Camper electric problem

[Robertt]

I go the lease and plug the camper in. Lights come on and I go to walk back to the camper. It flashes and all the electric goes out. I checked the breakers at the pole and in the camper. I check the fuses and they are fine. Stayed the night at a lease buddies house because I had my 14 year old son with me. The morning I check power from the pole to the other end of the 10 gauge cord. All is good. I check my battery and all is good. I go inside and I have no power at the breaker box where the cord comes in. I use an adapter from 20amp cord to 30amp camper cord. It was burned so I swapped it for another one. Do you think the camper cord could be fried at the connection? Any advise would be appreciated.

[BertramBass]

If you replaced the adapter, you might want to replace the plug next. My buddies older camper would fry the plug. Was it a puck style adapter?

[WTucker]

I don’t know much about RVs, but if the campers cord goes straight from the plug to the breaker box then it is possible that the plug got burnt up.

[bryan sandlin]

I am in for this answer.

[Grndchecker]

Does anything else work in your camper that's only electric? A/C, microwave, etc.. I just had to replace my converter due to a lightning strike.

[125Dad]

I would take a new cord cap for the cord on the trailer and new plug and replace both. One has a burnt connection.

[Robertt]

Thanks everyone. I am going to replace the male 30 amp plug on the camper, by a new 30 to 20 amp adapter and replace the 20 amp female on my 10 gauge extension cord. I hope that fixes it. Two hours to the lease and if it doesn't then drive back home. I am going to discuss with my RV dealer's service tech hoping for more wisdom before I head out.

[coker737]

Even without power you should still have lights running off the battery. if not the Battery converter may be shot. For the 110 VAC I advise taking a multimeter and check voltage at the trailer plug.

Most RV's need to have a battery to run. If your Deep Cycle is a few years old I would grab one to replace. Hope this helps

[125Dad]

Why not replace the 20 amp cord cap with a 30 amp so you don’t need the adapter?

[WTucker]

Why not replace the 20 amp cord cap with a 30 amp so you don’t need the adapter?

I was about to ask what the reason for the adapter was also.

[Shu]

The lights are 12 volt. They should work if the battery has voltage even if the trailer isn’t plugged in. Check fuses not breakers.

[coker737]

The lights are 12 volt. They should work if the battery has voltage even if the trailer isn’t plugged in. Check fuses not breakers.

Speaking of fuses, Mine has on at the battery. Something to look for

[careybirdwell]

What flashed? Sounds like a converter blew, but all other electrical stuff should work.
Also light should work (if battery is good) without electric.

On about 80% of electrical problem I occur when working on RV, is that they somehow burn the neutral wire, so you get a open in the neutral and it is generally at the junction box where your power cord connects to the wire that goes to the breaker box. Measure voltage from hot to ground & hot to neutral

Let me rephrase, about 80% of the time when you have voltage at plug

[Robertt]

I was about to ask what the reason for the adapter was also.

I am going to do that after thinking about it. Staying with the 20 amp was if I ever needed the cord for something other than the camper. I have power to the camper cord but nothing inside where the cord connects to the breaker box. I didn't check the 12v lights or water pump when I was there which was my mistake. Battery had 12.3 volts so I assume it is good since it is one year old. Any idea what size the inline fuse is coming off the battery?

[Briar Friar]

In for resolution.

Sounds like converter with good battery but no lights. Maybe a multifaceted problem. I prefer to kill all trailer breakers before plug in.

Good luck Robertt. Please let us know how it turns out.