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    #61
    Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
    Thanks Todd.

    I haven't shot it yet. I don't have the shelf finished out enough to shoot off it yet, but tomorrow I am going to put an elevated rest on it just to see how she behaves.

    I've got high expectations.

    Rick

    EDIT:
    P.S.

    Todd, what tiller did you shoot with these?
    I did not change anything on the limb hardware, and as she sets in those pictures the tiller is 0 (zero).

    I'm leaning real hard toward a set of Border HEX6S's in the 60 to 65 lb draw range. Anyone want to loan me $519.00 ?
    Rick, I shoot even tiller on all my bows. I have shot them 1/8-1/4" less on bottom in the past. I shoot 3 under with even tiller now though.
    I want some of those hex6 myself. They have great. Reviews and really good performance.

    Comment


      #62
      Todd, I shot the bow for a while this morning (around 50 shots).

      I didn't really have any arrows spined right for it. All were either over, or under, so I opted to do my testing with the overs.

      These arrows are what I shoot from my 68# BW PMA off the shelf, but using the elevated rest I was able to get them to shoot with fairly acceptable flight, even bare shaft.
      This bow is 50# at my draw.

      Very quiet. The only noise I noticed out of the ordinary was the sound that the NAP Center Flipper makes while springing. Other than that VERY Quiet.

      Smooth on the draw beyond belief, but I'm used to shooting much heavier, so that could be a factor there.

      VERY quick considering it is only 50#, and I was shooting a 615gr (12.3 gpp) arrow out of it.

      My point on with it right now is 40 yards, which is 10 yards farther than with the 68# BW. Very good considering I am shooting 3 under. It's not as fast as the BW, but not much slower. The point on difference is more due to the elevated rest, and the almost square nock set.

      I'm going to chronograph it later to see some actual numbers (probably tomorrow).

      I know this - if the limbs I settle with perform anywhere near what these loaner limbs do - at the weight I'm shooting for they are going to be super high performers.

      Rick

      Comment


        #63
        Well done, Rick... very well done.

        Comment


          #64
          Cool deal Rick, those CC CARBONS have been good performance limbs for me. With those limbs on my 17" riser (53#) my hunting arrow was shooting 225 fps. I have several sets of them. Can pick them up for $150 or less most of the time. My SKY double carbon/ foam limbs are a little faster but also a little bit louder. Foam cores just have a different sound, not nessasarily louder but different.

          Hang on to them as long as you need to. Those are mostly wall hangers. I have a set of longs that are 1# heavier that I'm using for hunting anyway.

          Can't wait to see it all finished and painted. It's going to be one of the best looking WARFS out there.

          Comment


            #65
            Thanks Chip.

            Todd, 20/20 hind sight, but after doing more research & reading on TT, I discovered a way to utilize the ILF limbs without having to use the adapter plates, or machine a receiver into the riser. Turns out you can do the same thing, and produce a perfectly functional rocker point with just a bolt & some washers.

            The only draw back to the bolt & washers is it eliminates the quick detach feature, and you have to remove two bolts to remove the limb. No biggy.

            I'm going to leave this one as is, but may do another sometime in the future with one of my Firecat risers, and if so I will use the bolt attachment instead of the quick detach. I just think it looks better for the limbs to be down in the pockets. Functionality should be the same.

            Rick

            Comment


              #66
              Worked a little more on the limb pocket inlays this afternoon.

              I made a good template of the inlay areas.
              Then I picked out the character areas of the wood, that I wanted to use.
              All will have knot holes in them.

              I have them all marked off, but this is the only one I have cut out, and fitted into the riser at this point.

              The wood will be quite a bit darker when the sealer is applied. This one is sanded, and ready to be epoxied in, and sealed.

              It is just laying in there right now. I won't epoxy them in until I have the
              riser painted.



              Rick
              Last edited by RickBarbee; 05-27-2012, 05:45 PM.

              Comment


                #67
                I may just send my next one to you. Great job so far.

                Comment


                  #68
                  Originally posted by huntinpool View Post
                  I may just send my next one to you. Great job so far.
                  Thanks Bro.

                  Before you decide to do that, you may want to see the finished product. LOL

                  Rick

                  Comment


                    #69
                    I now have all of the inlays cut out, fitted to their pockets, and sanded for finish.





                    I still have the wood scale for the strike plate area to finish, and then the riser will be ready for it's final skin.

                    Rick

                    Comment


                      #70
                      I've decided to do the adjustable strike plate a little different than originally intended.

                      I decided to double stack the scale, and then sand it to 3/16" past center





                      After I get them epoxied in place, I will then drill a hole through the center piece the same size as a cushion plunger. The hole in the wood will be slightly larger, and the hole through the riser will be tapped/threaded.



                      The bolt will be counter sunk into the right side of the riser, with an adjustment capability of taking the strike plate end from 3/16" past to 1/8" before center, and will have a set screw (also counter sunk) on top of it to lock it in place once adjusted.

                      I will cover the strike plate end of the bolt with the fuzzy side of velcro.
                      Yes, I could use a cushion plunger, but in order to keep the bow legal (no moving parts) for some of the trad shoot I will be using a solid bolt locked into place.

                      I decided to do it this way to make it a little easier to accomplish, easier to adjust, and improve structural integrity of the mechanism.

                      Still have some cosmetic work to do on & around the scales.

                      Rick

                      Comment


                        #71
                        Looks fantastic so far. Awesome job.

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Originally posted by Ron Meloni View Post
                          Looks fantastic so far. Awesome job.
                          Thanks Ron.

                          I took a break from strings, and did quite a lot to the riser over the long weekend last weekend, but now I'm back to building strings, so I just have to grab a few minutes here & there when I can to work on the bow.

                          Gettin close though, and now I have to start tryin to save up for some limbs.

                          Rick

                          Comment


                            #73
                            I have about 98 screws and Allen set screws. I had to buy a box of 100 for my DAS bows to shoot of shelf. I can send you a few if you need them. I couldn't find the right size at any store around here. No charge ! Just let me know. Mine are 1/2" x5/16 fine thread , same as the current plunger hole.

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by huntinpool View Post
                              I have about 98 screws and Allen set screws. I had to buy a box of 100 for my DAS bows to shoot of shelf. I can send you a few if you need them. I couldn't find the right size at any store around here. No charge ! Just let me know. Mine are 1/2" x5/16 fine thread , same as the current plunger hole.
                              Thanks Todd.

                              I've already got it covered
                              Using a brass allen head for the inner adjustable, and a black anodized steel for the outside set screw.

                              I've got to do a little more work on the stacked scale, and get it epoxied in place. Once I get that done I'll take some pictures of the whole adjustable strike plate mechanism.

                              It's workin out pretty cool, and look nice too.

                              Rick

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Did a little more work on the riser this evening.

                                The following picture shows the double scale setting in place with the hole drilled through it, and through the riser. The hole in the riser is tapped to 5/16" NF thread.


                                The next picture shows the bolt that will be screwed into the riser. The bolt has a verlcro cap on it.


                                Face view of the bolt in place.


                                When screwed all the way out, it is quite a bit outside center.


                                When screwed all the way in flush, it is 3/16" inside center.


                                Showing the hole, and inset allen screw from the right side.


                                Still have a lot of finish/cosmetic work to do, and it will look quite different from this when I am done.
                                I hope to be able to get to town tomorrow for the rest of the materials I need to complete the riser mod. Maybe I'll get it finished this weekend.

                                Rick

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