How many of yall?

[caughtandhobble]

Personally, bare shafting is the easiest tool that I have found in bare bow shooting.

Like stated above, form has to be consistent in order to get reliable results.

Like Bisch, I always paper tuned when I had an archery shop around the corner from my house. I even made a frame that stayed in my way on every project I ever started in the garage. Once I discovered "Bare Shafting" I never looked back. On the rare occasion that I make a road trip to an archery shop I always shoot paper and chronograph just for fun. For the record, every time that I have shot paper, I do get bullet holes. Every time I shoot thru the chrono, my bows are still slow

Some people like to tinker, some don't. I always thought I liked to tinker before I met "Lil John" he is a mad scientist tinkerer, lol. OK, I like to play to the point I tinker too much. Sometimes I screw up a near perfect set-up to try something new. I will say that I have learned from tinkering but most of the time if I would've just listened to Bisch or Rick I would have saved some time.

Yes, I Bare Shaft tune and love it!!!!

[Phillip Fields]

I bare shaft at about 20 yards and trim until they hit the same as field points. If they're a tad on the weak side it's ok (unless your arrow is eradic with broadheads). After I bare shaft I shoot fletched arrows with field points and broadheads to make sure everything is perfect. The broadheads will magnify any imperfections in your arrow spine and you can make appropriate changes as needed.

Same way I do it.

[JEFFRO]

NEVER, I do the math add 1 inch and fine tune..

[Maddog20/20]

How many of yall actually bareshaft tune your trad bows?

I have a problem im trying to fix. With my bareshafts.
They show weak but my fletched arrows fly good. Im about to pull my hair out over it. But im starting to think i wont be shooting bareshafts at pigs so i should just let it be

I always bareshaft my arrows to tune. What I generally do (assuming I'm changing arrows) is order a multipack with different spines (can't remember if it's 3Rivers or Lancaster that sells those) . You want to shoot them until you get a fairly regular pattern of which is weak and which is stiff. The problem is that you have to have a bulletproof form and release to get a truly meaningful measurement bareshaft.

You want to choose the one closest to true while still a little weak. If it's only a little weak, you don't even need to cut it and you can just fletch it because those feathers will straighten it out nicely or you can adjust it with your tip weight.

If you go too stiff, you can always increase the tip weight, but that's kind of hard to get right.

Either way, if they're flying true fletched I suppose that's all that really matters. I get a little too meticulous with my arrow building and that makes it take way longer than it should, but even with mine (Easton trads), I'm never able to get a perfectly true arrow bare shaft. It's probably inconsistencies in my release, but either way, like you, they fly straight when I fletch them so it's game on!

[gettin closer]

I just got some new arrows in on Friday and bare shaft tuned them on Sunday. This is the way I learned and never have tried paper tuning. With feathers, they can correct the flight before your eyes notice a change or improper flight. That is there job. They also distract from what the shaft is doing. If you get them bare shaft tuned just right, you will ultimately have better pennitration and speed as energy is not being used to straighten the flight of the arrow. Feathers will also make the spine stiffer. (Not considerably but just a pinch. So if you are bare starting and are a hair on the weak side. Once you add feathers, you are dead on. Again, this is talking about a hair difference.)

[steve morton]

I usually have a couple of arrows that will not shoot consistently when i get a new batch and I use them for varmit control retaining the others for hunting.