 40 years. My advice is to take a couple or 3 real lessons from a real archery instructor- not your buddy at the archery range- although he has good intentions. Traditional archery I found is much more influenced by your shooting form than a compound, and it's easier to learn to do the right things the 1st time, instead of unlearning the wrong things the second. It doesn't matter if the lessons are from a target archer or a bowhunter, find somebody and do 2-3. You'll be glad you did. I'm NAA Level 1, I found an NAA Level 5 instructor, who happened to own the archery shop I frequent. Paying him $15/hour for lesson completely changed how it went when I shot on his range compared to him being there and me shooting.

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                    #24
                    ok, thats what I'll do then. thanks for the advice guys

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                      #25
                      Don't forget about Sweptwing bows....Rick makes a fine shooter...

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                        #26
                        My draw length for my compound is 30.5 and draw about the same for my recurve. Its the same for most people I shoot with.

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                          #27
                          nice bow edwardv

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                            #28
                            I sent Jake some money for his palmer recurve. thanks for all the help and suggestions. I'm sure I'll be on more once I get it for tuning tips and such.

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                              #29
                              Those are great bows, Fred E. uses one and uses the same weight almost exclusively, only used #54 for his Grizz!
                              Chris Kiefner

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                                #30
                                I am using tuning help from http://www.brackenburybows.com/Tuning%20Tips.htm

                                and http://www.quinnsarchery.com/quinn's_archery_031.htm there are three pages of info.. to help tune my bows... And will actually be what I will be focusing on from now on...

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