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Split guard rasp bowie

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    Split guard rasp bowie

    I would not say that I am good at slotted guards, but they are something that a knife maker needs to learn to do. Have not seen a WIP on one in here, so I will put one together for this knife. Farrier rasp Bowie, full flat grind, 3/8 slotted guard, a tapered tang, and Texas flag scales. 14 inches overall. Likely heat treat Tuesday. I'll try and shoot some pics of that. Likely take me several weeks to get through this one, as I have quite a few other projects on tap.




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    #2
    In for the show!!

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      #3
      Looks great!


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        #4
        Following

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          #5
          Looking good.

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            #6
            Looking good Jason; I'm in the process of buying a mill that will come in handy for guards and other things. Looking for one that will do what I want and will fit in the shop, I don't have much room left.
            There's a lot of things I could do if I have one, not to mention would speed up my process, I'm wanting to equip my shop with what I want, before I retire from the corporate world. Hopefully REAL soon.

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              #7
              Split guard rasp bowie

              Originally posted by Bjankowski View Post
              Looking good Jason; I'm in the process of buying a mill that will come in handy for guards and other things. Looking for one that will do what I want and will fit in the shop, I don't have much room left.

              There's a lot of things I could do if I have one, not to mention would speed up my process, I'm wanting to equip my shop with what I want, before I retire from the corporate world. Hopefully REAL soon.


              Yeah, a mill is a great tool. I got mine about a year ago, barely scratched the surface of its potential. I bought a Rong Fu 31. What mill are you looking at?


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                #8
                I'm leaning towards the WEISS VM-32L, but I'm still looking. I have to get something with 120v, I'm maxed out on power unless I put in a sub panel, and moving is part of my retirement plan so that could be a factor.

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                  #9
                  I heat treated the blade today and it came out good. Have in the tempering oven now. Should start making progress in the next few days.

                  Rasp knives are always an adventure. Sometimes they harden, sometimes they don't. I did three today, and two came out right.

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                    #10
                    For a long time, I believed that almost all farrier rasps were made of 1095 or something similar, but after failing to get a few hard when others in the same batch got hard, I did some spark testing. I'm convinced now that they are not all 1095. I suspect some may be case hardened, too. I have the best luck with Bellotta.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by SamHarper View Post
                      For a long time, I believed that almost all farrier rasps were made of 1095 or something similar, but after failing to get a few hard when others in the same batch got hard, I did some spark testing. I'm convinced now that they are not all 1095. I suspect some may be case hardened, too. I have the best luck with Bellotta.
                      I had a forum member bring me a knife from a rasp he couldn't heat treat, turned out to be case hardened.

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                        #12
                        I have used diamond rasps without any issues. I have found Nichols files to be hit and miss on what's case hardened.

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                          #13
                          Finish ground and hand sanded to 400 on one side. Noticed a faint hamon that I am not going to do anything with. Plan to hand sand to 800 grit, to try to keep rust away. This thing rusts something fierce! Should finish polishing the blade tomorrow, and start working on the guard.



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                            #14
                            Got the guard fit up. In the one picture, notice how I use the mill to relieve the back a little more than necessary. This makes fitting the front up much easier. Polish the face of the guard before you pin it.





                            On these next two pictures, grind the top of the guard to within about 1/16 of flush, then peen the top edge toward the blade. This will tighten the joint along the top and make for a much better fit. I use a 3/32 pin punch and a tiny hammer. You want control, not power.





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                              #15
                              Got 'er done. 14" overall.



                              Last edited by Jason Fry; 04-04-2017, 12:37 PM.

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