Arrow weight/ broadhead tuning

[jdunn6092]

I’m just guessing on your draw length.


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[jdunn6092]

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[jdunn6092]

The two pictures I posted is if you ran the 75 gr hit insert instead of the stock 16 gr. Insert.


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[Etxnoodler]

The two pictures I posted is if you ran the 75 gr hit insert instead of the stock 16 gr. Insert.


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Thanks! So let’s pretend I don’t know what I’m talking about.. lol are those good numbers? I see the weight is right

[Etxnoodler]

500 is a great all around arrow weight, the key is building the arrow the right way. 500 with high FOC is a pretty attainable goal for most shooters and is more than enough arrow for ANY NA game with a good broadhead setup.




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Thanks!

[jdunn6092]

Thanks! So let’s pretend I don’t know what I’m talking about.. lol are those good numbers? I see the weight is right

What numbers do you mean? Speed, weight, etc????


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[Etxnoodler]

Foc and speed? Does that mean that arrow can handle that much weight? Is the stuff at the bottom another suggested arrow? Sorry for all of the questions.

[Briar Friar]

The two pictures I posted is if you ran the 75 gr hit insert instead of the stock 16 gr. Insert.


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And a half inch of shaft...?

Its interesting to see how little fps, foc, gpp DID NOT change between the two insert weights...and half inch of shaft. Me thinks too many variables.

Etxnoodler...what will kill the moose will kill the deer. I think you could slay a moose with your setup...surgically.

[bowhunting1]

Bare shaft tune. Your broadheads will be money with field points if you get a bare shaft flying straight and grouping with field points.

[jdunn6092]

And a half inch of shaft...?



Its interesting to see how little fps, foc, gpp DID NOT change between the two insert weights...and half inch of shaft. Me thinks too many variables.



Etxnoodler...what will kill the moose will kill the deer. I think you could slay a moose with your setup...surgically.

The only thing that changed in the two pictures is half of an inch on the shaft length. That stiffened up the shaft a little more. I didn’t run the numbers with the standard insert because he’s already shooting it and liking it. It was pointless to run something that he already knows about.


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[jdunn6092]

Foc and speed? Does that mean that arrow can handle that much weight? Is the stuff at the bottom another suggested arrow? Sorry for all of the questions.

From my experience these numbers are a guide to help you along the way. From my setup they’re about 15 FPS faster than what I really shoot.

I would say they are good number to work with. You may had to do some adjusting along the way to figure out what is best for you. You may have to play with shaft length or even buy a few 300 spine to test them out. It sucks but ever bow and person is different. Even the elevation you life or hunt at can change things. Higher the elevation-faster the arrows fps.

I hate to say it but it’s hard to tell someone exactly what weight insert, length of shaft, and FPS they need to be shooting without being there and seeing your setup with my own eyes.


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[dk_ace]

Echoing jdunn, I’ve found that program to often give speed estimates much faster than what the rig will actually shoot. I’ve seen it off by 30+ FPS. The results in the screenshots above look a lot faster than what I think you’ll actually get. I still think a 500 grain arrow is a solid choice for what you’re wanting, just don’t expect those speeds.

D

[Mudslinger]

Listen to Muddyfuzzy, Rat or Enewman as far as building a great arrow for what you want. None of those guys will steer you wrong.

I have been doing this bowhunting bit for a long time and I will tell you what I have learned in over 40 years of slinging arrows. A heavier arrow, higher FOC will do 3 things to your set up.
1. More forgiving at longer shot distances.
2. More accurate at longer distances, you may run into this elk hunting
3. A WAY QUIETER bow on the shot.

I am not talking a few grains here or there, I am talking at least 50 to 100 grains heavier. I saw my greatest improvement in the 3 things I mentioned after going from 420 grains to 595 grains. I have been there, done that with very short, very light arrows, overdraws and such to very light arrows without overdraws, I have basically done it all after 40+ years of bowhunting.

Shot placement and a sharp broadhead are keys in bowhunting and the easier you make it to put that broadhead in the place it needs to be, the easier it is to kill animals. Get your set up right, practice with that set up and get very confident with your bow and arrows and all the other accessories so when that animal steps out, you are just praying for a shot because you know you can make it! Without that right, tunes excellent equipment and the confidence to use that equipment, when that animal steps out and you think, "can I make that shot", that is not what you want.

Sorry for the long post, just giving my opinions, all coming from and old fart!

[HDWRENCH]

Two questions.
1. 28.25 inch arrow with 125 grain slick trick magnum broadhead. Total weight roughly 432 grains. I think my draw weight is 65. Arrow is a carbon axis 340 if that matters. Is this heavy enough for elk and other similar sized game or should I go heavier? I’ve never really paid attention to arrow weight before so curious what others think.

2. Field tips shoot high right from broadheads. Tried “broadhead tuning” by moving rest to the right but that made it worse. What could be the cause of this?
Thanks

I run a 351 grain at 65 with that broad head I have never paper tuned as they fly like my field points . 60 yards I can hit a 4x4 post it note .. Is the bow still in time . When mine stretched it got pretty crazy .. and it happened all at once . CCA took care of that and the bow was back spot on