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    Food plot soil ph question

    We had soil test done on 4 spots. Need little help with direction of what to do with results. We planted oats last year but just a last minute idea.

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    #2
    Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Darton View Post
      Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.
      Not to sound ignorant but what fertilizer combo --/--/-- to try to get that number? Also I'm going down to ranch this weekend. Add it then? We dont plan on planting oats till a little latter.

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        #4
        Originally posted by txhunter1 View Post
        Not to sound ignorant but what fertilizer combo --/--/-- to try to get that number? Also I'm going down to ranch this weekend. Add it then? We dont plan on planting oats till a little latter.

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        No worries, we all have been there! N/P/K is the combo formula, so if N is what you need something like 48/0/0 should do the trick for everything but the last plot. For that one I would go with 48/20/0.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Darton View Post
          No worries, we all have been there! N/P/K is the combo formula, so if N is what you need something like 48/0/0 should do the trick!
          Ok thank you very much. Do I add it before or just at same time with oats?

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            #6
            Urea is nitrogen and nothing else, but when you put it out you need to disc it in the soil. Otherwise it will "evaporate". I can't remember what you add to soil with a high ph, mainly because soils where I plot all have low ph and I've never had that problem. A search on the QDMA website might turn that info up or just google it. Your soil is not extremely alkaline, and may be ok with just the N recommended per acre. Soil tests are a guideline, and not necesarily written in stone. Most all crops like ph between 6 and 7 but I've grown some pretty good plots at less than perfect.

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              #7
              It really needs six months or so to get in the ground well, but the sooner the better. You will see a big difference regardless. I would put it in ASAP or when you plant and then do a huge dose in Feb or Mar in preparation for the upcoming fall!

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                #8
                Originally posted by txhunter1 View Post
                Not to sound ignorant but what fertilizer combo --/--/-- to try to get that number? Also I'm going down to ranch this weekend. Add it then? We dont plan on planting oats till a little latter.

                Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                First research the particular plant your growing and see what N-P-K works best for it. That N-P-K number isn't a direct relation to your PH number you asked about. Totally different things.
                Secondly it will take and ammonium product to drop your ph. A nitrate product can actually cause you to be more alkaline sometimes. Nitrogen fertilizer come both ways. You are wanting a more acidic soil.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Drycreek3189 View Post
                  Urea is nitrogen and nothing else, but when you put it out you need to disc it in the soil. Otherwise it will "evaporate". I can't remember what you add to soil with a high ph, mainly because soils where I plot all have low ph and I've never had that problem. A search on the QDMA website might turn that info up or just google it. Your soil is not extremely alkaline, and may be ok with just the N recommended per acre. Soil tests are a guideline, and not necesarily written in stone. Most all crops like ph between 6 and 7 but I've grown some pretty good plots at less than perfect.
                  Another valid solution that works well

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Darton View Post
                    It really needs six months or so to get in the ground well, but the sooner the better. You will see a big difference regardless. I would put it in ASAP or when you plant and then do a huge dose in Feb or Mar in preparation for the upcoming fall!


                    What needs 6 months?


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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Dushon View Post
                      What needs 6 months?


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                      Depending on what you are adding in terms of its composition, IE liquid/granular/pelletized, could take up to six months, depending on rainfall, to actually begin to change composition of your soil.
                      Last edited by Darton; 08-13-2018, 08:39 PM.

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                        #12
                        If you are planting clover you should be good. When in doubt, spread some chicken manure...cant go wrong with that

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Darton View Post
                          Depending on what you are adding in terms of its composition, IE liquid/granular/pelletized, could take up to six months, depending on rainfall, to actually begin the change the composition of your soil.
                          You look dumb but just might be smart!????😂

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Darton View Post
                            Need to get it down to 6.5. As you can tell N is the ticket to balance.


                            Do you prefer “Dr. Deer” or “Dr. Dirt”?

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                              #15
                              Oats and clover should grow in that PH no problem. I would add the nitrogen and the phosphorus on the last plot when you plant per the recommendation of the test. Your biggest problem will be rain/water when you need it!

                              Madhatter explained the different types of nitrogen fertilizer to use to lower your PH to get it closer to 7.0, like ammonium sulfate. Your PH is ok for these crops I would not worry about it.

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