Originally posted by Maxlab
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What Happened To My Scope?
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Originally posted by dustoffer View PostWhen I was shooting rimfire benchrest a bunch, I was told to never use the Wheeler FAT as it was not reliable---
I put the gun in the safe after the range. When I put it in the safe, the scope was tight (shooting sub MOA @ 200yds) & 2 months later I pull it out and the rings are so loose that the scope slipped all the way down, by the force of it's weight alone, & will slide all the way forward/backwards just by tilting the gun.
Nobody has the combo to my safe & I KNOW nobody has touched the gun.
How would the screws loosen up THIS much while sitting still in the safe?Last edited by LFD2037; 11-27-2017, 08:28 PM.
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Originally posted by meltingfeather View PostThat's actually not legal but plenty of people get away with it.
Also, the Talley rings I've lapped have needed it. It's not just about the rings themselves but also the mounting on the actual gun that affects the need for lapping. You'd think a company like Talley would have that knowledge.
Odd problem... my guess is an out-of-spec tube from Burris. You have a caliper you can put to it?
I was mounting a scope in Talley rings this evening and thought of this thread. These pic were taken after the bases were torqued down and a light lapping, the small shiny areas would have been my only contact area had I not finished lapping to 80-90% clean up.
They absolutely need to be lapped after install.
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Originally posted by bboswell View PostI was mounting a scope in Talley rings this evening and thought of this thread. These pic were taken after the bases were torqued down and a light lapping, the small shiny areas would have been my only contact area had I not finished lapping to 80-90% clean up.
They absolutely need to be lapped after install.
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Originally posted by bboswell View PostTally light weight alloy 20 MOA mounts
"Heavy-duty scope rings are precision-machined from solid billet aluminum with dual recoil lugs to ensure your tactical scope won’t budge under the heaviest recoil. Full-width ring caps are cut from the same billet as the bottom half of the ring for precise fit and held in place with four stainless steel Allen head screws that won’t work loose when properly tightened. Matching serial numbers ensure you always mate the cap with the bottom it came with. Locking bar, heavy-duty crossbolt and oversized, ½" hex nut locks the ring to any MIL-STD 1913 Picatinny rail."
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Originally posted by LFD2037 View PostThe ones I have are cut from a solid piece of aluminum. Still think lapping is required? These rings are almost $200 so I'd like to think they wouldn't need lapping.
You can spend $3k on a scope and it still needs to be sighted in.
Lapping adjusts the as installed rings for perfect contact and tension. Your $200 rings cannot account for a slight (few thou) misalignment of the mounting, even if due to nothing more than manufacturing tolerance.
Single piece rings also need to be lapped, since the rings are not going to pull the tapped holes in the receiver into perfect alignment.
In the rare case that everything as installed aligns perfectly and lapping actually is not needed, you can’t make this determination ahead of time— lapping is the only thing that will show you it’s not needed and it can’t hurt anything. The way you would know this is that the finish on the rings as they are lapped would wear away perfectly evenly across the entire inner face of the rings... something I’ve never seen happen.
Lapping is appropriate for any ring-mounted scope on any rifle installation without exception.
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What Happened To My Scope?
Originally posted by LFD2037 View PostThe ones I have are cut from a solid piece of aluminum. Still think lapping is required? These rings are almost $200 so I'd like to think they wouldn't need lapping. From Talley:
"Heavy-duty scope rings are precision-machined from solid billet aluminum with dual recoil lugs to ensure your tactical scope won’t budge under the heaviest recoil. Full-width ring caps are cut from the same billet as the bottom half of the ring for precise fit and held in place with four stainless steel Allen head screws that won’t work loose when properly tightened. Matching serial numbers ensure you always mate the cap with the bottom it came with. Locking bar, heavy-duty crossbolt and oversized, ½" hex nut locks the ring to any MIL-STD 1913 Picatinny rail."
That is a marketing statement not actual fact. Just like rifle barrels, the first one cut is usually much tighter to spec than the last before changing tooling. Maybe yours was at the end of a tooling set. EVERY set of Talleys I have done looks like the one in the picture the other fellow posted, at best 20% contact. Clearly any explanation, other than a haunted safe, you disagree with so most of us that are trying to help are at a loss.
Good luck with your issue. I hope you get it worked out and back to shooting soon.
Sierracharlie out…
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Originally posted by Gunnyart View PostY’all that think it’s coating, how could it happen “all of the sudden” and to the extent described?
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