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    #46
    LOTS of good info here, but remember if it works for you then keep going. Just some food for thought. I shoot a 51# @ my 27" draw longbow. My arrows are the GT 500 Nugent pinks (easy to find and I like the way they look). I have 100 grain brass inserts + 145 grain heads. Arrows are cut to 29". I have NO CLUE what the stupid numbers on the "calculator say" My arrows weighs in at 507 grain. My Broadheads actually weigh 20 grains more than the filed points and I notice "0" difference in flight.
    -The reason I posted this is to just get your mind turning that you can really add up nose weight in carbon arrows. I do not neccessarily think it's mandatory as few things are. I honestly think a full length arrow flies VERY good set-up the same way. The pig in my avatar was killed with this set-up and most of the shaft was hanging out the backside.
    Best of luck and welcome to the trad bow. :-)

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      #47
      I had no clue but just using the force and trying to make it rocket science almost made me give up before I started.

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        #48
        Agreed!!!^^

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          #49
          The Zen master showed me the path of wiser choice and even though I've learned more about the ways of the force it's not rocket science. It just takes a lot of shooting and willingness to make small adjustments to get it where it works for you. It took me 6 months to get to the point where I felt like I knew where I was. Not that I was where I need to be but at least I wasn't just drifting and adjusting all the time after that.

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            #50
            After a great practice session yesterday, i totally suck today.
            I learned i need to build a nice backstop[emoji58]


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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              #51
              36x48 inch horse stall mat from tractor supply. I still need mine too. I have days when I can shoot like this at 20 plus yards. Then days when I have to be at 12 yards to shoot that well. Hang in there and shoot daily.

              Sent from my SM-J710MN using Tapatalk

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                #52
                Originally posted by Dry Bones View Post
                LOTS of good info here, but remember if it works for you then keep going. Just some food for thought. I shoot a 51# @ my 27" draw longbow. My arrows are the GT 500 Nugent pinks (easy to find and I like the way they look). I have 100 grain brass inserts + 145 grain heads. Arrows are cut to 29". I have NO CLUE what the stupid numbers on the "calculator say" My arrows weighs in at 507 grain. My Broadheads actually weigh 20 grains more than the filed points and I notice "0" difference in flight.
                -The reason I posted this is to just get your mind turning that you can really add up nose weight in carbon arrows. I do not neccessarily think it's mandatory as few things are. I honestly think a full length arrow flies VERY good set-up the same way. The pig in my avatar was killed with this set-up and most of the shaft was hanging out the backside.
                Best of luck and welcome to the trad bow. :-)
                This is the same route I took to build my arrows for my 62#@28" bow. I wanted the availability of 100/125gr points/heads so I can buy them off any retail shop if I was ever in a bind. Luckily, I have a short draw and with 3Rivers dynamic calc I can run 29.5" arrows with 100gr brass/100gr points and I'm well within tuning parameters... almost perfect even.

                OP: Depending on what glue you used on your inserts, if they are already done, you can pop them out with a drill bit by inserting it from the nock end of the arrow and slinging it (just watch your walls... it WILL punch through drywall). 3Rivers has 100gr brass inserts that fit .244 Carbon Express PERFECTLY (I left a review on there when I installed them in my PileDrivers).
                Last edited by JPR79; 06-02-2017, 03:44 PM.

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by SwampRabbit View Post
                  I figured you probably ran down to bowzone during lunch. They are great folks, but know very little about trad and trad shooting.

                  I still went there for arrows for a while, but honestly, the lady who does their arrows kept cutting them wrong and I just eventually got the stuff to make up my own. It is cheaper in the long run too.

                  Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
                  This. Coming from a compound shooter converted to trad, the arrow dynamics are drastically different. Techs and shops that deal with mostly compound just don't know.

