Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Austin Area Gunsmith (case removal)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Try shooting some compressed air in a can up the chamber before the brushes.. Cooling the brass will shrink it and maybe give you just enough free play to force it out

    Comment


      #17
      Update:

      The case did not come out with any of the standard extraction tools or methods. Looks like the barrel is going to have to be removed to get access to the case.

      When I break something, I do not just do a half-assed job of it.

      Comment


        #18
        Another update:

        Mark Pharr at Tumbleweeds Custom Rifles had it out in a couple minutes.

        Unfortunately, prior attempts at removal left a large burr inside the chamber. Note the spiral on the outside of the case. It will now need some lathe / polish work, but should be fixed in short order.



        Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

        Comment


          #19
          How was he able to remove it?

          Comment


            #20
            He removed the barrel and then had a tool that threaded into the case from the chamber end of the barrel. From inspecting the inside of the case, it only threaded into the case less than 1/4 inch or so. 1/8 of a turn, maybe, and the case released and he just spun it out.

            As a computer geek I never took a shop class, but it resembled a tap from a die and tap set.

            Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by howabouttheiris View Post
              He removed the barrel and then had a tool that threaded into the case from the chamber end of the barrel. From inspecting the inside of the case, it only threaded into the case less than 1/4 inch or so. 1/8 of a turn, maybe, and the case released and he just spun it out.

              As a computer geek I never took a shop class, but it resembled a tap from a die and tap set.

              Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
              Like an EZ Out?

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by bearintex View Post
                Like an EZ Out?
                I'd say yes. Some sort of a fine thread spiral bolt extractor.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Man you’d be better off replacing the barrel. Idk what the work cost you but you can swap savage barrels yourself for cheap

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by trophy8 View Post
                    Man you’d be better off replacing the barrel. Idk what the work cost you but you can swap savage barrels yourself for cheap
                    this... or upgrade to a sporter heavy barrel for like 300$
                    i have the go and nogo gauges for my 300 Id let you use

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by kingranch View Post
                      upgrade to a sporter heavy barrel for like 300$
                      It currently has the stainless 30" heavy magnum precision varmint barrel.

                      If I knew it was going to play out like this, I would have probably replaced it.

                      Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Based on your pic above, the burr or gouge in the metal is likely where the case head meets the chamber. It should polish right out in the lathe. Worst case scenario you may have a tiny dimple from where the burr was polished or re-reamed.

                        Personally, I wouldn't worry about it since it's not in the neck, throat, bore or rifling areas.

                        If Mark's not comfortable with the burr, have him set the barrel back a few .001's then re-thread and chamber.

                        example of chamber cutaway
                        Last edited by Cajun Blake; 08-07-2018, 01:02 PM.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by Cajun Blake View Post
                          Worst case scenario you may have a tiny dimple from where the burr was polished
                          I agree, at least that is the hope. I suspect I may have a small brass signature each time fired, as you pointed out, because the material came from somewhere. Since it is single feed, I guess I could rotate the orientation of my brass each time fired and use it to count my reloads per case. How about that for optimism?

                          We will test fire at the smith to ensure it is not excessive or binds the case causing an extraction issue.

                          Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                            #28
                            what cartridge ?

                            Comment


                              #29
                              .308 out of a Savage Model 12 f/tr.

                              Offending round was a Starline brass, 2nd time reloaded, 168gn hornady match, in front of 43.7gn of IMR4064. (Of which I have fired literally 1000s, without issue)

                              Case jammed, failed to eject, and then separated when being tapped out with a rod.

                              Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I had one stuck and being that I own a shop building engines I removed bolt, had a rod in the case . Used a product called Minnesota fast freeze .

                                I sprays the case and it contracted so much it did not need any pressure it went loose on the spot . Easy enough to take in your bag when you shoot . I have had to use it a few times now . reloading and you stick a case works great for that as well .. Silly simple wear gloves though its extremely cold

                                Link below


                                Use Minnesota Fast Freeze from Goodson when installing seats, guides, pistons, bushings, pins, shafts, etc. This easy to use aerosol instantly chills parts to -50 degrees F.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X