Getting a new engine for my 08 Silverado

[2050z]

Dang Timm, sorry to hear this. Have not been on line lately. Glad you were somewhat close to home.

If ya ever need a good mechanic I know one in Denison.

[muzzlebrake]

blackbearperformance.com, you would need to send them your pcm and have them tune it.

http://www.diablosport.com/sprint-ac...gement-module/ - this is just like the range device, plug in and drive, there does seem to be a slight battery drain with the range device but this one i am not sure.

http://www.diablosport.com/intune-i2...r-gm-vehicles/ - this one being the more expensive option, can disable the afm/dod and tune vehicle

the biggest problem with these engines is even the tune does not guarantee the afm lifters to not have issues. The lifters are the fail point since they have internal springs and seem to get clogged up over time and come apart. The only true way to rid the problem would be install regular lifters, and all the parts to support them ( about 1k in parts + labor) and turn the engine back into a true V8, you would also have to tune the PCM to rid the afm/dod once this is done. If and when this happens to my wife's tahoe, I will go this route. A good friend of mine does this conversion, and has done it to several vehicles with no issues after the conversion. It essentially converts the newer engines with afm/dod back to true V8 motors.

And believe it or not better fuel economy and more power everywhere. blame it all on the EPA mandates.

[8pointer]

Where did you get yours done at? Mine is an 09 Z71 as well....

I ended up having to get it done at the chevy dealership in San Angelo. I didn't want to have it towed to San Antonio. It happened on a trip to the deer lease. I called several mechanics in town. I did not want to go the junkyard route or the rebuild. I decided to go with the gmc warranty that the dealership offered, which is 3 years 100k miles.

I will probably break down and buy a new truck in 2018

[2050z]

I ended up having to get it done at the chevy dealership in San Angelo. I didn't want to have it towed to San Antonio. It happened on a trip to the deer lease. I called several mechanics in town. I did not want to go the junkyard route or the rebuild. I decided to go with the gmc warranty that the dealership offered, which is 3 years 100k miles.

I will probably break down and buy a new truck in 2018

We called GM for a motor and they told us it was a 3 year / 100,000 warranty, but it was a rebuild. The kicker was they did not fix the issue on the rebuild.

[MD2TX]

My 08 started using about 2 quarts every 2500 miles. That truck was maintained religiously.. kinda upset me. traded it in immediately after I started researching it and hearing all the horror stories. Neighbor is a mechanic at a GMC dealer. He said if the oil consumption from the stuck piston rings don't get ya the AFM lifters collapsing or rounded cam will.. Sucks because the old generation 5.3 was a great engine.

[muzzlebrake]

The original 5.3L Gen III engine was virtually bullet proof. It lasted way too long therefore Engineered Failure came about. GM never wanted gas vehicles to last for 300K miles. Hurts their sales. That and EPA mandates for fuel economy. GM did not do themselves a favor by adding AFM and VVT since they were way behind on technology for this. AFM and VVT has really hurt the reputation of that motor. European cars have perfected VVT adn AFM to a much better degree but they still have reliability issues. Too many moving parts I guess. GM could have just went with a smaller boosted or turbo'd motor and accomplished the same thing in fuel economy as well as maintaining necessary power kinda like Ford did with the eco boost. Ford beat GM to the front on this one although they still had their share of failure with the eco-boost system.

Here's some of what made that GEN III engine so good--
* 4.40-inch bore centers (like the original small-block)
* Six-bolt, cross-bolted main bearing caps
* Center main thrust bearing
* 9.24-inch deck height
* Four-bolt-per-cylinder head bolt pattern
* 0.842-inch lifter bores
* Distributorless, coil-near-plug ignition system

Although performance car engines have typically carried "LS" designations, truck engines built on this platform have been dubbed Vortec. In the beginning, they were generally distinguished by iron cylinder blocks and were offered in smaller displacements than car engines. Interestingly, a 5.7L Vortec "LS" engine has never been offered. Here's a quick rundown of the previous and current-production LS truck engines:
* 4.8L - The smallest-displacement LS engine (293 cu in); it uses an iron block with 3.78-inch bores and aluminum heads.
* 5.3L - The most common LS truck engine (327 cu in), it uses the same iron block with 3.78-inch bores as the 4.8L, but with a longer stroke , (3.62-inch)crank. Later versions equipped for Active Fuel Management. Manufactured with iron and aluminum cylinder blocks.
* 6.0L - Used primarily in 3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks, the 6.0L (364 cu in) uses an iron block (LY6) or aluminum block (L76) and aluminum heads, with provisions for Active Fuel Management; some equipped with variable valve timing.
* 6.2L - Commonly referred to by its L92 engine code, the 6.2L (376 cu in) engine uses an aluminum block and heads, and incorporates advanced technology including variable valve timing. The L92 is used primarily as a high-performance engine for the Cadillac Escalade and GMC Yukon Denali.

The 5.3L engine in the 2002 thru 2006 trucks could be easily modified at very little cost to produce around 420 bhp and over 400 ft lbs torque. Taint bad for a small block 327 naturally aspirated motor that would get great fuel economy. We call them Hemi Killers.