                  I found out the hard way myself trying to use my short 400 spine Gold Tip Velocity XTs with ~175gr up front, brass inserts (50gr) and points, and they were wayyyy too light (~400gr) and too short to tune well. Go as heavy as you can, the speed difference in shooting a lighter arrow in a traditional bow is really not a help AT ALL and increases noise and hand shock. My newly built 536gr 400 spine Pile Drivers are down right nasty accurate and fun to shoot. Go heavy or go home.

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                    #54
                    I pulled out the 500 spine arrows I got when I shot the Sage. Cut them to 28.5 and 175 grain heads and they fly perfect in my Widow drawing 50lbs @mdl. But Black Eagle arrows aren't listed on the calculator. They are heavier than my other 500 spine arrows which are cut at 27.5 to get the same flight.

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                      #55
                      I almost hate to post this. I was given a dozen CE 250's a while back and I intended on making them for my 45lb Griz. I ran them through the 3rivers spine chart and went with it. Bare shafted them to tune, cut to 31.5", 100g brass insert, 150g point, 3 5" feathers fletched. They shot very very very well although they dropped out past 20yds quickly. I was told by my teacher at the time that the arrows I was shooting wouldn't ever be fast enough to hunt with so I took them apart and put the shafts in my "useless" box. They chrono'd at about 150fps. His take was if you aren't moving shafts at +200fps you have no business hunting. BS. That was almost a year ago and I'm looking at those shafts right now considering putting them back together. They shot GREAT for me.

                      My point is this. Get on 3Rivers Spine Calculator for a baseline. Load them with weight up front, shoot them bare and tune them to fit you and your form. No one can tell you how to or what to shoot. It either works for you or it doesn't.

                      Richard

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                        #56
                        [emoji106]

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by Junkers88 View Post
                          I almost hate to post this. I was given a dozen CE 250's a while back and I intended on making them for my 45lb Griz. I ran them through the 3rivers spine chart and went with it. Bare shafted them to tune, cut to 31.5", 100g brass insert, 150g point, 3 5" feathers fletched. They shot very very very well although they dropped out past 20yds quickly. I was told by my teacher at the time that the arrows I was shooting wouldn't ever be fast enough to hunt with so I took them apart and put the shafts in my "useless" box. They chrono'd at about 150fps. His take was if you aren't moving shafts at +200fps you have no business hunting. BS. That was almost a year ago and I'm looking at those shafts right now considering putting them back together. They shot GREAT for me.

                          My point is this. Get on 3Rivers Spine Calculator for a baseline. Load them with weight up front, shoot them bare and tune them to fit you and your form. No one can tell you how to or what to shoot. It either works for you or it doesn't.

                          Richard
                          Yes, but. For your draw, that bow is closer to 50. You have an inch more shaft (weaker) and alot more weight up front (weaker)... so those arrows were spined okay.

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                            #58
                            This thread reminds why I am so fond of bareshaft tuning. It takes a lot of the guess work out of proper arrow length and spine your bow wants to shoot. I do use PinWheel Software for Archers to get me in the ballpark. But then I rely on my bareshaft results to fine tune it.

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                              #59
                              Im going to put some more weight up front on the 250's and see where it gets me. I did ruin one of the feathers on one arrow so i'll strip it for bare shaft tuning.
                              Havent run it through a Chrono and dont really plan too. Wont shoot at game past 15-20 anyway if i can get consistent enough at those ranges. The way i figure, if i can kill a pig with it, i can deer hunt with it.


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                                #60
                                Originally posted by bloodstick View Post
                                Im going to put some more weight up front on the 250's and see where it gets me. I did ruin one of the feathers on one arrow so i'll strip it for bare shaft tuning.
                                Havent run it through a Chrono and dont really plan too. Wont shoot at game past 15-20 anyway if i can get consistent enough at those ranges. The way i figure, if i can kill a pig with it, i can deer hunt with it.


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                                Pig huntin is probably the best practice for deer huntin. The best thing about it is who cares if you miss. Good luck!

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