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Elk Arrow Setup: How Slow is TOO Slow?

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    #31
    LOL! So if I called you and said "Hey Rock, I'd like to test a heavier arrow and foc setup with my HTR. I'd like the arrows to be 29" and be around 500-550 grains, and would like to see how they fly with a 4 fletch setup. Here are the specs on my setup...." you wouldn't offer some recommendations until you can look at my bow even though I'm 300+ miles away?

    Nevermind, I'll call CCR.
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      #32
      Originally posted by Michael View Post
      Point is, even YOU can't do that if the customer never brings the bow in the shop or doesn't let you look at it. Responsibility is solely mine here.
      I know just enough to not want to be a guy that just takes my bow to the shop to let somebody else do it for me, and yet lack the right tools to do it efficiently.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      I find this post silly and hypocritical for a person that owns a “bowhunting” website, and promotes and takes money from archery shops to maintain this website.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Michael View Post
        LOL! So if I called you and said "Hey Rock, I'd like to test a heavier arrow and foc setup with my HTR. I'd like the arrows to be 29" and be around 500-550 grains, and would like to see how they fly with a 4 fletch setup. Here are the specs on my setup...." you wouldn't offer some recommendations until you can look at my bow even though I'm 300+ miles away?

        Nevermind, I'll call CCR.
        I would ask if you for a fact knew that your bow was to spec.����
        Last edited by rocky; 07-24-2018, 09:31 PM.

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          #34
          It's hypocritical to want to work on my own bow instead of dropping it off to let somebody else set it up and returning a few days later to retrieve it, with no clue how to make a field repair if something goes wrong while I'm hunting?

          Do you ever go back and read stuff you wrote the following morning and cringe at what you typed?
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            #35
            This thread was doomed 2 hours and 45 minutes ago.

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              #36
              Originally posted by Michael View Post
              It's hypocritical to want to work on my own bow instead of dropping it off to let somebody else set it up and returning a few days later to retrieve it, with no clue how to make a field repair if something goes wrong while I'm hunting?

              Do you ever go back and read stuff you wrote the following morning and cringe at what you typed?
              No, I don’t. Do you? Arrow choice is not a field repair.

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                #37
                I am curious about the quad fletch. I shot them many years ago with an 84 lb Proline with a serious overdraw, but I haven't seen those for a while.
                What was your logic with those Michael?

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by rocky View Post
                  I would ask if you for a fact knew that your bow was to spec.����
                  …and I would have replied "yeah, send 'em!"

                  Look, I want the arrows built for a bow when it's IN spec. I took my bow to B2B today, didn't see the results I was expecting, used Tim's tools to check and troubleshoot and identified a few potential issues that are all correctible in multiple ways. I could add a few twists to the string, or because I want a backup for my hunt I will likely purchase a new one and keep the current one for an emergency field repair (which I know how to do because I didn't just drop it off at the shop...oh and because I own a "bowhunting" website and have learned some basic setup and tuning techniques from our members.) I offered to pay Tim for use of his facility, but of course he declined.


                  If buying gear from CCR or B2B was a hassle, I'd find another source. Fortunately both of those shops allow me some leeway to test a few things the way I want to (maybe nudging me a different direction along the way) without insisting I do it their way.
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                    #39
                    Originally posted by Michael View Post
                    …and I would have replied "yeah, send 'em!"

                    Look, I want the arrows built for a bow when it's IN spec. I took my bow to B2B today, didn't see the results I was expecting, used Tim's tools to check and troubleshoot and identified a few potential issues that are all correctible in multiple ways. I could add a few twists to the string, or because I want a backup for my hunt I will likely purchase a new one and keep the current one for an emergency field repair (which I know how to do because I didn't just drop it off at the shop...oh and because I own a "bowhunting" website and have learned some basic setup and tuning techniques from our members.) I offered to pay Tim for use of his facility, but of course he declined.


                    If buying gear from CCR or B2B was a hassle, I'd find another source. Fortunately both of those shops allow me some leeway to test a few things the way I want to (maybe nudging me a different direction along the way) without insisting I do it their way.
                    Glad to see you use and give kudos to shops that sponsor your site.

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                      #40
                      We all want to talk about mass and velocity, but I feel like we are missing part of the equation if we aren't talking about distance.

                      A 700grn arrow at 200fps is great at 15yds, but what if you want to be able to shoot out to 50 yards?

                      You'll need a much lighter arrow and a faster velocity.

                      Personally I'd go back to the 436gr x 266fps, and go up and down from there slightly. FLbs in the 50's is more than enough to take down an elk, 60's would be nicer.

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                        #41
                        Yall do you.

                        Anyone know of a study with the crono done at the target?

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by TX_Kevin View Post
                          I am curious about the quad fletch. I shot them many years ago with an 84 lb Proline with a serious overdraw, but I haven't seen those for a while.
                          What was your logic with those Michael?

                          Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
                          I've listened to a few podcasts recommending them with heavier foc setups with fixed coc heads, I suppose to combat potential steering issues with the broadhead. I feel like I'm almost between spines, with 300 being borderline weak with the 125+insert+weight, so I figured a few extra gr. at the back couldn't hurt (although probably won't make an appreciable difference.)
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                            #43
                            Originally posted by cfortner View Post
                            We all want to talk about mass and velocity, but I feel like we are missing part of the equation if we aren't talking about distance.

                            A 700grn arrow at 200fps is great at 15yds, but what if you want to be able to shoot out to 50 yards?

                            You'll need a much lighter arrow and a faster velocity.

                            Personally I'd go back to the 436gr x 266fps, and go up and down from there slightly. FLbs in the 50's is more than enough to take down an elk, 60's would be nicer.
                            If you can get through the other minutia above, that's petty much the jist of my original post. I think the 436gr@266 will be sufficient, but I want to explore other options that may optimize all the factors that result in the most accuracy within my comfortable range (or maybe even extend that range).
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                              #44
                              Elk Arrow Setup: How Slow is TOO Slow?

                              Originally posted by Michael View Post
                              If you can get through the other minutia above, that's petty much the jist of my original post. I think the 436gr@266 will be sufficient, but I want to explore other options that may optimize all the factors that result in the most accuracy within my comfortable range (or maybe even extend that range).


                              It’s simply 2 cents that don’t matter much. But, I’d do this and feel comfortable knowing what I had and how I shoot it.

                              Good luck in them hills young man!


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                                #45
                                I only took a 500 grain arrow on my moose hunt.. I truly feel that from 430-500 grains is the sweet spot for any North American animal... In my opinion if you hit a bone that a 430 grain arrow wont go through then a 500 grain arrow wont go through it either. I think the broadhead choice, spine and tune is way more important. If your shooting a big mechanical with a flat blade angle that is going to penetrate less than a coc iron will.. If your arrow isnt flying true and is hitting the target at an angle that is going to affect penetration. Having a arrow with a spine that is too weak will allow more energy to be sucked up when it hits something hard..


                                Everyone wants a HEAVY arrow and then they quote the Ashby stuff.. What they fail to also put in there is the ashby stuff is truly heavy.. Like 650 grains.. And also must be accompanied by a single bevel broadhead.

                                Other than my moose hunt when I was shooting like 260 fps i set every bow up the same.. I set it up with an arrow that shoots 275-290 fps.. The arrow changes with each bow but I shoot for that number. Last year for elk,deer and antelope that arrow was a 300 spine pierce with a 100 grain head that ended up at 435 grains.. It blew through everything..

                                STOP OVERTHINGKING IT..

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