Originally posted by Dixiehunter
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LS Swap: 1996 K1500
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Originally posted by 1369 View PostSo far so good. No real fading issues. A few spots where it's rubbed flat, but nothing major.Last edited by ShredLikeRed; 03-31-2017, 01:57 PM.
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well if it were me I would put a stright axle up front. I had a 98 K2500 with 4.88 gears and 37 hummer take offs that ate up ball joints. The 350 is a great motor always dreamed of a 383 stroker. But I miss my old chevy. I would definitely look for a used 350 or 6.0 if you plan on anything bigger than 33's I would re gear to 4.10 or 4.56. Also as mentioned earlier get a 4L80E tranny, they are pretty tough when adding horsepower.
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Straight axle swaps are cool, but good ones are really expensive and most aren't a lot of fun on the highway.
There aren't really any GOOD leveling kits for that year model. I'd stick in that 3-4 inch susp. lift range, Mark. Assuming you'll be running up to a few hundred miles per trip on occaision, that will give you room for 33s but keep the geometry right and CV angles in a good reliable range, won't eat up those smaller 1/2 ton brakes ....and not require a gear swap. I think that's your sweet spot for tire/mileage/driveability/cool stance. Get a good one that drops the front diff though, and include any and all steering gear stiffeners and upgrades available. I'm a believer in billstein shocks of the appropriate length, as well as steering stabilizer.
One thing you might consider is rear lift springs, instead of blocks. If it was a 3/4 I wouldn't worry about it, but if you start sneaking up on 400hp with those 1/2 ton springs AND blocks...you are liable to get axle wrap and that eats up U-joints and makes for a harsh take off under "git some" throttle.Last edited by Dale Moser; 03-31-2017, 09:49 PM.
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Originally posted by Dale Moser View PostStraight axle swaps are cool, but good ones are really expensive and most aren't a lot of fun on the highway.
There aren't really any GOOD leveling kits for that year model. I'd stick in that 3-4 inch susp. lift range, Mark. Assuming you'll be running up to a few hundred miles per trip on occaision, that will give you room for 33s but keep the geometry right and CV angles in a good reliable range, won't eat up those smaller 1/2 ton brakes ....and not require a gear swap. I think that's your sweet spot for tire/mileage/driveability/cool stance. Get a good one that drops the front diff though, and include any and all steering gear stiffeners and upgrades available. I'm a believer in billstein shocks of the appropriate length, as well as steering stabilizer.
Agreed. Mud truck on 40's you need straight axle but a beefed up driver is good on a mild lift and 33's
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Well, found a shop in town that's done a bunch of swaps like mine and even has 2 in the shop at the moment. After talking to the owner and telling him what I am looking for, here's where we are at the moment.
Chevrolet Performance LS 6.0 376/480 HP Engines Link to motor specs
TD PERFORMANCE LS ENGINE INTO 88-98 4WD
CHEVY/GMC 1500 TRUCKS & SUVS;
AUTO/MANUAL TRANSMISSION; HTC SILVER
CERAMIC COATED HEADERS
Transmission 4L80 with transfer case
Flowmaster Exhust System
Rear Drive Shaft W Greasable CV and slip Yoke
Custom Front Drive Shaft W CV Yoke
Should go into the shop in two weeks. Looking at a 6" lift as well. He showed me a truck similar to mine he did that on and was able to use the same rims with slightly taller tires and it looked really clean.Last edited by 1369; 05-03-2017, 07:48 PM.
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