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    #31
    Originally posted by MONSTERKEN View Post
    So bc I don't know, I am going to ask. What is the difference between say a 62" bow from a 64", or a 66"? I am assuming it'll affect the draw weight??

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    I have a longer draw. Shorter bows tend to stack on me past 28”. A longer bow the poundage goes up gradually past 28”. Shorter ones the weight increases way quicker. Or at least it feels like it

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      #32
      Originally posted by KenWood View Post
      I have a longer draw. Shorter bows tend to stack on me past 28”. A longer bow the poundage goes up gradually past 28”. Shorter ones the weight increases way quicker. Or at least it feels like it
      What does that mean, "stack on me?"

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        #33
        The weight increases faster per inch of draw.

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          #34
          Originally posted by MONSTERKEN View Post
          What does that mean, "stack on me?"

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          I'm sure you have seen draw curves for a compound. stick bows have draw curves too. As you get past certain draw lengths, the poundage increases rapidly rather than a smooth progression. Stacking is when you feel that obvious increase in draw weight quickly at the back end of your draw.

          Typically, the shorter the bow limbs, the more it will stack past a certain draw length. I don't remember the number, but there is a rule of thumb that your limb lengths should be a certain percentage of your draw length. A bowyer will recommend a certain bow length for your draw length because of stacking.

          I have a 58" bow. I was thinking of going to 56" but the bowyer said I'd be more happy at 58" for my draw length (27") and his design... so that is what I did.

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            #35
            Can you guys school me on arrow set up? I haven't had my draw length measured yet, but this is the setup I am thinking about going with. I am a big proponent of heavy arrows, my compound hunting arrows are 635gr. So I'd like to run fairly heavy with a recurve as well. So with that being said, I'm thinking I'd like to run a 200gr field point or Broadhead, coupled with a 75gr brass insert. Also, with that being said, what would be a recommended fletching? I have everything I need to build my own arrows, arrow saw, jigs, spinner, etc, so playing/experimenting with arrows is not a problem.

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              #36
              Originally posted by MONSTERKEN View Post
              Can you guys school me on arrow set up? I haven't had my draw length measured yet, but this is the setup I am thinking about going with. I am a big proponent of heavy arrows, my compound hunting arrows are 635gr. So I'd like to run fairly heavy with a recurve as well. So with that being said, I'm thinking I'd like to run a 200gr field point or Broadhead, coupled with a 75gr brass insert. Also, with that being said, what would be a recommended fletching? I have everything I need to build my own arrows, arrow saw, jigs, spinner, etc, so playing/experimenting with arrows is not a problem.

              Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
              Unlike center shot, device release, compounds, we use dynamic spine to adjust left/right hits due to deflection caused by finger release and off center shelves.

              Dynamic spine is a combination of the draw weight at release, the spine of the arrow, tip weight, etc.

              So as you can see it will be important to know your draw weight and draw length to help you find a ball park of where to start. Remember, draw weight for a given bow is a factor of you actual draw length.

              Given you don't really know your draw length all that much, I would start with uncut arrows (about 31-32" depending on manufacturer) in a spine that is in the ball park given the broadhead weights you want to use. Once you get your draw length dialed in, you can cut arrows and play with weight, etc to bring it back to the dynamic spine you will need for your bow setup.

              Fine tuning your arrows is pretty lengthy process BTW... and consistent form plays a big big... I mean BIG role in fine tuning, so don't try and jump to that off the bat.

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                #37
                To select arrows, I would download the Stu Miller Dynamic Spine Calculator to get you started. You can play around with the variables until you get close as you can, and build just a few arrows (5-6) to those specs. I will tell you that trying to do arrow tuning before your form gets consistent is a frustrating exercise and likely futile. It is impossible to know what arrow flight is telling you eg: weak or stiff, if you're not drawing, anchoring, releasing the same way every time.
                Last edited by jerp; 03-28-2018, 02:21 PM.

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                  #38
                  If you haven't already watch "The Push - A Traditional Archery Film". Some good info in that, especially for beginners. Otherwise you have been given a lot of good information in this thread. Nothing much I can add without being redundant.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by stickbowcoop View Post
                    If you haven't already watch "The Push - A Traditional Archery Film". Some good info in that, especially for beginners. Otherwise you have been given a lot of good information in this thread. Nothing much I can add without being redundant.
                    Haha, I've been ALL OVER YouTube looking at videos. I'm a YouTube archery video junkie!!!

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                      #40
                      Your in McKinney
                      Find Glen Bryant, he lives there and is a lefty.
                      Not a bad shot, and bet he would be willing to answer any ? you have.

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                        #41
                        I know you said you don't like sight unseen but I'll vouch for stickbow website and the guys on it. There is a Bob Lee bow that won't disappoint I assure you. The price is good too. 40-45# would be perfect to hunt and learn on. Check your pm.

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                          #42
                          If your place is anywhere near Chester you should consider going to the Stickbow 3D tournament the weekend of May 19th.

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                            #43
                            Check out RMSGrear.com for some good used bows.

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                              #44
                              Sorry guys, works been putting me through the grind as of late. Don't know whether I'm coming or going half the time. I have recieved LOTS of great info from y'all. THANKS!! So here's another question for ya, there are a couple of really nice lh bows on classifieds. One is a Stalker which I am familiar with as I listen to the Gritty Bowman podcast, and the Kifarucast podcast, the other is a Brackenberg (sp?). Both are over 50lbs draw weight at 28" and 29" respectively. Would that be WAAAAAAAY to much for a greenhorn rookie like myself?

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                                #45
                                Probably Brackenbury. Those are both real nice, high end bows (I have not seen the ads, just talking about the brands).

                                You said both were over 50#, but you did not say exactly what either of them are? Not knowing that, and not knowing your true draw length in a trad bow, it’s almost impossible to give any real advice as to whether they are too much for you to start with?????

                                Bisch


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