Elk Arrow Setup: How Slow is TOO Slow?

[SaltwaterSlick]

I’m not being a smartass, just telling him what I would do if he came in my shop.

That may be what you meant, but that is NOT what you SAID... What you said is typical of so many of your posts over the years... You indeed are a genuine smart ***. And no one knows more about archery equipment and technology than you. all anyone has to do is just ask, you'll tell 'em...

[rocky]

Hey, i figured you weren’t being a smart ***.

I had him at 254 @ 70 lbs

You called me a “smartass” before you edited your post.

[rocky]

That may be what you meant, but that is NOT what you SAID... What you said is typical of so many of your posts over the years... You indeed are a genuine smart ***. And no one knows more about archery equipment and technology than you. all anyone has to do is just ask, you'll tell 'em...

Would you check specs on bow to determine the best arrow for his setup? This is all I said.

[Fishndude]

You called me a “smartass” before you edited your post.

Yes I know I did. I’m the one who edited it. Based on most recent posts, I decided maybe you weren’t being A smartass.

Also in my defense(not that I need defending), I wasn’t told a React H5 would be his sight of choice or I’d have been more precise.

[rocky]

Yes I know I did. I’m the one who edited it. Based on most recent posts, I decided maybe you weren’t being A smartass.

Also in my defense(not that I need defending), I wasn’t told a React H5 would be his sight of choice or I’d have been more precise.

The sight has nothing to do with this. The bow is out of spec, and arrow choice can’t be determined until bow is in spec.

[Fishndude]

Michael, enjoy your thread. I’m out!

[Chad C]

Elk Arrow Setup: How Slow is TOO Slow?

Dude, that’s plenty! I killed my first elk slinging barely over 265 and it wasn’t a close shot...

100 grain thunderhead. I don’t remember overall weight. I have a 28” draw.

I like option 3.

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[Mudslinger]

I have killed elk over 50 yards using an overdraw and very light arrows and I have also killed an elk at 4 yards with a medium weight set up and one using a 565 grain arrow that was not fast. Just get an arrow you are comfortable with, get comfortable and confident with your bow and set up and make sure your BH's are hitting the same as your FP's. Elk have a basic 16'x16' kill zone. Just put it in the right spot and they are down, no matter the speed, fast, medium or slow!

[Michael]

This post informs me that your shop of choice is not checking things as you Persue your goal to a good elk setup. Your bow should be checked for spec every time you go in there. 3/8 of an inch long is not acceptable when you are choosing arrows for correct spine and hunting performance. You are the only one that can decide what is correct for speed, but your shop is responsible for keeping your bow in spec so that you can

Make that decision.

For most of my bowhunting life, I haven't lived near a good shop. I moved away from Huffman about the time Sam opened Triple Edge in Dayton, I was fortunate for a couple year period to live in FW near CCR and for the last couple in Hallettsville near B2B.

That said, I've never purchased a bow from a "local" shop. I've been given a bow or two from friends, purchased used from TBH classifieds, or more recently have received them direct from the manufacturer.

With that in mind, I've never been a guy to spend much time hanging out in a local archery shop and never felt comfortable asking a shop to tune or maintain a bow that I didn't purchase from them.

I'm no expert, but I have enough general knowledge to setup a bow and tune the arrows to get it dialed in for whitetail. Honestly, I don't typically tinker with my bow, rest, sight, arrows, release, etc. to require a whole lot of tweaking from year to year. If my arrows fly well, broadheads group well and I consistently kill ****, then other than a visual inspection and string wax, I don't make many changes.

Of course this year things have changed. First, I changed to a thumb release. Then I got invited on an elk hunt. After some research, I decided I wanted to test some heavier arrows with heavier foc. Casey let me borrow and test a different sight. Because of so many changes as I prepare for a completely different type of hunt, I decided a more thorough check of my bow was in order.

Jeff (or anybody else at CCR) has never seen my current bow. Today was the first time I've ever walked into B2B with bow in hand. Neither are anymore responsible for keeping my bow tuned than you are, but both are giving me as much advice as I request to help get me dialed in by September.


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[AlaskaFlyerFan]

Casey had an extra Trophy Ridge React Pro sight (long story) that he gave me over the weekend to test. I knew the setup was slow, but I realized it might be TOO slow when I was unable to set the React sight beyond 20 yards because the pin gap is too wide to accommodate the longest pin (60) without bottoming out on the housing!

