Paper Vs. bare shaft tuning.

[Traildust]

Where do you draw the line. I’ve got two different arrows making decent holes in paper. Bare shafts with both kick right. Keep tweaking or run with it? And where should I make changes to get the bare shafts lining up and nice holes in paper?





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Violence never settles anything
-Genghis Kahn

Get your finished arrows and hobble back tune to 70-80 yards. Paper is for wiping your arse! You shoot consistent groups at that distance, you're golden.


Just saw you had an injury.

[Outbreaker]

At what distance/distances should one achieve this perfect paper tear?

I paper tune at about 3 yds (target at 10). Then I bare shaft at 10yds then I broadhead tune at 20yds,

[enewman]

Why 10ft? Why not 3', 5', 7', 9', 11' or 16.5'?

Also, when you're done bare shaft tuning, fletch your arrows and screw on a broad head and go hunt. No further adjustments necessary?

This is nock tuning. It’s done before tuning is done. You need all arrows to match dynamic reaction before starting. I do this around 10 ft. In reality you can do this from 3 to 10 ft it dosent mater. And it’s done at one distance.

Remember we are nock tuning. Nothing else.

[enewman]

Traildust. I see this all the time. People trying to bareshaft tune and there all over the place. They just cannot get it.

So I ask are you shooting .006 shafts. If answer is yes then you must nock tune first.

If .003. Then we got to look at them. Because a .003 is a t.i.r. of .006. This arrow still needs nock tuning. So it may not be a must but I recommend it.

.001 arrows most of time no, but then it comes back to how round are the arrows. If they are shaped like an egg or elliptical then they to need nock tuning

For my builds this is what I recommend. For most people that are happy with 3 inch groups at 20 yards then it’s prolly a waist. But if you want 1 inch groups that are repeatable. Then it’s worth it.

You could just buy good arrows haha and not worry

[DRT]

I always bareshaft when I paper tune.

[Briar Friar]

Traildust. I see this all the time. People trying to bareshaft tune and there all over the place. They just cannot get it.

So I ask are you shooting .006 shafts. If answer is yes then you must nock tune first.

If .003. Then we got to look at them. Because a .003 is a t.i.r. of .006. This arrow still needs nock tuning. So it may not be a must but I recommend it.

.001 arrows most of time no, but then it comes back to how round are the arrows. If they are shaped like an egg or elliptical then they to need nock tuning

For my builds this is what I recommend. For most people that are happy with 3 inch groups at 20 yards then it’s prolly a waist. But if you want 1 inch groups that are repeatable. Then it’s worth it.

You could just buy good arrows haha and not worry

Awesome! Awesome! Awesome!

Ive been able to bareshaft and group...fletched and bareshaft to 20yds on my recurve but have crap paper tears...due to contact.

I corrected my contact but varying horizontal tears make me think I need to nock tune the .005 Aftermaths Im using.

[trophy_seeker]

Tag

[enewman]

stoof

how is it all coming

[Rat]

I've been experimenting with a new-to-me method; I'm sure it's been done before I've just never seen it.

Since most people don't have a pristine target for bareshaft tuning I came up with another method.

Bareshaft paper tuning.

I took enewman's advice and nock tuned through paper, with bareshafts, to get all the arrows making the same tear.

Then I tuned the bow to get a perfect bullet hole with bareshafts. It doesn't matter how the arrow ends up in the target, the paper reveals the flight characteristics of the arrow. As the arrow is bare, there is no correction to wonder about. IOW, it doesn't matter if you are 7 feet or 20 yards, the paper will be the same tear. If I had a right tear at 7 feet I also had a right tear at 10 yards; it was a longer tear, but it was still right.

This is not what you see in paper tuning with fletching many times. You may have a right tear at 7 feet but a bullet hole at 10 yards. Bareshafting through paper does not do this.

I need to play with this more to see if the results are consistent, but so far I like it.

Like I said, I'm not sure if it is new or not, but it is new to me.

[Stoof]

stoof

how is it all coming

I still got to get out to Rats house for some yoke tuning. It is visibly out of whack when I draw the bow. Until this is fixed I'm spinning my wheels.

[enewman]

I've been experimenting with a new-to-me method; I'm sure it's been done before I've just never seen it.

Since most people don't have a pristine target for bareshaft tuning I came up with another method.

Bareshaft paper tuning.

I took enewman's advice and nock tuned through paper, with bareshafts, to get all the arrows making the same tear.

Then I tuned the bow to get a perfect bullet hole with bareshafts. It doesn't matter how the arrow ends up in the target, the paper reveals the flight characteristics of the arrow. As the arrow is bare, there is no correction to wonder about. IOW, it doesn't matter if you are 7 feet or 20 yards, the paper will be the same tear. If I had a right tear at 7 feet I also had a right tear at 10 yards; it was a longer tear, but it was still right.

This is not what you see in paper tuning with fletching many times. You may have a right tear at 7 feet but a bullet hole at 10 yards. Bareshafting through paper does not do this.

I need to play with this more to see if the results are consistent, but so far I like it.

Like I said, I'm not sure if it is new or not, but it is new to me.

to me this is the best way.

[arateses]

I always paper tune my bow whenever I change arrows/point weight and sometimes just check it through paper to make sure it is tune. Why do I use this system?? Because I know it works. Ideally, the best way to be absolutely sure your bow is perfectly tuned is to shoot a bare shaft through paper (a shaft identical to your arrows, just minus flights). Assuming your arrows are matched well to your bow (as if they're not, they can cause more issues than help when trying to tune your bow), move your rest/nocking point (whichever needs moving) appropriately to get a bullet hole (with a bare shaft). Then shoot an arrow through it and you should see the same result. Do this from about 4m away. If you stand too far back (ie...10-15m+), the arrow vanes/feathers start taking control and 'correcting' the arrow flight anyway so you don't get a true idea.

On a seperate note, great post to put up here. It is of paramount importance to have your bow perfectly tuned to get the best penetration you can get out of it when it comes to shooting animals (particularly large ones). Also, a poorly tuned bow will perform poorly for target shooting as well. It is amazing how much an arrow flexes in flight and the last thing you need is for it to be flying wonky cause of a poor match (arrow spine for your poundage and drawlength) or ill tuned bow. Not only that, but a well tuned bow is a lot safer than a poorly tuned one.