[MQ32Shooter]

Sorry to hear the it quit on ya Timm. I had the same engine in my 08 Z-71. Started burning oil at about 75K. Started fouling my plugs so badly, I finally got rid of it and bought a Titan. Got 131K on it and never had one problem. Had the plugs changed at 120K and the mechanic said all of the plugs still looked perfect. I was a Chevy man all of my life. Buy my last two Z-71's did not get past 116K before I unloaded them. Never was a fan of Jap trucks until I owned the Titan. I'm staying with them now.

[2050z]

Sorry to hear the it quit on ya Timm. I had the same engine in my 08 Z-71. Started burning oil at about 75K. Started fouling my plugs so badly, I finally got rid of it and bought a Titan. Got 131K on it and never had one problem. Had the plugs changed at 120K and the mechanic said all of the plugs still looked perfect. I was a Chevy man all of my life. Buy my last two Z-71's did not get past 116K before I unloaded them. Never was a fan of Jap trucks until I owned the Titan. I'm staying with them now.

I had looked a the Titan several times. Very nice trucks. I considered the Ford Eco boost as my next truck as well. Truck should be ready this Friday. Jasper claims in their video to have resolve the AFM issue by changing out the faulty lifter with a new and designed AFM lifter.

[MQ32Shooter]

I had looked a the Titan several times. Very nice trucks. I considered the Ford Eco boost as my next truck as well. Truck should be ready this Friday. Jasper claims in their video to have resolve the AFM issue by changing out the faulty lifter with a new and designed AFM lifter.

That's certainly good news. I loved the way my Z's road compared to the Titan. Z's rode like the wife's Lexus, Titan rides like a buckboard.

[2050z]

Truck should be ready Monday

[muzzlebrake]

I had looked a the Titan several times. Very nice trucks. I considered the Ford Eco boost as my next truck as well. Truck should be ready this Friday. Jasper claims in their video to have resolve the AFM issue by changing out the faulty lifter with a new and designed AFM lifter.

A lifter change will not stop the oil burning. It may stop the lifter failure by installing a lifter with travel limiter in it but it's not going to stop the oil coming back up across the rings. Remember that when those cylinders shut off the cylinder then becomes just an air pump with no combustion pressure to keep the rings expanded and scrap the oil down. Even the compression ring scraps oil during the power stroke. The crankcase pressure will cause the oil to blow by the rings and then out thru the exhaust valve and on down to the catalytic converter which over time can get clogged too. It starts off slow but as the rings get more and more carbon built up behind them, oil burning gets worse.
It can start happening at 20k miles or at 75k miles but sooner or later it will happen.
The other place GM engines start to use oil is at the valve seals. This is usually at high mileage where over time the valve seals have become hard and worn by the constant up/down of the valve stem. A valve job with Viton replacement seals can usually fix this. Ever notice that after sitting over night and when you first crank it up the next morning a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust. That's most likely worn valve seals where the oil sitting on top of the valve stem seal drains down to the top of the valve guide as the engine cools and parts shrink and when it's started cold it sucks the oil down into the cylinder and burns it. It's not a lot but can amount to a quart every 500 to 1000 miles and then gets worse.

[2050z]

A lifter change will not stop the oil burning. It may stop the lifter failure by installing a lifter with travel limiter in it but it's not going to stop the oil coming back up across the rings. Remember that when those cylinders shut off the cylinder then becomes just an air pump with no combustion pressure to keep the rings expanded and scrap the oil down. Even the compression ring scraps oil during the power stroke. The crankcase pressure will cause the oil to blow by the rings and then out thru the exhaust valve and on down to the catalytic converter which over time can get clogged too. It starts off slow but as the rings get more and more carbon built up behind them, oil burning gets worse.
It can start happening at 20k miles or at 75k miles but sooner or later it will happen.
The other place GM engines start to use oil is at the valve seals. This is usually at high mileage where over time the valve seals have become hard and worn by the constant up/down of the valve stem. A valve job with Viton replacement seals can usually fix this. Ever notice that after sitting over night and when you first crank it up the next morning a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust. That's most likely worn valve seals where the oil sitting on top of the valve stem seal drains down to the top of the valve guide as the engine cools and parts shrink and when it's started cold it sucks the oil down into the cylinder and burns it. It's not a lot but can amount to a quart every 500 to 1000 miles and then gets worse.

I am still planning on getting the diablo tuner and turning off the AFM

[muzzlebrake]

I am still planning on getting the diablo tuner and turning off the AFM

You won't regret it. Your fuel mileage should improve too. Maybe as much as 2 mpg.

[Mike D]

You won't regret it. Your fuel mileage should improve too. Maybe as much as 2 mpg.

I wouldn't count on it. I saw ZERO mileage gains when I put a Diablo on my 2004.

But my main reason for getting it was to adjust shift points and speedometer since the tires were slightly larger than stock. It did make the throttle response more snappy which was nice.


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[2050z]

Truck is ready!!