I had a similar situation with an older Trophy Ridge sight. The simple fix for me was to raise my peep. Obviously, this changed my anchor slightly but it didn't take long to get used to. I don't know if this is something that you would be willing to do, but it might fix the issue with the sight. Good luck.

[rocky]

For most of my bowhunting life, I haven't lived near a good shop. I moved away from Huffman about the time Sam opened Triple Edge in Dayton, I was fortunate for a couple year period to live in FW near CCR and for the last couple in Hallettsville near B2B.

That said, I've never purchased a bow from a "local" shop. I've been given a bow or two from friends, purchased used from TBH classifieds, or more recently have received them direct from the manufacturer.

With that in mind, I've never been a guy to spend much time hanging out in a local archery shop and never felt comfortable asking a shop to tune or maintain a bow that I didn't purchase from them.

I'm no expert, but I have enough general knowledge to setup a bow and tune the arrows to get it dialed in for whitetail. Honestly, I don't typically tinker with my bow, rest, sight, arrows, release, etc. to require a whole lot of tweaking from year to year. If my arrows fly well, broadheads group well and I consistently kill ****, then other than a visual inspection and string wax, I don't make many changes.

Of course this year things have changed. First, I changed to a thumb release. Then I got invited on an elk hunt. After some research, I decided I wanted to test some heavier arrows with heavier foc. Casey let me borrow and test a different sight. Because of so many changes as I prepare for a completely different type of hunt, I decided a more thorough check of my bow was in order.

Jeff (or anybody else at CCR) has never seen my current bow. Today was the first time I've ever walked into B2B with bow in hand. Neither are anymore responsible for keeping my bow tuned than you are, but both are giving me as much advice as I request to help get me dialed in by September.


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Bows are designed to perform best at spec. Bow hunters are responsible to maintain equipment for max performance. Bowshops are the guys that keep bows at spec to maintain max performance. Doesn’t matter if bow is purchased there, or elsewhere when determining best arrow for game choice.

[Michael]

Just to clarify, I asked Jeff (via text) about building heavier arrows with higher foc "to test". I don't ha r a bow scale so I made an assumption of approx draw weight based on my bow having 70# limbs. Jeff built exactly based on the specs I sent him from 300 miles away. I asked him to build only 6 with the idea that it was a fairly drastic change and figuring the result would be a significant decrease in speed.

I'm pretty comfortable with my previous setup, and it's easy enough to go back that route if I think it will work better.

There are also several other intermediary changes to the bow or arrows that I can make that may (or may not) result in better overall performance.

I have a pretty good idea of the process I'll go through to get the best final result, but I figured it might be interesting to get some insight from some of the tuning geeks here along the way.


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[Smart]

I figure my options are as follows:

1. Put my Spott Hogg back on, change to 100 grain heads to drop arrow weight to 503 gr and live with the wide pin gap at 243ish fps.

2. Add twist to string to increase draw weight, hopefully to 70# and retest each setup.

3. Purchase a new string and replace factory string (which could be used as an emergency backup) and retest.

3. Go back to original setup (436 gr ICS Hunter 340 at 266 fps). I thought about adding weighted insert or heavier head to that setup, but fear a fresh or twisted string that brings me >70# might result in weak spine from 340s.

4. or maybe 5. ...


Ask the boss, JNet, to get you a new bow for pre- Christmas..

[Michael]

Bows are designed to perform best at spec. Bow hunters are responsible to maintain equipment for max performance. Bowshops are the guys that keep bows at spec to maintain max performance. Doesn’t matter if bow is purchased there, or elsewhere when determining best arrow for game choice.

Point is, even YOU can't do that if the customer never brings the bow in the shop or doesn't let you look at it. Responsibility is solely mine here.
I know just enough to not want to be a guy that just takes my bow to the shop to let somebody else do it for me, and yet lack the right tools to do it efficiently.


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[rocky]

Point is, even YOU can't do that if the customer never brings the bow in the shop or doesn't let you look at it. Responsibility is solely mine here.
I know just enough to not want to be a guy that just takes my bow to the shop to let somebody else do it for me, and yet lack the right tools to do it efficiently.


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You are right. I’m not gonna recommend arrows for your set-up until I check it. Your hunting set-up is yours, and your responsibility.