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Sunday Night Longbow Paper Tuning

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    Sunday Night Longbow Paper Tuning

    Sarrels Yukon 38@28 RH. Im pulling 27 1/2” DL. Full length shafts...31”...Beman Centershot 600...7 gpi. 75 gr brass insert.

    Went from 125 gr head and 1/4” nock point to 175gr head and 1/4” nock point. Then 175gr head and 3/16” nock to 200gr head (total arrow wt 517-519gr) and 3/16” nock point.

    I reckon a walk back tune would be good tomorrow.
    Last edited by Briar Friar; 01-26-2021, 09:15 AM.

    #2
    Mo betta.

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      #3
      You are darn close at 175 and maybe past at 200. Unless you are just wanting to build arrow weight, I would tinker around the 175 mark. Another thing to keep in mind, just because it looks great on a paper tune at ten yards, it may be a lot different at thirty. I have some arrows flying like darts at twenty but when I go out to thirty they are nock right about three inches.

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        #4
        Originally posted by 60 Deluxe View Post
        You are darn close at 175 and maybe past at 200. Unless you are just wanting to build arrow weight, I would tinker around the 175 mark. Another thing to keep in mind, just because it looks great on a paper tune at ten yards, it may be a lot different at thirty. I have some arrows flying like darts at twenty but when I go out to thirty they are nock right about three inches.
        Thanks for the guidance. Shooting RH and showing stiff...nock/tears right...the easiest thing I know to do is add point weight...which seemed to be the remedy. I shot out to 20yd and when my form doesnt suck...the arrows seem to fly straight...a touch more arc than 175 heads. The 175 gn combo had a slight barrel roll at 10-20yds. I have some shafts fletched with shorter feathers and after setting some 75gn inserts...Ill test the 175gns again.

        I really didnt want to buy 200gn broadheads...but if thats what tunes good...so be it.

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          #5
          That is a lot of weight up front. I do the same thing, though. I'm surprised that you can get away with it using 600 spine. I've just about given up on using spine charts and calculators because they almost never work for me. I was playing with some aluminums the other day and the charts were calling for 125 grain heads on a full length shaft. They were nock right about six inches with that set up so I started adding point weight until there was good flight and the arrow pointed back to where I had been shooting from. It ended up about seventy five grains heavier than the chart said. I seldom use paper either. I can see when an arrow flies like a dart or when it kicks one way or the other prior to straightening out. My latest problem is that I have an arrow that flies perfect at twenty but shows stiff at thirty. When I get it right at thirty, it shows weak at twenty. I guess the answer is to tune for my hunting distance max and leave it alone.

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            #6
            Paper Tuning on a Thursday Night:
            As Ive settled into this bow and string has stretched...the nock point has moved back to 1/4” and 200gn points started a minor kick to the right...dynamically stiff arrow...me thinks. I have been noticing kick but thinking its my form. Since my draw weight is low...35-38#... I start looking for broadheads with particular criteria:
            1) 3:1 lengh to width ratio...or darn close...real close
            2) 200gn
            3) single bevel
            4) screw-in with no adapters
            ...I find I have no choices. Closest option...up in weight... is 250gn Brown Bear from Abowyer. I figured I might need to go install 18 gn aluminum inserts and remove 75 gn brass inserts. 200+75=275. 250+18=268. Darn close...worth a whirl....but in the simple words of a Gyrene JackofAll who once told me about problem solving “Start small”. So...before playing insert hokey pokey...I played point hokey pokey. 250+75=325 up front. They flew like darts up to 30 yds outside and kick was gone. Inside I go to paper...far right. And done. Im ordering some 250gn Abowyer Brown Bear single bevel 250gn 3:1ish screwin broadheads tomorrow.

            Now I need to decide...carbon or stainless steel.
            Last edited by Briar Friar; 01-26-2021, 09:15 AM.

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              #7
              That tune doesn't lie! But why not bump your brace height back up a 1/4" first and see what it does? That has been an eye opener in tuning for me this week.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Trumpkin View Post
                That tune doesn't lie! But why not bump your brace height back up a 1/4" first and see what it does? That has been an eye opener in tuning for me this week.
                Inadvertantly I did but at 1/8”... 7 1/2” to 7 5/8” whilst working the brace height because of string stretch. That might be how/why my nocking point adjusted itself. Its whisper quite and sighting is not far from where I was at 200gn. I imagine Ill have some more string stretch but hopefully not much. Im gonna run with it as it stands. I am not prepared to kill any medium sized game as of now...no broadheads in the quiver...only field points.

                Thanks for the suggestion Malachai.
                Last edited by Briar Friar; 08-31-2018, 10:25 AM. Reason: 8to7Spake

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