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    Single Bevel Sharpening

    Hey guys, I am finishing up my elk hunt prep, and working on my broadheads and I can’t seem to get them as sharp as everyone else. I am shooting 200 grain RMSGEAR cutthroats and I have the the KME Broadhead sharpening jig. But I can’t seem to get them where I want them. I have tried course stone, fine stone and strop. Tried course and fine diamond stone and even bought about 5 different grits of sand paper to try that method as well. It sure makes them pretty and can see your reflection in them, but still aren’t nearly sharp enough. Not sure if I’m just pushing too hard, not hard enough, not doing enough strokes, etc. I’ve watched every **** YouTube video I can, and everyone else can shave with them. Me...not at all. Any suggestions? I leave Thursday and don’t want to have to find the **** grinder wheels since I already have the kme guide. Thanks


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    #2
    I finish mine on a Rada it gives a micro bevel on the off side and gets them super sharp very quickly. Your mileage may vary but for me it’s easy and works well


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      #3
      I’ve only been using single bevel heads for two seasons now, and I too have watched every video I could find. I bought a KME sharpener this year thinking it would be easier but honestly was disappointed so I went back to the sand paper.
      As mentioned in post above, the “micro” bevel on the opposite side is what really seems to make the difference in slightly sharp and RAZOR SHARP. Once I started paying more attention to the offside Bevel, my heads became much much sharper


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        #4
        Originally posted by MedicineMan7 View Post
        As mentioned in post above, the “micro” bevel on the opposite side is what really seems to make the difference in slightly sharp and RAZOR SHARP. Once I started paying more attention to the offside Bevel, my heads became much much sharper


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        This is correct.



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          #5
          This is what has worked best for me. I mark the edge with a sharpie and use a file to make sure I’m making even passes. Use the rough side for the first several passes until you start getting a bur and then lightly take the bur off then do the same with the fine side. Like was said above your mileage may vary

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            #6
            Raising and removing the burr is the key. You can apply a tiny bevel on the flat side and that will help but you must raise a burr. The burr gets smaller with every finer grit of stone.

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              #7
              What time do you leave on Thursday?
              I can mail you my RADA if you think it will get there in time.
              You can send it back whenever you get back from your hunt.

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                #8
                Takin notes over here Boss.

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                  #9
                  That's what the strokes from the back side do. Work down and remove the burr just like with a double bevel. I don't take the approach of a 'micro bevel' but just run it flat to get the same results. The burr will cut but if approached from only one side it gets rolled and that is the worst scenario.

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                    #10
                    Hmmm - y'all have got me thinking. I switched last year to Grizzly Samurai single bevels. I am careful to remove the burr but I have thought it was important to keep the flat side flat - otherwise it is not really a single bevel. (?) I get them sharp enough to easily catch on my fingernail and they will cut hair but not cleanly shave it. How do you put a "micro-bevel" on the flat side? It seems a Rada or similar sharpener would remove steel on both sides equally.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by jerp View Post
                      Hmmm - y'all have got me thinking. I switched last year to Grizzly Samurai single bevels. I am careful to remove the burr but I have thought it was important to keep the flat side flat - otherwise it is not really a single bevel. (?) I get them sharp enough to easily catch on my fingernail and they will cut hair but not cleanly shave it. How do you put a "micro-bevel" on the flat side? It seems a Rada or similar sharpener would remove steel on both sides equally.
                      What I was thinking too...but it seemed from the responses the Rada was very last step. 1,2, light strokes and done...?

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                        #12
                        The Rada removes very little material the true bevel is huge on one side and tiny on the other. The big bevel is what causes the s cut the tiny bevel just makes it sharp. For me I’d rather have ultra sharp and a tiny bevel on one side than kinda sharp and a flat side. Basically the tiny bevel is just cleaning the burr off to the eye you can barley see the bevel.


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                          #13
                          All you need is a file and your truck windshield! Good luck. I can only get mine butter knife sharp. Wish I had this guy's skills.




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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Dkincaid View Post
                            The Rada removes very little material the true bevel is huge on one side and tiny on the other. The big bevel is what causes the s cut the tiny bevel just makes it sharp. For me I’d rather have ultra sharp and a tiny bevel on one side than kinda sharp and a flat side. Basically the tiny bevel is just cleaning the burr off to the eye you can barley see the bevel.


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                            You reckon I could do the same thing with one of these? May have to experiment a bit

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                              #15
                              I think so very light strokes after you have it already sharp then light strop on leather


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