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    #76
    The size of the card board only has to be 3' x 3' if you are shooting 3 under but needs to be taller if you shoot one over as your gaps would be more. When you try this, remember to keep your eye on the target. Don't let your eye wander to looking at the arrow point. You put the point where it needs to be using your secondary vision. This is the way Howard Hill shot and he called it some thing fancy like secondary line of sight or some thing like that. Bob Wesley shot this way as well and won the first world long bow tournament. Bob said he could actually put an orange dot on the back stop where he needed to put the arrow point, in his mind. I can't do that and actually don't think about a measurement from center to put my arrow point. I just draw and the point goes to where it needs to be for the correct distance, during the draw. The shot is away almost the instance I slide into my anchor.

    TWP, closing the eye works just great with this method but when I try it I tend to hold at draw longer to line up the shot. I think I try to be more precise with one eye closed. I always do it one eye closed if I'm shooting some one elses bow that I've never shot before. My friend Gary Turner, has to shoot one eye closed as he is left dominant. He draws both eyes open. Just before he hits his anchor, the left eye closes, he hits anchor and the shot is away. This is some thing he had to work out to make this method work for him and believe me, you do not want him shooting at you, at any range.

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      #77
      Originally posted by Draco View Post
      It doesn't change between points because with a high anchor you don't see the point but the end of the round part of the arrow. Hold an arrow up to your cheek bone and look at the end. You'll see what I mean.
      Good explanation of gap shooting. I shoot like this, only canted. This is a bit more difficult because you have to figure out a method for achieving the same cant and draw length each time.

      As you pointed out, the gaps may not change much with different points, but they will change with different arrows - for example going from carbons to woods, and they will change with different bows, more so if they are not the same draw weight. It's all about consistency in practice in order to imprint the pattern in your subconscious...just like swinging a golf club or tennis racket.

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        #78
        To the top for a great read... Thanks Draco!

        I started out gap shooting, I guess it came from many years of using sights. The card board is a great idea for beginners, like mentioned once point on is figured out there is very little thinking going on. There's only four choices; real close, kinda close, just right, then aim a little high.

        For the real new folks, nothing works well until your bow is tuned to your arrows! Thanks again.

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          #79
          this was good reading, bump to the top for us "newbies"

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            #80
            Great ancor photo Bob

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              #81
              Draco, I shoot 3 under and use the gap method. I draw around 27"s and 49-50#s with 500-515grain arrows. My point on is 20yds. Obviously a longer draw length and heavier poundage bow will give you a further point on, however I really thought having the heavier arrow also might wash this theory out. Am I really just a little dense on my thinking?

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                #82
                Originally posted by trad"Doc"53 View Post
                Draco, I shoot 3 under and use the gap method. I draw around 27"s and 49-50#s with 500-515grain arrows. My point on is 20yds. Obviously a longer draw length and heavier poundage bow will give you a further point on, however I really thought having the heavier arrow also might wash this theory out. Am I really just a little dense on my thinking?
                No your not trad doc. there are alot of things that go into gap. thats why each archer has to do what draco did and learn their gaps. a buddy of mine shoots 50# @ 29" uses a full length arrow 510gr and is point on at 26 yards. he has to hold 36" above the target at 40 yards. everyone will have to find out their own gaps.

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                  #83
                  This is exactly how I shoot! Great Explanation

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                    #84
                    Just so every one knows, Rotag was the brave soul that took the picture of me at anchor. He trusts my shooting even more than I do.

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                      #85
                      If you are going to shoot gap . you can shoot and find your POINT ON distance and use this to get you real close on your gaps. Just fill in the blanks. I checked this for accuracy by shooting my gaps and it was within an inch for me at all distances out to my Point On . Cant shoot the longer shots at home but I will check the farther shots this weekend.
                      It does also give to a few handy pieces of info like KE and KE/DW . which will let you know if there is an issue with your setup.

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                        #86
                        This method of shooting has cost me several nocks... I took out all of my bows and found spot on, and it did cost me a trip to Academy to get some more nocks.

                        I took each bow and put a spot on below (some right and some to the left) the target between 6" to 10" below the point of aim and I am more deadly than ever I am ready for 3D!!!!

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                          #87
                          I shot about 50 arrows this afternoon using the draco method of gap. Point on at 30 yds. I shot three under and could not hit a barn. Went to split and did much better. I had 3 arrows 29 to back of point and 2 at 30 to back of point. every thing makes a differance best I can tell. I could figure this out easy enough if only I could see. Its like wearing bifocals but with some practice I might be able to do it.
                          Last edited by Selfbowman; 01-18-2012, 10:37 PM.

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                            #88
                            Thanks Gene!

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                              #89
                              this will make you have to be good at judging yardages in all terrains in all situations.... too complicated.

                              haha trust me when I say there are systems just as accurate out there with very little need to "judge" the yardages.

                              but i'm keeping my mouth shut lol

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                                #90
                                Trad Doc, it doesn't make any difference what poundage you shoot if the arrows weigh the same per pound of bow weight. Your shooting about 10 grains per pound and so am I. Even though my bow pulls more, it should shoot about the same trajectory as yours, mine will just have more punch to it down range.

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