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Woodsman Broadheads

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    #16
    Light pressure on a belt sander and hone is what I did when I shot them. Just keep the temp down

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      #17
      I like the woodsman elites

      Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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        #18
        To me they look like elongated Montec G5 heads. I love the design but if this head was 1/4 shorter in length and ad that steel to the width I'd like them better. I quit the Montecs because of the tiny holes they leave.

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          #19
          Originally posted by DRT View Post
          B a s t a r d, mill, what cut?
          Not sure of the cut, but 3Rivers has the Grobet USA in 3 different lengths, and they work great.

          Rick

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            #20
            I shot them when the Wensels still made them. They fly well and made nice holes.

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              #21
              I shot the VPA 3 blades for a while and they're similar. To get them sharp I marked the edges with a sharpie, then pushed them back and forth across a coarse diamond stone with fairly heavy pressure until I removed the ink and had the edge set. The I just pushed them across one way counting the strokes like sharpening a knife until I could feel they were sharp. Then I finished them up on a diamond stone. I killed that fallow doe at Big Oak with one and it did good.

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                #22
                Originally posted by DRT View Post
                If I have to use a file to get a broadhead usable right out of the pack I don't think I would buy them more than once. But there was another guy did the same thing. Do you lose much weight on the head doing that?
                All I use to sharpen my Zwickeys is a file. I strop the burr off with a leather belt and they are plenty sharp. It is the only broadhead I have used and they have done plenty of killing.

                When I get my Zwickey's out of the package, they run about 178gr and putting a better edge and and getting rid of the concave nature of the edge, I take off about 6-8 grains. The determining factor on how much you lose will be how flat the edge is when it comes out of the package.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by DRT View Post
                  I have two blade heads. I hate the blood trails with them.

                  Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk
                  Just for my own knowledge here. I thought that a two blade cut-on-contact broadhead was the best option for traditional shooters. At least that's what I've read.

                  No offense intended.

                  Richard.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Junkers88 View Post
                    Just for my own knowledge here. I thought that a two blade cut-on-contact broadhead was the best option for traditional shooters. At least that's what I've read.

                    No offense intended.

                    Richard.
                    You are right that a two-blade will theoretically give you the best penetration. A lot of trad guys won't shoot anything else and they are especially recommended for lower draw weight bows. Some (like me) think you get a considerably better blood trail with a cut-on-contact three blade. Opinions vary on minimum poundage necessary to get adequate penetration with a three blade but I have not had a problem killing deer and pigs with them and I pull only 50lbs. (It might be a problem if I was shooting a really huge pig) Another reason I like them is that they are very easy to sharpen.
                    Last edited by jerp; 06-06-2017, 11:25 AM.

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                      #25
                      I would rather have a hole than a slit. Now if the two blade say had an inch and half or more cutting width it would be better.

                      Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Junkers88 View Post
                        Just for my own knowledge here. I thought that a two blade cut-on-contact broadhead was the best option for traditional shooters. At least that's what I've read.

                        No offense intended.

                        Richard.
                        Gary is saying he doesn't like them because of the blood trail. In theory, you should get a better blood trail the more you can open up the wound channel.

                        Imagine standing next to an above ground pool. If you put one small slit.. it will leak. Make a cross slit and watch it open and water will pour out faster.

                        3 blades also just give you another blade cutting up stuff as it passes through. Of course, on the flip side, that tree blade has more surface area drag, is harder to deflect through a rib, etc. So depending on poundage, you might not be able to get and entry and exit hole. In my opinion, having both holes is important too. 2 holes means you have 2 areas for blood to come out. This is especially true if you are shooting from an elevated position.

                        Good blood trails are important for recovering game that just doesn't fall within sight. A good blood trail can help narrow down a search significantly.

                        My personal opinion/experience though is that good blood trails, first and foremost, come from good shots, regardless of small differences in broad head design. I have used the same broad head for the last 3 years and have killed a few critters with them. I have had some really outstanding blood trails. I have also had some not so great blood trails. On the not so great blood trails, the hits have usually been high lung hits with both holes above mid body. When this happens... the lungs deflate and the blood pools inside the cavity and the critter gives up very little blood to the ground except where it finally fell. The shots that gave great blood trails were lung or heart shots where at least one hole was in the lower 1/3 of the animal and most especially near the armpit. Here, the blood drains out through the lower hole and the front running leg aids in pumping it out onto the ground. In all those cases, the critters only ran 30-60 yards, but the amount of blood on the ground was more dependent of shot placement than anything else.

                        I have thought about trying out the 3 blade designs. I have also thought about using the Simmons broadheads... but laziness and the fact that I have been fairly successful in recovering properly hit game.

                        I do have some friends that shoot compounds with some pretty impressive cutting broadheads (read 3 blade expandable) that have had some pretty good blood trails initially that made you think it was a great hit... but those trail turned out to be a dead end. Meaning that it helped the animal bleed more and longer... but it was still just a bleeding flesh wound.

                        My #1 rule is that you should give your broadhead the best chance it can on getting through an animal. In my mind that means a stout head with some steel behind the edge (not a fan of flimsy razor blade vented things.) It means a head with a 3:1 cutting angle and not much steeper. It must be able to be made sharp!

                        To the original question... the only thing I don't like about the broadhead is that it is vented.

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                          #27
                          The thing I like about vented is non vented blades are generally easier to fold over. They are more likely to plane in flight although I don't know if at trad bow speeds that means anything. However they are quieter in flight.

                          Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk

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                            #28
                            That said I have left some huge holes with awesome blood trails using Rage heads and their knock offs. Two blades just huge cuts.

                            Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by DRT View Post
                              The thing I like about vented is non vented blades are generally easier to fold over.
                              Fold over? vs what? snapping? I have seen plenty bent/snapped vented blades than anything else. It is why I don't like them. I suppose the same kind of impact could fold a solid, but it is not like the vented survives any better. They are both equally trashed. And when it boils down to it, it is the edge that matters. I can mend a rolled edge on a solid head... I can't mend an broken vented head.

                              I still wonder about vents and the drag that comes from tissue lodging itself into the vent. Ask youself... why don't they have vented knives? Because when you slice through something, that something is still usually under compression and can fill in those voids. The trailing edge of that void is going to not always just easily pull apart what is being compressed into it... especially if the tail end is being torqued. Just something that always caught me as being odd when folks vent blades. I am pretty sure they do it mainly to shave weight... but I am no longer concerned with weight of my broadhead.

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                                #30
                                The only advantage a 2 blade (might) have over a 3 blade is better penetration for lower energy bows, when the broadhead encounters a hard surface such as bone.

                                Other than that the 3 blade beats the two blade hands down if you have the energy to push it, and most hunting weight trad bows, with sufficient weight arrows do.

                                Here's a video illustration a 2 blade cut compared to a 3 blade cut. Should be an eye opener.

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                                EDIT:
                                A single bevel 2 blade will improve upon the opening of the cut, but still not near as good as a 3 blade. The 3 blade won't kill any better, or quicker, but it provides a much better chance for a good blood trail.

                                Rick
                                Last edited by RickBarbee; 06-06-2017, 02:08 PM.

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