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    #16
    Originally posted by Dry Bones View Post
    Refreshing my memory on the thread here. Rick, do you think the extra in Brace height is only because you have a longer draw OR do you think that the bow would perform better there for most? I realize it takes a lot of shooting for everyone to find that sweet spot on their rig and arrow combo, but since we are coming into the end of winter.. maybe. I have time for experimentation before Turkey season kicks off.
    Not so much the draw length, although it does come into play to some degree.

    It's really more to do with the length, and profile of the bow in question.

    Normally, the longer the bow, the higher the brace height will need to be, but then the profile of the overall bow comes into play, and will also have an impact on where the best brace height will fall.

    Speaking of recurves primarily - A deflex style bow will generally have a sweet spot brace height higher than the sweet spot brace height of a more straight handle, or reflex handle.

    The thing about that is - even though the brace heights will differ on different handle profiles, on the same length bows you will find the measurements from the fades of the limbs to the string to be close to the same.

    An example of that would be:
    I have two 64" bows.
    One with about a 2" reflex riser, the other with about a 2" deflex riser.
    The reflex riser bow shoots best with a 7-1/2" brace height.
    The deflex riser bow shoots best with a 8-3/4" brace height, yet when I measure from the fades of the limbs to the string on either bow the measurement is almost exactly the same, which means even though the brace heights are different, the limbs on both bows are preloading best at about the same spots.

    Hope that made some sense.

    Rick

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      #17
      Yes sir, it really does. The grip of the Bear Super Mag, to the Grizzly. LOTS of difference there and extreme hand to wrist alignment. BUT if they were of equal bow length ( I know they are not) the measurement from the fades to the string would be close to identical. Preload = the amount of load or stress on the limb at brace or resting point, which does not matter the design of the grip. Just curious enough now to start some measurements.

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        #18
        USPS tracking says my new riser is at my PO for pick up.

        I'm excited !!!

        Rick

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          #19
          Awesome, looking forward to reading how you like it.

          Comment


            #20
            Well, get it set up and show off some pics.

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              #21
              Received my 21" Optimus riser today from www.facebook.com/johnscustomarchery/

              1st Impression - I'm about 10 times more impressed, than what I expected to be.

              It is nothing short of superb as far as attention to detail, aesthetics, and craftsmanship are concerned.

              It also has a very nice "slightly" low of center balance, which I love.

              That's all before I even start setting it up.

              Stay tuned.









              Rick

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                #22
                The riser comes with a removable shelf, designed for shooting off the shelf.
                Nice little piece, and will work perfect for shooting feathers, but not so well for shooting vanes off the shelf.
                It's a little to low profile, and little to wide for my taste.



                So i set about installing one of my own design speed bump shelves with a center shot adjustment.







                If you're wondering about all that extra velcro in the sight window, well if you're a hunter, and ever clanked an arrow against the hard surface of a riser at the wrong time, then you know exactly what it's for.

                I mounted the quiver (with the included adapters for hard mounting), installed the limbs, and strung her up.

                Even though the riser is exactly the same length as the Hoyt Excel I was using, the take off angles of the limb pads the same, and the contact point of where the string leaves the limbs is the same, the brace height came in 1/2" lower than when on the Hoyt.

                The reason for the lower brace height is - the Optimus riser is slightly less deflex than the Hoyt riser.

                I have the limb bolts bottomed out.
                This gives me a 1/16" positive tiller (which I want), and the bow comes in at 69.5# at my draw of 29.5".

                It was 68# on the Hoyt, and I assume the reason for the bit more is due to the straighter handle.

                The bow is super quiet, super smooth on the draw, and extremely tame during the shot.
                The balance is pretty near perfect. Much better than the Hoyt.

                First 3 shots from 20 yards. Needs a tad of tuning but I'm happy.





                Stay tuned.

                Rick
                Last edited by RickBarbee; 01-29-2018, 05:24 PM.

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                  #23
                  By the way - I checked the limb alignment with my laser alignment tool, and without having to move anything the limbs are perfectly aligned.

                  Rick

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                    #24
                    Looks great.

                    I do the same thing with the velcro, even if I am shooting a compound with enclosed rest. I do my best to eliminate any chance of accidental noise. I have yet to hunt deer in Texas, but in PA they were so pressured on public land they would spook at a mouse fart.

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                      #25
                      I wound up going dead down the pipe with the center shot adjustment, a dead even tiller, and a 7/16" above square nocking point.

                      Rick

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                        #26
                        Last 3 shot of the day, after some fine tuning/tweaking.

                        10 yarder busted the nock on the 20 yarder and deflected.

                        I think I'm done with the tuning.



                        Rick

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                          #27
                          Rick,
                          Appreciate the review on your new ILF riser. I've been eyeballing a TradTech Titan III for awhile, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

                          I'm a fan of your yarn puffs and have made them for all my strings after watching your YouTube video.

                          I've read you should divide your string length in quarters and place the puffs one quarter of the way from the end of the string. Yours look a little closer to end of string in these pics.

                          Am I wrong about that?

                          Todd

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by twillgo View Post
                            Rick,
                            Appreciate the review on your new ILF riser. I've been eyeballing a TradTech Titan III for awhile, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

                            I'm a fan of your yarn puffs and have made them for all my strings after watching your YouTube video.

                            I've read you should divide your string length in quarters and place the puffs one quarter of the way from the end of the string. Yours look a little closer to end of string in these pics.

                            Am I wrong about that?

                            Todd
                            The Titan III is a great riser. If you get one you'll likely like it real well.

                            You're right about the puffs. I install mine at 10.5" from the ends of the loops when I build the strings, then make minor adjustments if needed for sound adjustment, and/or tuning tweaks

                            The puffs on this particular bow are 11.5" from the ends of the loops, and 12.5" from the ends of the limb tips.

                            Rick

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
                              The Titan III is a great riser. If you get one you'll likely like it real well.

                              You're right about the puffs. I install mine at 10.5" from the ends of the loops when I build the strings, then make minor adjustments if needed for sound adjustment, and/or tuning tweaks

                              The puffs on this particular bow are 11.5" from the ends of the loops, and 12.5" from the ends of the limb tips.

                              Rick
                              Rick how did you come up with that starting point to install the puffs? The ones I use you tie in and would be tough to adjust but I would be interested to know if bow type, length, etc make a difference.

                              Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by DRT View Post
                                Rick how did you come up with that starting point to install the puffs? The ones I use you tie in and would be tough to adjust but I would be interested to know if bow type, length, etc make a difference.

                                Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk
                                Gary, it's just where most have always worked best for me, so it's where I start.

                                Some I never have to move. Others need a little tweaking, but seldom much.

                                I don't tie my silencers in. I equally separate the strands/bundles of the string, and insert the silencers. Then they will just slide to where I want them, and stay put.

                                On the silencers I build, you can leave the tag ends of the middle tie long, and tie them in with those if desired, but I've never needed to.

                                Rick

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