I just recently gotten back into traditional archery and bought a PSE Mustang take down. Bow is 60" 45# my draw is 28". I have been shooting Carbon Express Heritage 150 with 125 gr target point off of a Bear Rug shelf three fingers under. The arrows are going into the target off to the side. I have checked my nock placement and have gotten the downward kick out of the arrow but I'm thinking my arrows are wrong for my bow. Anyone got any advice to help me out? Traditional was how I started out in the early 70's using fiberglass shafts but that was a long time ago and I know equipment has changed a lot.
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Those CE 150s are WAY too stiff with 125 out front. Assuming you pull somewhere around 28" if you want to stick with 125 heads you're best bet will be CE 90s at full length or 75s cut down a little. -
Thanks for the help.Comment
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I would try a 30" gold tip 400 spine with the 125 gr. Head. The spine chart shows to be good from 40-54 lbs. I shoot a 52 lb longbow and my arrow is the gold tip 400 29" and 125 gr head. I add 5 gr. Per inch weight tubes to mine to get my arrow heavier though. This setup will shoot perfect paper test holes for me with points from 125 to 175 gr. Heads.Last edited by muddydog; 07-04-2017, 02:28 PM.Comment
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Good stuff here. Takin notes over here Boss.
Good luck Skinner.Comment
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That gold tip 400 is stiffer than the CE150 he's currently using. A GT 400 at 30" with 125 out front spines out at #75.
The CE 75 at 30" with 125 out front comes in at #46 spine. If it's a hair weak you can cut it down 1/4" at a time but I bet it's right on the money.Comment
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Add another 100gr to front of ur 150's n see howbthey do.Comment
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I would definitely try the Heritage 90 full length with the original insert and 125 grain tip. I shoot these out of my 1970 ish bear Grizzly 45 lb recurve. The 400 will be absolutely too stiff. I have shot them full length with 100 great insert and a 125 grain head and they still come off slightly stiff. But a full length 500 spine set up the same way Shoots GreatComment
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Guys I really appreciate all the input.Comment
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My 400 gold fly perfect for me. A gold tip and the 3 rivers arrow charts also recommend a 400....so I guess it will either work for you or not.Comment
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As others have said, you are too stiff.Originally posted by Skinner View Post
What length are your arrows cut to currently?
You could go down in spine on the shafts, but honestly, I had issues with the heritage 90s (600 spine) because they take a different insert, cant use standard insert weights, etc.
I would consider using a combination of a longer shaft and more weight up front. As a reference, I shoot 48#@27"with 150s cut to 29" with 225 total up front. You could probably go with 30-31" shafts using the same weight as I do... I am away from my desk, so can't crunch the numbers.
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My Arrows are cut to 29" and I draw probably 27-27 1/2"Comment
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So here is the skinny from my point of view. You are very likely overspined. I say very likely because honestly, I looked up the specs for your bow, and couldn't find information on how far from center the shelf is cut nor the performance of the string you are using(this has a big impact on your required dynamic spine.) If I just assume it is just past center like most of the recurves in this class and an "average" string, then I think you have a decent chance of just modifying the arrows you already have and get them to fly straight. To do so, you need to get some heavier field points. Like I said, I run 175gr heads with 50gr insert weights to add up to 225 up front. Get yourself a field point test kit (basically a couple tips of every weight) and add some weight to see if you can get your arrows flying straight. Everybody should have a set of field points in every weight for tuning. I bet if you put a 250gr field point on the end of it, you would see it flying better. You can then decide if you want to buy 100 gr inserts and use a 150gr head for practice/hunting. The downside of course with all of this is that you will have a pretty heavy arrow, so your trajectory won't be so flat... but some guys like heavy... some guys like fast.Originally posted by Skinner View Post
If you have to go down in spine, just remember that heritage 90s have a different shaft diameter and I personally find that to be annoying... so consider looking at other shafts other than CX. It is nice that the CX are heavy... but that whole special nock/insert thing is irritating.
Another thing to keep in mind, that makes this harder for us to judge over the internet is that 1) Your bow may be +/- 2# from what it is marked since it is a production bow... 2) You say your draw *might* be closer to 27 than your original post of 28... so knock off 2# there... and 3) we have no idea what your form/release is like, so these are all variables to play with.
I can't say it enough though... you should buy a field point tuning kit. 2-4 screw in points in every weight is a good thing for situations like this. You can order such a thing from 3rivers...Comment
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Use 100 grain inserts and your 125 points with your current arrows and you'll be spot on.
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When y'all are saying too "stiff" does that mean the arrow shaft does not leave the rest properly? Could someone explain a little more.
Why do some use an extremely heavy broadhead and others are using a light one? I will assume your trying to get more penetration with a heavier broadhead.
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I lurk on the traditional threads a lot. Sometimes I get confused with the lingo and sometimes I over analyze things.Comment
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